Talk About Travel: Transcript Hosted by Craig Stoltz Washington Post Travel Editor Monday, April 26, 1999

Craig Stoltz The Washington Post

This week's discussion ranged from Montreal to the Maldives, with further discussion on Americans abroad. The transcript is below, along with an archive of previous live travel discussions.

Craig Stoltz: Greetings once again, Monday Online Travel Lurkers, Experts and You (MOTLEY?), it's time for our weekly conversation on the world of. . ..well, the world--and, more specifically, how to move through it as a visitor, with intelligence, enthusiasm and dignity almost fully intact.

In yesterday's semi-annual New York ink-and-paper issue, we exhorted readers to get of the cab and *take the subway* next time they invade Washington's favorite weekend playpen, Manhattan. Of course, we'll be happy to swat any NYC questions you may have right out of the park. But , as usual, we'll do our best to handle all other questions, provide (occasionally) brilliant, (mostly) on-target advice and moderate our ongoing salon in which readers exchange opinions on various travel phenomena (how not to look "American" when you travel overseas was last week's extracurricular activity, but we welcome other tangents, threads and tears as well).

And now, on with our show. Question in the back? Yes, you sir, wearing the handsome black ensemble. . . .

Providence, RI: Could you suggest a good midtown hotel in NYC -- one with character and a sense of history that would welcome children but not totally drain a bank account.

Craig Stoltz: Funny you should ask. Yesterday's Sunday's Travel section spotlighted five New York hotels worth
considering, one of which fits your requirements. The Hotel New Yorker, a 1930 Art Deco beauty at 8th Avenue
and 34th Street, recently reopened after a lengthy renovation and welcomes kids with open arms (too much so, in fact,
if you're on a floor with a class trip or the like, so be sure to request a group-less floor when you check in or make your
reservation). Rates start at $159 double--not exactly dirt cheap, but the location is outstanding: Right across from Penn Station and five-minute walk to Macy's, with the Empire State Building in view from many rooms.
There's a swell diner in the lobby that's open 24 hours a day. Want more? Go to the Post Travel section Web site, where you'll find yesterday's five, plus last fall's 10 picks at $125 or below.

springfield, virginia: hi craig!
my husband and i have a tenth month old daughter and as such, have not travelled since our honeymoon.
we are looking for a family resort that will allow us to enjoy our trip with our baby.
my husband is a fan of more tropical weather where he can relax by the pool or on the beach. i am flexible.
also: what is the airlines policy on babies? do we purchase a regular fare seat and bring a carrier for her to sit it? or, as she is still nursing, can she sit on my lap for the duration of the flight?

thanks!

Craig Stoltz: The Franklyn D Resort in Jamaica is one of the best for parents of very small kids, because each suite gets its own (are you sitting down?) vacation nanny. We took our two boys there about two years ago and loved life at the resort, though the beach is puny. Alas, as we reported in yesterday's paper, things have been dicey in Jamaica lately, and though last week's riots sparked by the gas tax seem to be over, it may not be a great place to go with a 10-month-old any time soon. There's a Club Med in Florida, whose name I forget, that specializes in parents with infants (I believe Club Med has only the one resort that takes kids under 12 months, though you should call and check) which may permit the requiste pool-snoozing (though, if I recall, it's not a beachfront resort).

As for the kids and the seat: Most airlines now charge 50 percent for a kid under 2 in a seat by her/his self. You can still do a lap kid--we did it several times, with results ranging from embarrassment-to-all-humanity to no-big-problem--but if I had to do it over, I'd take the extra seat at 50 percent. That dignity thing. Also safety. But especially the dignity. If you do the lap: arrange for a bulkhead seat; you can set the kid down and create a tiny marauding zone with a blanket and a beanie baby much more easily there.

By the way, foreign carriers routinely discount kids' seats, which I've long admired. It's sort of a way of distributing the costs of reproduction across the entire population, not just those who have kids right at the moment. Very enlightened. Very European. American carriers, once the kid is two, usually charge full adult fare.

Arlington, Va: Greetings fellow member of the "Black Pack,"

My best friend and I are frazzled and need an exciting week-end escape. We are thinking about the Caribbean, Mexico, the ever popular Punta Cana, Miami, or New Orleans. Should we save Punta Cana-Caribbean for when we have more time? If we stay in the US, we want to visit somewhere as "foreign" as possible, hence Miami and New Orleans. What would you recommend?

Thanks

Craig Stoltz: The low-budget Caribbean areas you suggest are indeed perfect for the short getaway--the environment is so blissfully different from what you get here that you quickly forget what's on your desk, and it's quite easy to spend three days in nearly total anesthesia: a raft in the waves, a pina colada on a lounge chair, a dorky limbo dance at night. In fact, I never recommend (most) Caribbean islands for longer getaways, because often you'll just get more of the same.

For a "foreign" US visit (that's a neat idea, by the way; remind me to gin up a story on that theme): I'd add to the list only Savannah (foreign if you're a northerner), and maybe San Antonio (though that's getting very tony and conventionneering, like New Orleans). Tampa's Ybor City, though gentifiying too, is another way to get a dose of Cuban-ish culture. Any Black Packers (the reference is to travelers savvy enough to wear black, so as to disguise their Americanness, i.e., habituees of this forum) one else have ideas for "foreign" US cities?

Augusta, GA: What should I pack for a three-week tour of Rome and Florence in mid-June? We'll be visiting lots of churches. I'm female and can only take one medium-sized bag.

Craig Stoltz: Says K.C. Summers, Deputy Editor and just back from those very same cities (10 days, one bag): Black pants, black skirt and a bunch of different tops. No shorts, no sleeveless tops, since you're visting churches. But pants are OK. Even jeans. No miniskirts in churches. "Black," she avers, "is the key--it goes with everything and doesn't show dirt, and you'll blend in with the natives."

