Talk About Travel: Transcript Hosted by Craig Stoltz Washington Post Travel Editor Monday, April 19, 1999

Craig Stoltz The Washington Post

This week's discussion was an open forum. The transcript is below, along with an archive of previous live travel discussions.

Craig Stoltz: Welcome once again, fellow travelers, to The Post's weekly chat about travel, the only online site where you can be virtually guaranteed to read the words "St. Joseph, Missouri" at some point. Once again we're playing "open phones," but we'd like to remind you that

(1) the weekend upcoming is certain to be one of the worst ever to spend in D.C. and environs, thanks to the NATO summit, so we're encouraging questions and answers about Escaping for the weekend (and Roger Piantadosi, who wrote The Post's book on Escapes, will harvest some tips for this very weekend on Wednesday's Escapes page in the Style section;

(2) in yesterday's ink-and-paper section, we (finally!) publish a list of 13 places to stay in Paris for, god help us, under $100 a night (in most cases). If this interests you, harvest yesterday's copy from the recycling pile or check out the story on line (byline: Deborah Baldwin); and

(3) as ever, this discussion is helped tremendously by your opinions, ideas and contributions. So quit lurking, fellow wanderers, and send your own responses to questions we publish here!

And now, please take note of the nearest exit to use in case of fire, and on to our feature presentation.

Arlington, VA: Can you suggest a romantic inn-B&B within a 1.5 hour drive of Arlington -aside from Annapolis, or in D.C.-? Our anniversary is coming up next weekend, but we can only get away for Saturday night. Since it's just one night, I don't want to go crazy and spend tons of money.

Craig Stoltz: Roger Piantadosi, author of the book Escape Plans (second plug already!) recommends the Inn at Vacluse Spring, in Stephens City, not that far from Front Royal. 800-869-0525. A tony choice in Maryland is Atrim 1844, not far from the Mason-Dixon line. Any others have ideas for romantic getaways for this time-pressed but romantic couple?

washington, dc: Do you know of any inn to inn hiking trips in Virginia? We would be interested in walking inn to inn with our luggage transported for us.

Craig Stoltz: This area doesn't have any of those luxe hiking trips of the sort you find in, say, Umbria or the Pyrenees. But a firm called Mountain Memory Walks (The Plains, Va., 540-253-9622) does put together inn-to-inn itineraries thoughout the mid-Atlantic. Give 'em a call.

arlington,VA: HI,
Is Duck, N.C. very commercialized? Just wondering since we are planning a family trip there. Thanks!!

Craig Stoltz: I'll turn this one over to our vast clicking audience. I was there years ago, staying in a beach house, and found it so under-commericialized I had to drive to Nags Head for groceries. But things may have changed. Any takers out there? Nay or Yay to Duck?

Arlington, VA: Is there a good website where I can locate B&Bs in Virginia, Maryland and possibly North Carolina? Also, how can I find out if a place is nice other than through word of mouth?

Craig Stoltz: bbchannel.com is the one we use around here, at least to start with, and that list has entries in all three states you mention. Microsoft's Expedia also has a b/b list more extensive than most big online sites.

Anybody else have a favorite site for regional b/bs?

Yes, it's very hard, even with a good site, to get the real goods on a place, since almost everything online is essentially an ad. Not to flog a dead horse, but our Escape Plans book has lots of B/Bs, all visited by real people who paid their own way (or we paid their way), and the list, while not comprehensive, is one of the most useful we know of.

Silver Spring: I was in Duck recently and it is still very uncommercialized. There is one shopping center north of the area that's great for groceries, and a couple of restaurants. Still considerable traffic though on checkin or checkout days.

Craig Stoltz: There you go, fresh Duck. Thanks, Silver Spring.

Washington, DC: We wnat to take a vaction this summer but after the April 15 hit, we want to be somewhat frugal. We have free airline tickets -assuming they will be availalbe-. We are thinking about going to Canada -maybe Banff?-to take advantage of the exchange rate and are interested in accomodation options that might save some money -- perhaps a rental with a ktichen. Any suggestions?

