Talk About Travel: Transcript Hosted by Craig Stoltz Washington Post Travel Editor Monday, March 22, 1999

Craig Stoltz The Washington Post

Bethesda, MD: Is it best to use frequent flier miles right away or save the mileage for an emergency or another situation when there isn't much time to plan? Or are the miles worth the upgrades on long, transcontinental or transatlantic flights?

Craig Stoltz: Actually, saving frequent flier miles "until you really need them" is a disaster in the making. Most of the popular routes have far fewer seats set aside for FF rewards than there is demand. Consquently, most FF seats are gone shortly after they become available (about a year in advance of the flight, for many airlines). The only exception is if your flight is to someplace fairly obscure (I fly just about every year to Lansing, Michigan, and that route is not hotly sought after). Generally the rule in disposing of FF miles is: Plan as far in advance as possible, and nail down the seats as soon as they come onto the market. As for upgrades, a lot depends, frankly, on your personal habits and preferences. I've flown coast-to-coast dozens of times in coach, and it's usually bearable. If I were a very tall or big or fidgety person, I'd probably feel differently and use FF miles to upgrade. Also, for very long flights--overseas--I'd seriously consider upgrading.

BTW, most serious FF tweaks say that if the ticket you're seeking costs under $200, don't use FF miles for it--that you've paid more for those miles than you'll get back in value. Save the miles for the more expensive flights.

Washington, DC: I'll be in Los Angeles in June and was thinking of spending a few days on Catalina Island. Do you have any impressions of Catalina? Is it really as good an escape from So. Cal as they claim?

Craig Stoltz: John Deiner of our staff was at Catalina Island a few years ago, and says: "Great time. But the ferry ride's pretty long, and if you get the least bit seasick be sure to take your Dramamine. Rent a bike; there's lots of little roads and things to visit (the Wrigley-of-chewing-gum-fame mansion), little shops, etc." He went in September, and it was in the mid-70s and beautiful. You can rent mopeds too, if you're less active a traveler.

The only negative I've heard, is that yes, it's a great way to escape L.A., but in high travel season, and on weekends, you'll be joined by many others who are seeking the same escape. If you can arrange for a weekday trip that would be best. And if you're staying overnight, be sure to call ahead to make accommodation arrangements. In fact, do it today.

Fairfax, VA: We're going to Sandals in Jamaica the first week of June for our honeymoon. I know they say everything is included but I'm still suspicious about surprises. Are there any hidden costs we should keep an eye out for?

Craig Stoltz: I've never heard a complaint about Sandals' gouging with extras (though I hear that quite a bit about cruise lines). The things to look out for are site-seeing trips and excursions, which are not included in the price, and some equipment (water sports) rentals. Food and beverage should carry few surprises. Any other Sandals visitors out there know differently?

Arlington, Va: What are the biggest travel bargains in the summer? I don't want to do the typical beach vacation, but Europe is too expensive and crowded in the summer. Can you think of any interesting locations for which our summer is the off season?

Thanks.

Craig Stoltz: I'm a big fan of going to mountain resorts--ski resorts--in summer. Yes, most of them make noise about being "four season," but summer's the down time and they are often looking for visitors. I've been to Vail in June and, nearby, to Wintergreen in July. I'd do both again in a minute. Many Canadian resorts also are at their best in summer, though they tend to have more crowds than their U.S. counterparts. Another unbeaten-track option: The beaches of, yes, the Great Lakes. Look at Michigan's western coast, facing Lake Michigan. It's cool, clean and way off most folks' summer itineraries.

Other folks out there have not-the-beach summer ideas?

Arlington, VA: Are you familiar with Paradise Island in The Bahamas and all the new renovations they just completed at the resort? I hear it's spectacular.

Craig Stoltz: No personal experience, though I've talked to a few folks who have been there. The consensus: If you like Las Vegas, you'll like Paradise Island.

washington, dc: Re using ATM's in Europe: The exchange rate is determined by the bank whose ATM you use, but how can I know which bank has the best rate? Could I get stuck paying a higher rate at an ATM than I would to convert travelers' checks from dollars to Italian lire??

Craig Stoltz: The travel section's Answer Lady, Carol Sottili, took this one on a few weeks ago (on our Web site, to go to Travel Q&A and search the Q's with the keyword ATM). Her findings: Nearly all banks abide by a very close range of exchange rates--you'll find very few important variations. It's very rare that the "worst" ATM will cost you more than a typical retail currency or traveler's check conversion.

