Talk About Travel: Transcript Hosted by Craig Stoltz Washington Post Travel Editor Monday, March 15, 1999

Craig Stoltz The Washington Post

Travel Editors: Hi, everyone, and welcome to this week's online travel chat. In yesterday's Travel section, intrepid outdoorsman (and frequent contributor) John Briley wrote about his recent trip through southern Africa on the Zambezi River, a story that asked the question, Can a mild-mannered city dude survive intact on a wet-and-wild raft trip through the parched terrain of southern Africa? (Happily, yes.) We also had a story about a trip that took maybe even more guts -- taking a baby to Europe. Maybe some of you who've done this and lived to tell the tale can share your success strategies on schlepping an infant abroad -- or tell us what you now realize you should've done differently.

Alas, Travel editor Craig Stoltz can't be with us this week, but we've got a rowdy assortment of travel editors and reporters hanging around our keyboard, eager to respond to your questions: John Deiner, resident kitsch-meister and expert in budget travel (including, most recently, affordable spas); Carolyn Spencer Brown, who covers the cruise beat, and who's just back from Miami and SeaTrade, the cruise industry's annual state-of-the-cruise conference; Roger Piantadosi, editor of the Wednesday Escapes page in Style, who's been prowling the Virginia countryside of late; our European expert Gary Lee, who just flew in from Berlin, and boy are his arms tired; and me, deputy Travel editor K.C. Summers, just back from a weekend in New York (specifically, Brooklyn Heights). And John Briley is on standby for those of you with questions on Africa.

Meanwhile, in Union Square there are a couple of reasonably priced hotels in the Joie de Vivre chain, says our hotel expert Gary Lee. They are theme hotels with a funky bent. The nicest two where Gary's stayed: the Rex, which has a literary theme; and the Bijou, which has a movie theme and shows films made in San Francisco nightly. The Bijou rented a double $89 a night; the Rex was more like $150 a night. Check the 1-800 operator for the Joie de Vivre number.

arlington, va: Do you think Africa is a good place for a honeymoon, and also, what part would you suggest visiting if I were to ever go there?

Travel Editors: John Briley, just back from a safari in Southern Africa, says: Not really, unless you're a hard-core couple who loves to hike and rough it. The landscape is barren and vast and thee's a lot of driving around -- not very romantic. But the coast of South Africa and the Garden Route along the Indian Ocean coast is more immediately beautiful, and Kruger National Park is a great destination. Also, Southern South Africa has quaint towns and more of a more romantic feel.

Fairfax, VA: I'm considering travel to Peru and Ecuador this summer. How's the political situation there? Should we worry?

Travel Editors: Roger Piantadosi, who visited Peru last year, says: Go. But check with the State Department. Peru's new five-year-old government is tourist-sensitive and has made many improvements in the accessibility of Lima itself. And in the countryside there have been very few incidents in the past six or seven years of either terrorism or serious crime. But it really does pay to be careful: There are a lot of petty criminals, especially in villages and cities along the Amazon and the Andes. ALWAYS check with the State Department for up-to-the-minute warnings. Sorry I don't have current info on Ecuador, but you can start with the State Department.

Kenosha, WI: We're thinking of going to Hawaii later this year, for our first, and maybe only, trip there. We're in our early fifties, love nature, just the two of us. Your suggestions? What about a cruise?

Travel Editors: Gosh, where to start. The Kona Coast on the Big Island of Hawaii is legendarily beautiful and not to be missed, with coffee plantations, cattle ranches, lava formations, Volcanoes National Park, pounding surf etc. For nature lover, John Deiner recommends Kauai (the Garden Island: "It has it all: lush rain forests on the north coast, desert on the south, and a canyon that rivals the Grand Canyon in the middle. Just beware of the time of year you go. Time it wrong and you'll see why it's the rainiest spot on the globe. That would be our winter."
Cruise reporter Carolyn Spencer Brown says: "If you want a cruise, the regular cruises are done by American Hawaii, an American cruise line that has one ship dedicated to the islands. It's an old ship, Grace Kelly transported her bridesmaids to her wedding on it."
The only problem with taking a cruise, though, is that you don't get to see too much ofthe islands. You see snippets but don't get the big picture.