Craig Stoltz: Yes, you can buy 1.5 Canadian dollars with a U.S. dollar. But summer is peak season in Banff, and it has an international draw and reputation, and I'd be surprised to hear if any deals were available then. There are plenty of beautiful town in the Canadian Rockies, but Banff is the one place to avoid if you want to keep costs down.

Arlington, VA: What would you suggest for someone who hasn't been to Europe before -- a grand tour of four or five major cities or an in-depth view of one country such as bouncing around various parts of the French provinces? I don't mean tour in the sense of guided by the way.

Craig Stoltz: I'm a firm believer in the idea of having some purpose behind your touring--if you don't, you tend to wind up following the herds to the most obvious destinations. But if you want to see Renaissance art, say, that can guide your travels. Or if you like fashion you'd probably wind up going to Paris and Milan. Eurobeaches? Maybe Greece, south of France and Spain's Mediterranean coast. Wine? Loire valley and Portugal. Etc. The idea is not just to sample the big and obvious tourist things, but to go places where you can follow and develop your enthusiasms.

Washington, DC: I've done a lot of searching for B&Bs and there are many good web sites out there. I did not find any worthwhile sites that pertained solely to this area. Yahoo has an excellent directory of B&B finders.

Craig Stoltz: Thanks, D.C. I've never checked out Yahoo's list. . . .

arlington, va: Duck, NC remains as uncommercialized as any place I know. Be sure to bring lots of reading material- it's the one place I can always read a book straight through sans interruptions. Don't miss the Blue Plate Grill in Duck- a sort of upscale diner-ish looking place with fantastic food. One of my favortite restaurants on the east coast.

Craig Stoltz: More fresh sizzling Duck! If this keeps up, our little chat may mark the end of its undercommercialized phase. . . .

Arlington, VA: Hi Craig,

Question for you or fellow chatters. I'm going to The Bahamas this week and am staying at a fabulous resort. Do you have any suggestions for poetntial day trips, aside from the usual snorkeling, parasailing, etc.?

Craig Stoltz: Let's just hear from the chatters on this one. . .

Arlington: My grandparents just left for a cruise in Greece. They are spending a few days in London first, then in Turkey, before the cruise. I am worried sick about their safety. Do you think it's safe to be traveling in those areas right now?

Craig Stoltz: I would not fear. Our correspondents tell us that life goes on quite normally in most countries even closer to the war action than you mention. Once they're on the ship, they'll be completely safe. If they can't relax and enjoy themselves in Turkey, maybe they can add time in London.

Alexandria, Virginia: Re Romantic B&B - The day before our 20th anniversary we decided we had to splurge on a B&B outing even though it was a weeknight - went to L'Auberge Provencale in White Post Virginia. About 75 miles I think west towards Winchester. Very, very nice and romantic with a gourmet breakfast and country views. The restaurant is expensive but you can get a delicious dinner there too.

Craig Stoltz: Thanks, Alexandria. You got lucky, landing a nice place like that with no advance planning. . . .

Crofton, Maryland: A few weeks ago you -or one of your pinch-hitters- advised someone who didn't want to look too American while in Europe to: not talk loud, not wear bermuda shorts, and not eat at McDonaslds. To this list I would add: to lose weight if one is overweight. It's amazing, but I have been able to spot Americans at large distances in Europe, merely by their girth and width! You just don't see the quantitites of overweight people in Europe. What do you think?

Craig Stoltz: Ah, the ugly American conversation continues. At the risk of sounding like Carolyn Hax, it sounds like there's some judgment embedded in your observation. But yes, it's true. Few countries' tourists are so noticably well-fed as ours. I'd add not to wear U.S.-branded clothes, not because it marks you as an American but because people will think you're German.

Arlington, VA: Do you know if Green Turtle still operates its inexpensive cross-country bus tours?

Craig Stoltz: As far as I know, the dirt-cheap, dirt-y, young-at-heart bus tours that Green Turtle specializes in are still in action. We sent a reporter on a Baja trip not long ago, and let's just say it's a communal experience that certain people love.