Washington, DC: I am a well-traveled educator who is taking students abroad for the first time. Can anyone help with ideas, tips, resources? Thanks.

Craig Stoltz: I turn this one over to our vast clicking audience. Any veteran chaperones out there?

Riverdale, MD: I would like to find a gay-friendly or gay-owned B&B in the Virginia or West Virginia mountains, with a river overlook and nearby hiking. Heard of any, or know of any resources for this overlooked segment of the Post's travel section readership?

Craig Stoltz: Says Gary Lee, the staff's expert on gay-friendly places: "No. Neither state has a reputation for being particularly gay-friendly." He says he's never heard of any places specifically. But: You may want to check out the Sheperdstown area; it's a university town a fairly progressive one by regional standards.

Washington, DC: I'm going to Rome for a week and would like to experience at least some of the more "off the beaten path" attractions. Any suggestions?

Craig Stoltz: We will soon be running a sensational piece about the mosaics in Rome (Ravenna is the supposed haven of mosaics, but our correspondent returned with some sensational images and ideas). Anybody else have less-obvious suggestions on Rome?

Rosslyn, VA: I am just wondering how to find out if a flight consolidator is above-board. Fantasy Travel in New Jersey is offering a $500 round trip flight to Rome this summer and it seems too good to believe. How can I be sure that they are for real?
Thanks!

Craig Stoltz: I have heard nothing good or bad about Fantasy Travel. Absolutely contact the N.J. BBB (or the city it claims as a home) to see if there are complaints. And you can use the Web: Look up Fantasy Travel using both a search engine (I like Infoseek or Hotbot) and Deja News (dejanews.com), which lets you comb newsgroups (chat groups) for use of the name. Since the term "fantasy" may bring about some unwanted hits, I'd pair it with something like "Fantasy Travel" + "fraud" or + "lawsuit" to see if there's the kind of talk you fear.

To repeat what we always do: ALWAYS PAY AN AIRFARE CONSOLIDATOR WITH A CREDIT CARD. It gives you an extra layer or protection.

And finally: Try other, local or national consolidators, and tell them about the fare you found. If others can't come close, call Fantasy and ask them how they can do it. There might indeed be something fishy going on.

McLean, VA: For the traveler taking students abroad, I highly recommend London. It's a major city with great history and plenty to do that will keep students occupied. English speaking countries is also very helpful. As far as resources, I recommend the "Let's Go" publications. They're written by Harvard students who travel on very low budgets.

Craig Stoltz: Thanks, McLean.

Prince William, VA: First, I love your chat Craig and I look forward to the travel section every Sunday.

My question is, I'm organizing a sort of reunion trip for my high school friends. We are still young (mid 20's) and want to go somewhere fun, with plenty to do. South Beach in Miami comes to mind. Any suggestions along those lines?

Craig Stoltz: Think simple flattery will get you to the front of the question line? Of course it will.

Yes, South Beach can be a blast. And you can always take off for that mythic drive down U.S. 1 to the Keys, which offer a range of experiences from deep sea fishing with some frighteningly salty folks to the good-nature mayhem of Key West.

South Beach may be expensive, though. If it's too much for your blood, consider what used to be known as the "Redneck Riveriera"--the beaches along the Fla. Panhandle. There's some young and frisky action in Panama City (MTV does spring break there every year), and plenty of wide, open beach--for about half of what you'll pay in Miami.

McLean, VA: For the Catalina visitor, there are two towns on the island. The one most people describe is Avalon, with the bars and shops and Wrigley mansion. The less-visited town is Two Harbors (maybe Twin Harbors?). It's more of a camping atmosphere, with one general store, camping, and some great hiking. If you are after a more rustic Catalina experience, try that.

Craig Stoltz: Boy, McLean is full of helpful clicksters today!

Washingon D: Re WVA mtns --Don't know how gay friendly they might be, but we liked the cabins at Cheat River Lodge outside Elkins. Hot tubs on back deck overlooking and just feet from river. All of George Washington National Forest and other nearby sites for hiking, etc. Food was good also at Lodge restaurant several years ago. www.cheatriver.com or similar I believe

Craig Stoltz: Thanks, D (C, I suspect). Yes, the GW National Forest is a treasure, often overlooked by folks planning getaways. The deck sounds great.