Elmira, New York : My wife and I are going to Paris for our 5th anniversary. We will be there for 12 days in mid May. Other than Paris and Versailles, can you suggest three day trips outside the village Lutece?

Travel Editors: Gary Lee, who has an apartment in Paris and visits several times a year, enthusiastically recommends the following day trips out of Paris:
Giverny, about 45 minutes west of Paris, which is home to the Monet museum and a couple of other interesting sights; Chartres, which has a 12th-century cathedral including the oldest stained-glass in Europe; and for a more adventuresome option, take the train to Mont St. Michel, the towering cathedral on the coast of Brittany. The trip takes two hours on the express train from the railway station Montparnasse in Paris.

Arlington, VA: In Europe, particularly France, do hotels rent by the room regardless of the number of people or do they do the single or double bit that we have in the US?

Travel Editors: In almost all of Europe, hotel rooms are rented according to the number of people who stay in them. That is particularly true in France. Double rooms cost on average $30 more a night than single rooms, and so on. That is partially the case because breakfast is often included in the room price.

Baltimore, MD: I'm starting to plan a trip to Italy in October. I like to travel alone but this would be my first trip to Europe by myself...My friends say as a single woman I'm nuts!...are the Italian men as bad as they say? Am I really going to be putting myself at risk? I just hate traveling with a tour group as I like to set my own schedule...

Travel Editors: You're not nuts. Carolyn Brown recently went to Venice, Milan, Florence and Lucca on her own, and had a great time. And never got pinched. But you can also go and pick up guys every night -- it all depends on what signals you send out. She recommends taking a book everywhere you go -- that way, if somebody's bothering you, you can pretend you're reading and they'll go away. Take the usual safety precautins you'd take anywhere, but Italy's a great place to go because there's so much to see and do. Also, a nighttime recommendation: look for restaurants that seat people communally -- you'll meet people that way, and won't have to dine alone.

McLean, VA: My husband and I would like to travel to a Caribbean island with our 10 month old daughter. We both like to scuba dive and have often thought about using hotel babysitters while we go on a dive. I, however, am very leary of leaving her with strangers - especially while we're out of the country. Do you have any recommendations?

Travel Editors: We can give you some scuba tips, but we'll have to turn to our readers for tips on hotel babysitters. The island of Bonaire specializes in sucba for divers at all levels. Almost all the hotels have packages and we're sure there are niche hotels for families needing babysitters. Also good for scuba: Turks and Caicos and Grand Cayman (although the latter tends to be for more serious divers with some deep-sea experience).

Washington, DC: I'm visiting Moscow in May and would like to include St. Petersburg as well -- is train an easy and cheap way to travel between the cities? What about getting to Helsinki from St. Petersburg? Is there a ferry?

Travel Editors: Gary Lee, The Post's former Moscow correspondent, says: The easiest and cheapest and most fun way to travel between Moscow and St. Petersburg is by overnight train. There is alao regular ferry service between Helsinki and St. Pete. A good travel agent should have info about both. By the way, I recommend spending more time in Petersburg and less in Moscow: The former is by far the more charming city.

Arlington, Va: My friend and I are interested in climbing Kilimanjaro. How safe is this for two women to do? And also, how expensive? Is there a particular time of year in which it is better weather wise to climb, as well as less expensive?

Thanks. This is a very helpful/informative feature.

Travel Editors: None of us has dared to do this. Anyone out there?

Clarion PA: I am interestedf in rentimg a cabin on a lake or river in Ontario, but have no idea how to locate and evaluate properties. I'd like peace, quiet, and a rowboat. Any suggestions?

Travel Editors: Carolyn Brown says one of the nicest river destinations she's ever traveled to is Lake Rideau, just outside of Ottawa. Basically there aren't very many hotels, so you rent cottages or houses. It's blissfully peaceful: charming little towns, lots of artists, and the benefit of the exchange rate with the Canadian dollar.