Alexandria VA: Hello,

Do you have a suggestion for a young - budget minded -darn near broke- couple for a weekend escape from DC? Thanks

Craig Stoltz: One of my favorites is a quick jaunt to the Catoctin Mountains. Nice hiking--both a federal and state park right there, there's a lake on the state park side and wonderful hiking all around; and you can stay in the hamlet of Thurmont for around $50 per night. In Thurmont there's a big country buffet where you can eat all you possibly can for (I think) it's under $10 a head. There's even a driving route where you pass under three covered bridges--free! Hard to beat for the low-budget, rustic spree. . ..

williamsburg, VA: Next summer i want to backpack around europe, do you know of any good books to read before i go?

Craig Stoltz: Rick Steves' Europe Through the Back Door is one of the best guides to low-budget European travel. Unlike books that try to speak to all travelers, RS knows he's talking to frugal, culturally engaged backpackers and hostelliers.

Washington, D.C.: Between their loudness, American clothes, and yes, excess girth, I find it hard to distinguish German and American tourists when I'm abroad. Except the Germans drink more beer...

Craig Stoltz: Ah, we open the door to a dangerous room indeed. . . .

Washington DC: I wholeheartedly agree with Arlington VA about the best restaurant in Duck. But it's called the Blue Point Bar and Grill and you definitely need to make a reservation several days in advance. In spite of not being from the Chesapeake, the crab cakes there are fantastic!

Craig Stoltz: Make your reservations for Duck today, folks. . .

Arlington, VA: While living in Europe, I saw a travel show featuring Croatia's beaches as a holiday spot -- and, the show noted, you could hop a ferry a hit Venice for the day while you were at it. My question is -- with the current situation over there, is this still a viable option? Obviously, there was a lot of action in this region when the travel show aired, but the beaches were well away from it, and prices were incredible.

Craig Stoltz: The spate of Croatia-is-back stories--we ran a nice one about diving there--were based on the fact that the Bosnian fighting had ended, and elsewhere in the Balkans things were calm. While there's no evidence I'm aware of that Croatia might get pulled into the current mess, frankly I wouldn't go there now for the purposes of vacation. Everybody has different tolerance levels for stress and worry, but I prefer to keep it low when I travel for fun and relaxation.

Alexandria, VA: When I lived in Ireland for a year, I became expert in spotting Americans -- but not because of our excess padding. Among the vast majority of women in Ireland over the age of 45, the old cardigan-skirt combo is the uniform of choice. So American retirees in their jeans and khaki pants -- and tans -- were instantly recognizable miles away. Then, there was that one unfortunate incident where I spotted a man wearing a kilt -- sure enough, he was American. I've never seen an Irishman wear a kilt outside of a wedding.

Craig Stoltz: Thanks for directing the conversation back into gentler observation, Alexandria. . ..

washinton, dc: In response to the B&B folks. Try Little Washington, even if you're not going to the Inn. A number of very nice places have opened up in the area in response to demand for accommodations related to the Inn's business.

Also, there is a company called Northwind or something similar that does walking tours in various parts of the country. Some are in the Blue Ridge area. They are located in Waitsfield, VT.

Craig Stoltz: Yes, good point, DC. And Northwind sounds like a good tip. . ..

Alexandria, Virginia: Re looking "Un-American" - I add: wear Black! Just returned from France and Belgium - its amazing how dark their clothes are - in France, the ubiquitous scarf on women adds some color, but the color palette is v. limited. Besides, a major advantage to wearing black is related to the original commenter about fat Americans - Black clothes are supposed to be slimming.

Craig Stoltz: Yes, the Pack Black advice works for lots of reasons--calls no attention to you, implies no nationality or social class, etc. It's sort of the traveler's "neutral."

wash dc: I have been very fortunate and have traveled alot of the world, china, lots of europe, russia, central asia, many parts of south america, but lots of it has been business. I am looking for something mind bending for my 50th coming up, what would you recommend, machu pichu, what?

Craig Stoltz: The Seychelles, islands in the Indian Ocean just off the coast of Africa. Supposed to be other-worldly, naturally surreal, well off most folks itineries. Any other suggestions for this jaded world traveler?