BOWIE, MD: We are 9 couples in search of a resort that offers both golf and a spa that is within 4 hours driving distance of both New york city and washington D.C. We are looking to spend under $300 a night for accomodations.

Craig Stoltz: I'd look at Nemacolin Woods, near Pittsburg and Hidden Valley, in central Pennsylvania. Nemacolin's a bit tonier, of the two. Any other ideas out there? I'm not familiar with resorts in the Philly area, but there must be some good ones. . . .

Washington, D.C.: My fiancee and I are getting married in October. We are in our mid-20s and both like history, walking, being near the water and eating at outside cafes. Do you think Charleston would be a good place for a honeymoon that time of year?

Craig Stoltz: You've answered your own question--Charlestown is the perfect match. The other places I could nominate are Providence, R.I. (fall weather, but great history, charm and those "cottages"!), Wilmington, N.C. (the growing TV and movie industry there makes for interesting touring), and, in Florida, St. Augustine (though much tackiness nearby).

Still, I'd go with Charlestown. Anybody else have ideas for this couple?

St. Joseph, Mo.: I don't know how well known this is, but two of the neatest things we did in Rome was touring the Scavi underneath St. Peter's --- that's the graves of popes, saints and other holy types --- and climbing to the top of the dome on St. Peter's. You can see the entire city. The scavi is not for the clausterphobic, and the St. Peter's dome trip is not for anyone who isn't in the mood to climb a lot of stairs. We spent much, much time walking and esp. enjoyed the Aventini section of Rome, which had an orange grove in one area. BUT please note the entire city is under scaffolding right now and it makes viewing some things difficult. The Wall St. Journal's weekend section had a story on it Friday. Get up early and walk a lot --- the city coming to life under the sunrise is fascinating.

Craig Stoltz: I know we can always count on wisdom from St. Joseph, Mo.

Washington, D.C.: Because of my job the only time that I am able to take a vacation is in August. Are there any places in Europe that are reasonably priced in the summer?

Craig Stoltz: Eastern Europe is always cheaper than Western, but I don't think there's any more of a seasonal discount in most places than you'll find in the west. Warsaw, Krakow, Prague (of course)--all highly recommended by our authors.

Any clickers know of good summer values in Europe?

Alexandria, VA: For the 9 couples looking for a resort close to D.C. and N.Y., I would say anywhere in the Poconos would be ideal. Perfect distance for both, several resorts and there is plenty to do.

Craig Stoltz: Thanks, Alexandria.

Fairfax, VA: I don't hear of too many families with kids (teens) traveling to Spain. Is this a good family friendly country. Any suggestions of where to go?

Craig Stoltz: We'll find out together this summer. I'm planning to go with my wife and two boys, 9 and 7. I've always wanted to go to Barcelona, and we're working on the rest of our itinerary. I have no idea whether it's kid-friendly in the way Italy and (non-Paris) France are said to be. Anybody out there help us?

BTW, I don't know if our itinerary can accommodate it, but our boys *really* want to go to Morocco.

Bethesda, MD: To the Honeymooners:
Charleston is the place for you. Next to San Francisco, it is my favorite place - lovely B& Bs, great food, easy to walk/bike around, friendly natives and the water should still be warm then. Don't miss the beach at Kiawah Island. Even if you don't stay there, it has a public beach. And Charleston has terrific barbrcue.
What more could you ask for?

Craig Stoltz: Another vote for Charleston. Thanks, Bethesda.

Chevy Chase, MD: Hi Craig,

I'd like to take a Carribean island vacation during late August or Early September. I'm aware that Aruba, Curacao and Bonaire are outside the hurrican belt. Do you have any other suggestions for that time of the year? Thanks!

Craig Stoltz: I'd add only Margarita Island as a possiblity, though I personally would prefer A, B or C. (Margarita has some crime and grime problems, according to several folks I've corresponded with). I'd not recommend anywhere else in the Caribbean during that time of year.

Buffalo, New York: I'd like to recommend a corner of Spain that is probably off the beaten path for Americans. It's the Northwestern region of Galicia - green, rolling hills, fjord-like inlets with pristine beaches, a culture with Celtic roots - thy even play the bagpipes and a bullfight can only be seen on TV! Do yo know this region?