St. Joseph, Mo.: My husband and I would like to go to London in the fall, particularly October. What are some off-the-beaten-path things to do there?

Travel Editors: How you been, St. Joe? Crown jewsls not good enough for you, eh? Consider exploring Islington, a trendy area for shopping and eating in the northern part of the city. Restaurants tend to be cheaper and nightlife somewhat livelier and younger. Secondly, there are all kinds of offbeat walking tours such as the intriguing aspects of espionage in London, which are featured regularly in the weekly Time Out, available at London newsstands.
Or try the crafts and antique markets in Greenwich on the weekends. If you're in season, you can sail down the Thames to get there.
And see our upcoming story on London's independent pubs, coming up next Sunday.
Finally, in Brixton there's a colorful open-air market where live goats and chickens and other offbeat souvenirs are offered for sale. Check your airline for carryon regulations.

Arlington, VA: Hi. I have a comment on Africa. I agree that the subsaharan area probably isn't so great for a honeymoon -- but North Africa is really nice. Tunisia, for instance, is a small, easily navigable country with friendly residents, beautiful beaches, astonishing ruins (Carthage, Roman/Phoenician/Byzantine stuff, and shipwrecks), and lovely hotels. Plus, it's a real seat of entertainment and culture: music, cinema, theater, etc.

Travel Editors: Thanks, Arlington. Anyone else out there with more African tips?

Washington DC: I plan to travel to Europe within the next year (just out of college). How much do you think I would need to get by for 2/3months - my trip would definitely be small budget, i.e., staying in hostels, cheap hotels, etc.

Travel Editors: If you stick to the youth hostel/railpass route, traveling on the very strictest of budgets, you should allow about $500 a month. That would accommodate a decent Eurailpass or bus travel and a room and board in either cheap pensiones or hostels. One strong recommendation: try to do as much advance planning as possible, because the cheapest places book up months in advance. Sometimes it works out cheaper to eat in inexpensive restaurants than to buy food and cook it in the hostels: Food in stores tends to cost at least twice what it does in the States, while many inexpensive restaurants offer great deals, particularly at lunchtime.

Vienna VA: Not a question-but a note on traveling with infants. We took our 7 month old to London, and Scotland and survived quite well. It helped having some family and friends along and also lining up a terrific London baby sitter before the trip. We employed her about 6 hours per day in London, so we could sightsee some days w/o my daughter and dine out for several nights. Worse part was the long flight back.

Travel Editors: We may have been sitting a row up from you. Thanks, Vienna. But details, please: How'd you connect with the London babysitter?

fairfax,va: Any suggestions for a medium priced, 7 to 10 day tour cruise ships departing from Venice,Italy traveling down the coast and over to Greek Islands for a couple of fifty-somethings that have never been on a cruise? Also what would be the best time of the year to plan on going?

Travel Editors: Carolyn Brown says: This summer, the Mediterranean is the hottest cruise destination imaginaable. A lot of ships are sold out, but a couple of recommendations: Celebrity is an up-market, mid-priced line sailing in Europe for the first time. And Holland America has a nice range of ships and itineraies in the Mediterranean. It's a great first-timer's cruise -- interesting ports, and the lines are putting on newer ships which means you get great amenities like balconies et al.

Cleveland, Ohio: I'm considering a trip to Berlin, and I'm wondering if Gary Lee can tell me which part of town to stay in while I'm there. I don't want to spend more than $150 per night, but I want to stay in a happening part of town.

Travel Editors: Gary Lee has a piece coming up on just this subject, and he scoops himself here: The hottest part of the city, he says, is called Mitte, and there's a good, inexpensive hotel there called the Taunus. In the western part of the city, which is more fashionable, a good option would be the Savoy. The Taunus costs about $90 a night, double; the Savoy, about $140.

Frederick, Md.: I'm considering a trip to New York soon, but I'd like to take the subway for the first time. I've only taken cabs previously to get around. Do you have any suggestions?