DC: Re: the ugly American. I've always tried to blend in in the past, figuring that's the way to get to know the folks. Of course you can't -- mystically, Europeans can spot you a mile away. Part of it is that not only the brands, but the cuts of clothing are different. Haircuts are different. Of course, you can't hide your accent.

So, this time, I'm thinking maybe I'll try another approach -- be not the stereotypical American, but the archetypal American. Wear a cowboyish hat, emphasize what little Southern I've got left in my accent, hum the Dallas theme wherever I go. Do you think the Euros will lap it up? I'll be in Ireland, and I think it might at least be good for a few pints....

Craig Stoltz: Maybe you should go real retro-authentic and dress like a Pilgrim. Just make sure the musket isn't loaded.

Washington, DC: We are booked on the inaugural cruise of Carnival's Triumph -to Nova Scotia- in July. What happens if the ship isn't ready in time for our scheduled cruise date? Has this ever happen before? Also, would we be better off exploring Halifax on our own or booking an excursion through the cruise line?

Craig Stoltz: Yes, inaugural cruises have been cancelled a lot lately--in fact I think that's more the norm than the exception in the last year--so brace yourself. The cruise line normally re-books you on the next available sailing and sweetens it with a half-price offer on your next sailing, or two-for-one, or an upgrade. We always advise against booking inaugural sailings. Unless you know Halifax well and have something specific to see, go with the flow and pick the ship's tour. They're usually matter-of-fact, but rolling your own can be challenging until you learn either the port or ports in general.

Arlington: When I was in the Netherlands last summer everyone seemed to assume that I was Dutch. This was during the Gay Games in Amsterdam when there were thousands of Americans there. I didn't go out of my way to look inconspicuous, just wore 'nice' clothes -no Tshirts, just polo shirts or nice casual shirts-. It may also have helped that I learned a few words of Dutch -please, thank you, etc-. But even before we left Dulles some of the Dutch passengers thought I was one of them and started speaking Dutch to me asking me to change seats, until I told them I didn't speak much of the language. I guess what I'm trying to say is, that there's probably no foolproof way to blend in and I'm not sure that it's even necessary just be who you are. But the best thing you can do is look decent, be polite, and learn a few foreign words.

Craig Stoltz: The quiet voice of wisdom from Arlington. I'd second the bit about learning the language. It's really quite boorish--and, alas, quite American--to expect your hosts to accommodate to your language. If in Washington a foreigner came up to you asking questions in German and demanded an answer, how sympathetic would you be? Much better someone who manages a few words in English, gestures to a map, and asks for help.

St. Joseph, Mo.: When I toured Italy two years ago, our tour guide -who had lived there- pointed to two things that seemed particular to Americans. One was when crossing a street, our group of five tended to cross one behind the other, rather than abreast. He avocated abreast, which we adopted, and seemed to ease our traversing busy streets in Rome. However, in the narrow, winding streets of Venice, we had a propensity to fan out as wide as possible, which he also -politely- asked us not to do, as we took up all of the room. Good points. I had never thought about it. As a condition of our trip, no jeans or tennis shoes were allowed. It was winter, and actually worked well for us to do so, and we blended in well. I wondered if perhaps we are used to having so much space that Americans automatically take up as much of it as possible -big cars, etc.- -No comment on the weight thing --- I think their are fat Europeans, we just don't see them out walking busy city streets.-

Craig Stoltz: St. Jo! Fascinating tip about walking abreast. And yes, the space thing is indeed deeply embedded in the American psyche. . . .

Arlington, VA: Weird-I was just about to ask if the Seychelles was worth the $$$. Friends who were married there rave about it -- except when they were served bat for dinner at their hotel.

Craig Stoltz: Not sure this is a vote for the Seychelles or not, but it's interesting to know.. . .

Washington DC: For Europe first timer. Years ago I did one week in London followed by one week in Paris. Found that to be a great introduction to Europe
while allowing a lot of time for immersion in each city and day trips out.

Craig Stoltz: Yes, and the Chunnel from England to France, just opened last year, really makes this much more doable than ever. . . . .