Craig Stoltz: No, Buffalo, I don't, but I offer it here as a possible response to our traveler seeking family-friendly areas in Spain. Sounds very interesting. Anybody out there been to Galicia?

Arlington, VA: Craig, as the editor the travel section, how do you decide where to send your reporters, what stories to publish etc.? I know seasons dictate some of that, but I'm just curious as to your criteria for writing a feature about a particular destination.

Craig Stoltz: Very often, we look for stories about places where travelers are likely to go or have some curiosity about. We do a lot of stuff about New York, San Francisco, London, Paris and the Caribbean because so many people from here go there. We're always looking for stories that tell people things they won't learn in guidebooks--these can be about anywhere. We love to publish good travel yarns about just about anywhere--travelers love good travel stories, just for the pure pleasure. And finally, we assume a wide diversity of interests: some people are cultural travelers, some seek physical adventure, some seek art, some seek anestesia at the beach, some are families seeking relaxation with a bit of education, some like to make ground-level contact with "real" folks who live in other places. We try to address these and many other interests along the way.

That's probably more than you wanted to know.

Washington, DC: For Riverdale, there is a cute new B&B in Berkeley Springs called Inspirations that I suspect is very gay-friendly. There's hiking nearby at Coolfont Resort and Cacapon State Park.

Craig Stoltz: Thanks, D.C. The Web--and our great readership--delivers again!

Washington, D.C.: I don't have any of my own, but I predict that Barcelona will be a big hit with the kids. There's an amusement park on a mountaintop that you have to ride a funicular to get to. There's a bustling port area (you can eat tapas while they play on the docks), and there is incredible and bizarre architecture, esp. by the noted Catalan architect Gaudi.

Craig Stoltz: Thanks, D.C. Let's hope. . .

washington, DC: First a suggestion for the DC honeymooners: I got married this past October in the south, on St. Simons, Georgia. We went down a week early to get everything ready, got married that weekend, and stayed another week for our honeymoon.

St. Simons is one of GA's Golden Islands. Since there are so many in a group (Jekyll Isl and Sea Isl are two of my favorites) there's history tours, miles of very empty beaches, beach-side clam bakes, horseback riding on the marshes, dolphin tours, and more. Plus, the Sea Island Spa is one of the best in the country.

Ok, here's my question. I'm going to Barcelona and I'm looking for a really great hotel or inn to stay at, preferably something overlooking the ocean. What are some of Barcelona's top places to stay?

Craig Stoltz: Thanks, Washington. My guess is there's golfing somewhere in this picture? I'd have mentioned the area but know it as a golf destination, and for some couples (where only one golfs) that's not a good way to start a marriage, if you catch my meaning.

Don't have my Barcelona digs yet. Any suggestions out there?

Gaithersburg, MD: Another "Redneck Riviera" suggestion: if you want something less tacky and developed than Panama City, try Pensacola, FL. Fantastic national seashore beaches, good nightlife both on the beach and in town, a well-preserved historic downtown, and the best aviation museum south of the Air and Space. Also not as hot as south Florida in summer.
-- from a former Pensacolian

Craig Stoltz: Gaithersburg comes through!

McLean, VA: This is the second McLean again (Catalina tipster). My family is Polish, and I know that airfare to Poland in the summer is really high--close to $1000. LOT, the Polish Airline, is still catering mainly to Polish Americans going to the old country. Nasty winters and summer break for school kids means more summer travelers. Maybe the entry of other airlines (American, I believe) has driven the fares down some. Still, the most expensive thing would be getting there. Hotels are also going up, close to U.S. rates. It's not so much of a bargain anymore.

Your writers are right that Krakow is a wonderful city.

Craig Stoltz: McLean, huh? You with The Agency by any chance? Thanks for the tips. . . .

Washington DC: For the person who wants to vacation in Europe in August:

In August, most Europeans leave the big cities in droves for the mountains and beaches. So while those areas are packed with "local" tourists, cities (especially Paris) lose a lot of their wonderful neighborhood ambiance. That's okay if you're interested in seeing the more mainstream attractions. Just something to keep in mind.

Craig Stoltz: Yes, good point, D.C.