Travel Editors: Just do it. It's fun, cheap ($1.50 per ride), much quicker than cabs. It's safe, with people and transit officials in abundance. And New Yorkers are, despite their bad rap, friendly and helpful.

Washington DC: I would be grateful if you could follow up your suggestion of renting a place on the Rideau Lake with ideas on how to locate a rental. I too have wanted to rent a cottage in the area but the Ottawa Citizen does not have many listings for cottages. Also, I will be visiting New York City next week with three young girls (5, 6, and 8)--any tips on things to do?

Travel Editors: A good place to start is the web side www.travelinx.com, which is the Ontario Tourism Office. It can link you to info on rentals.
As for kids in NYC, there are lots of obvious suspects: The Circle Line boat tour is a must for an introduction to the city. Alternately, the Staten Island Ferry is cheap and has a gorgeous view of Manhattan. And there's Broadway of course: take them to the Lion King or Annie Get Your Gun. Go rollerblading in Central Park. South Street Seaport has the very same shops that your kids like at home, but in a more exotic setting. And there's always the Statue of Liberty.

Washington DC: More on Africa--having spent a couple of weeks this past summer on safari in Kenya and Tanzania, I think it could be a fabulous place for a honeymoon. Especially if you stay in the nicer tented camps--like luxury hotel rooms with canvas walls. They're very comfortable and romantic. Also, although we didn't do it, you could add on the beaches in Zanzibar or at Kipungami Bay (near Lamu).

Travel Editors: Thanks, D.C.

Laurel, Maryland: A few weeks ago, you guys did a story about airline Web sites. What about Amtrak's site? Is it any good, compared to the airlines?

Travel Editors: Amtrak's site (www.amtrak.com) was recently redone, and works well (if slowly) for finding fares and also for booking trips. They have a nice search feature that lets you find a destination if you're not quite sure of the name (it will find close matches if you don't get it exactly right). The problem is the fares -- compared to the airlines, you're not gonna save any money. Outside of the Northeast and California coastal corridors, where prices are close to being competitive, you really have to love train travel.

Timonium, MD: I'd like to take a Caribbean cruise with historic ports of call.

When is the best time to go, i.e. less expensive time.

What cruise lines do you recommend, and what from your own experiences would be the most enjoyable itineraries?

Travel Editors: The thing to know about Caribbean itineraries, says Carolyn Brown, is that cruise lines design them to incorporate one historic stop, one shopping shop, and one beach stop. For example, San Juan is a staple for historic ports. Remember that because of hurricanes etc, a lot of history gets wipedout. Barbados is good for old sugar plantations. As for best time to go: normally that's summer, but this year cruise lines are pulling a lot of their ships out of the Caribbean for Europe. So the best time will be after spring break season and during, ahem, hurricane season.

Bethesda, Maryland: I'm going to South Africa next summer. We're going to Cape Town mainly but want to round out our itinerary. Any suggestions? Any safety problems for tourists?

Travel Editors: Roger Piantadosi visited South AFrica last year -- watch for his upcoming story. From Cape Town, he says there are many trips to be taken either as day trips or overnighters. Starting in wine country (east of Table Mountain), and continuing along the south coast, you can take the famous Garden Route to what the tourism people are calling the Wild Coast. The East Coast of South Africa is rural and astonishingly beautiful, plus, unlike the Atlantic Ocean off the coast of Cape Town, you can swim or surf in it. From March to October, the south and east coasts are great places to see southern right whales.

Vienna, VA: I've been wondering about traveling in Europe with an infant or toddler. Are car seats required, are they available with rentals, or is it advisable to BYO? Specifically, I'm thinking of visiting England, the Netherlands, Austria, Germany, or Italy. Do rental cars in these countries generally have seat belts in the back seat?

Travel Editors: Check with your rental car agency -- they all have different policies. And get it in writing! And on that note, it's time to sign off. Thanks for all your comments and questions, and we'll see you here next week. Coming up in Sunday's Travel section: a trip to Crete, London's independent pub scene, and a tour of Philadephia's more than 2,000 murals.