Washington, DC: Dear Craig:

I am wondering if you have any suggestions for a weekend getaway for a young couple who are living in the city -and so of course have no car-. We don't mind renting a car if where we will stay will be cheap -fine with a motel-. We just want to get out of the city!!!

Can you point us in the right direction? A web sight possibly?

Thanks! Signed, metro-bus dependent in DC.

Craig Stoltz: I'll start by saying Charlottesville, and the Blue Ridge not far away, is one of my favorite 3-hour-or-so country drives and getaways. But there are lots of solutions here. Anybody care to advise these needy urbanites?

Washington, D.C.: I am getting marry Feb. 26, 2000. We have been together for 25 years and travel in the U.S. but not really outside. We would like to go on a honeymoon where it is warm, beach for about 4 nights 3 days and around $1,000 the most for both. Help if you can.
God Bless

Craig Stoltz: That'll be tough, because mid-Feb. is the heart of the Caribbean high season, and rates are high. At the risk of bringing up a topic we overdid a few weeks ago, Punta Cana in the Dominican Repubilic is very aggressively priced these days, and so is Cozumel and the more developed areas of the Bahamas. At $1,000 for both of you, you'll probably need to do a package from a place like Apple Tours. No harm in that, though the accommodations are always strictly tourist class.

Washington DC: Hi Craig:

We're planning a trip this summer with our 2 children to Israel by way of London for a few days. We'll be there in the first weekend in august. We already know it will be hot in Israel, but will it be necessary to find a hotel with air conditioning then in London? Most of the budget alternatives do not have this amenity.

Craig Stoltz: No experience with London in August. Clicksters, can you help this man? Anybody who live in London listening in today?

Washington DC: Re the 50th birthday blow-out: I haven't been to the Seychelles, but they're high on my list of places to go. A trip there would be wonderful combined with a luxury safari in Kenya and-or Tanzania. We went last year on a custom safari, just four of us, arranged by African Adventures-Sounder Safaris. It was absolutely spectacular.

Craig Stoltz: The votes are in, and it's Duck, N.C. and the Seychelles!

Fairfax, VA: My friend and I would like to drive up Cape Cod, Nantucket, and Boston for a week in August. Do you have any good suggestions on what to do, eat, and where to stay at these places? And how to avoid to crowds. Thanks.

Craig Stoltz: If you want to avoid the crowds, don't try Cape Cod in August. While most developments are low-key (no high rises), the traffic is unbearable on the single road. My only advice is to time your drive so it's in the early a.m. (like 4 or 5, I mean), get to your accommodation and don't drive again until it's time to leave. You'll love it.

McLean, VA: Re: heat in London. I was in London in July a few years ago, and the newspapers screamed about the heat wave at 80 degrees. The humidity was pretty as well, so a seasoned Washingtonian should be fine with an open window.

Craig Stoltz: Thanks, McLean.

DC: The needy urbanites could rent a bike and cycle to somewhere luxurious. In Leesburg, or maybe Harper's Ferry. For really on the cheap, cycle out to Bear's Den Hostel just this side of the Shenendoah -- bike path most of the way. Outside rush hour, you can take the bikes on Metro to get as far away out of the city as possible.

Craig Stoltz: That's a great suggestion. Never heard of Bear's Den. . . .

Hume, VA: My husband and I want to meet up with friends this summer in Cumberland area of Kentucky. We all want to relax, canoe, play in the lakes, read, and visit, and we want to stay somewhere rustic -cabins and the like] maybe near a small town. Any suggestions on places to stay? This is for August, which we assume is peak season-- but the only time we can take off-- so I think we need to plan it now...Thanks.

Craig Stoltz: Yesterday's Travel Q & A will take up this precise question in next Sunday's paper. If you miss the ink-and-paper version, you'll find it online as of next Monday.

Craig Stoltz: Sorry, I hit "send" too quickly. I meant not yesterday's Q & A, but next weeks. And speaking of which, it's already time to sign off. Thanks for all your participation this week. In next week's ink-and-paper version, we guide you through the subways of New York. See you next Monday, same time, etc. I'll be the one wearing black.