St. Joseph, Mo.: To the couple: Go to Charleston. Stay in a B&B downtown; you'll be just blocks from the water (not swimming water, but "oh my isn't that pretty" water). 36 Meeting Street is a great B&B I can personally recommend. It only has four rooms, and each is very secluded, but it is downtown. $120 a night or so for a suite (check on price. I might be high). Breakfast isn't much more than muffins and fruit, but that way, you don't have to talk to strangers at breakfast. You won't be disappointed.

Craig Stoltz: Yet another vote for Charleston.

Torrington, CT: My wife is from Puerto Rico, and we normally go there twice a year. During the recent American Airlines fiasco, we were given two $300 vouchers to use on a future American Airlines flight. We've decided we'd like to go someplace other than PR, but stay on the East Coast. Any recommendations for a 7-10 day trip in October where accommodations won't be too expensive?

Craig Stoltz: I turn this one over to our clickers. East Coast place that can keep you busy for 7-10 days?. . . .

Washington, DC: Coolfont Resort might also work for the 9 couples from DC and NY looking for spa/golf, assuming they'd be happy with a low-key resort. Though golf isn't at the resort it's very close. They could rent a few of Coolfont's "mountain homes."

Craig Stoltz: Yes, D.C., good pick. Low-key, rustic, in a beautiful area. Lots for a big group to do.

Richmond, VA: Question for you Craig or any of the fellow chatters. Are you familiar with biking tours in Europe? Are they similiar to a "tour bus" excurion? Would I be better off just renting a bike and exploring on my own?

Craig Stoltz: I've never done this, but have heard from people who have done it both ways. A lot has to do with your attitude: If you like planning, fooling with maps, taking unexpected diversions, go on your own. If you want the activity but not (what registers for some travelers as) anxiety of self-planning, go for the group. As for the tour-bus comparison, depends who you choose. Ask the tour company about the average age, and tell them explicitly what you're looking for in terms of activity, freedom, etc.

St. Joseph, Mo.: I read a terrifying piece in the NY Times Travel section this week about the huge spiders and insects in Australia. I couldn't help but think about how destinations must hate that kind of publicity. How often do you get pressure to kill a particular story or to do a story on a destination that just isn't interesting or worth a story? How do you handle it?

Craig Stoltz: Hmm. . .St. Jo has quoted the Wall Street Journal and now the NYT. Say, I paid for this microphone. . .

Just kidding. We never face pressure to kill a potentially negative story, largely because we usually travel incognito and the folks we're writing about don't know much about our experience until they see the story. We also pay our own way for every trip--we never take press trips, press rates or freebies of any kind.

I'm sure the folks in Australia would like to throw the NYT on the barbie, and I suspect they'll write a letter to the editor, but there's not much anyone can do to prevent an indpendent publication from serving its readers. As long as what we write is true and serves the needs of our readership, we get backing all the way up to the publishers' office. Not all newspapers have such enlightened magagement.

washington dc: to the Richmond writer interested in Bike tours: My husband and I spent our hoenymoon hiking across crete - a tour we booked through REI adventures. REI tours were almost half the price of the other companies we researched and the only real difference was the level of the accomodations. Everywhere we stayed was clean and private - we decided that was all we needed. I highly recommend REI tours.

Craig Stoltz: Thanks, D.C.

Baltimore, MD: I was recently bumped off of 2 Metrojet flights and given 2 RT USAir tickets in exchange. Now I am wondering if these get lumped in the FF "free" tickets in terms of using them - I have no wasy to book a vacation a year in advance. How good are these "free" tickets?

Craig Stoltz: In my experience, frequent flier award seats and coupons given to make up for something bad are handled differently by the airlines. But the "free" (as opposed to FF) seats are still limited. Last October, I was able to get three seats to central Florida right around Christmas using freebies. But they couldn't get me to Orlando; I had to fly to Gainesville and drive to Orlando. Wasn't that bad.

So: The "free" seats are limited, so act fast. But the constrictions are not so great as they are for FF tix.

Craig Stoltz: Boy, how time flies, etc. I just looked up at the clock and see it's well past our time to call it quits for the day.

I want to thank everybody who pitched it--that sort of interaction between readers is what makes this forum so great.

Next week: Headed to Europe this summer? Don't miss Sunday's issue, featuring the "new" Berlin, driving in Spain, and lots of news you can use for your summer travels.