Washington, DC: What's planned in Rome for the Christmas-New Year 1999 celebrations, and is it still possible to get accomodations there?

Craig Stoltz: Says Summers: Rome is all torn up right now in preparation for Jubilee 2000--scaffolding, construction crews, things closed and under renovation. Let's hope it's all YTK compatible. It's certainly going to be big, and it's going to continue well into the year 2000--it's not just a New Year's Eve thing. There's a Web site, www.roma2000.com with info on hotels and restaurants, but specific Pope activities, religious celebrations, big parties, etc. are not yet announced as far as we can tell. Give a buzz to Italian Tourism at 212-245-4822.

Washington, DC: Just a comment on your NYC subway feature -- you encouraged tourists to look for the color of the line they want. This is helpful, up to a point, but it's really important to check the number-letter and direction as well. For those used to the simple Washington system, it can be a rude awakening. I had a friend spend an extra hour underground because she hopped on the first "green" train she saw, which was the wrong line.
Otherwise, I would encourage everyone to take the subway!

Craig Stoltz: Thanks, Washington, and yes, you're right. Number and letter are very important, and yes, ignore them at your own peril.

Arlington, VA: A week or so ago, you criticized Priceline,com. What is your problem with it and is there any web travel agent that can compare to the human one?

Craig Stoltz: Priceline is a system where you place a bid on a "product" (airfare or hotel) and agree, before you know, to accept it if they can meet your price. Problem is, you don't know who the carrier or hotel is, you have to accept (with airlines) a flight any time of day and lots of other blindnesses and restrictions. Also, the company, I don't believe, is a viable business model: In order to establish itself, and to meet bidders' requests, it has had to sell many tickets for less than it pays. Its losses are huge. It just did a big Initial Public Offering and has a laughably high market value, but frankly I think the product's lousy. I know very few people who can and are willing to travel in a way that lets them use Priceline.

Aside from that, no, I have no problem with it.

Washington, DC: A few weeks ago, one of the travel writers suggested going to the Outer Banks of NC for New Years. Isn't NC cold and desolate during that part of the year? I love it in the summer but... Why is this such a good location for a New Years vacation this year?

Craig Stoltz: Because there will be no crowds and lots of space to retreat with loved ones and relax. Also, I've been there around Christmas time and it was wonderful: 50s, sunny (part of the time) and quite beautiful. If you're looking for a party, go elsewhere.

Reston, VA: Craig & Staff - love this online forum! I think I'm addicted. The question - I'm going to Vienna next week for business. I'll have about one day and a half of leisure time to explore the city. Since I am short on time, what are the "must see" places in Vienna?
Please recommend good restaurants as well. Thanks!

Craig Stoltz: As for the addiction, I understand that seasickness patch may also treat online addiction. Give it a try and let us know!

Says Carolyn Brown: "Vienna is a gorgeous city, the standard tourist attractions are the Imperial Palace, St. Stephans Cathedral, river cruises on the Danube (don't worry, it's well north of Belgrade). Most, though not all of the good stuff is located inside the Ring Strasse that cirles Vienna. Inside, you'll migrate to Graven for great shopping, cafes and people watching. Kunsthauswein is a funky museum dedicated primarily to an architect and artist named Hundertwasser, famous for his "a straight line is evil" design philosophy. Go to the Prater, a giant ferris wheel, for great panoramas of Vienna.

To get in the mood, rent The Third Man and Before Sunrise, two flicks starring Vienna.

Washington, DC: Re "foreign" US cities:
Any place with palm trees feels pretty exotic to me, a life-long northerner.

Craig Stoltz: Indeed.

San Francisco: Best "foreign" city is San Francisco. It is a breathtaking city...

Or go to Seattle and then drive to Vancouver, BC

Craig Stoltz: Two more great ideas. . . .

St. Joseph, Mo.: When I lived in coastal N.C. in 1997, we spent Christmas day on the beach. It was 70 degrees, blissful, beautiful, and very desolate. We collected seashells and then gave them all to a small child. also spent a new Year's eve in Va. Beach in 1992-93. It was great --- cheap, cheap hotels on the beach, no crowds, nice weather. nice enough for a walk on the beach.

Craig Stoltz: Always great to hear from St. Jo., especially when the correspondent agrees with us. . . .

Alexandria, VA: Hi Craig - I'm taking a trip down to Asheville to see the Biltmore and plan to hit Great Smokey Mountain National Park while I'm down there. What things -sights or accomodations- in the general vicinity that I shouldn't miss?

Craig Stoltz: Says Carolyn Brown, just back from four days in Asheville:
The Biltmore's great, get there at 8:30 a.m. to avoid crowds. Downtown Asheville's a cool scene for shopping, cafes, funky art and crafts. To relax, go kayacking on the French Broad River.

DC: When do you think would be the best time to buy a ticket for August travel to either Spokane, Washington or Missoula, Montana? Right now, prices are very high -$500 - $750 each- and I'm wondering if-when fares will lower.

Craig Stoltz: In a word, never. Sorry. This is the curse of American civil aviation: great competition the big cities, smaller ones are monopoly victims.

Fairfax, VA: Re: Foreign Cities:
A city that actually -is- foreign, but closer than a lot of American towns: Montreal!

Craig Stoltz: Another great idea. . . .

Arlington VA: Craig: My friend and I are thinking of doing a day trip to Berkeley Springs. She's been before -to the State Park- so she knows its primitive conditions, etc. but also its cheap rates for a soak and massage. Question: are the higher priced spas there worth it? Any recommendations on where to eat--shop?

Craig Stoltz: Says John Deiner, who went this winter: "I love The Bathhouse, a private business right across from the state park. A half-hour in a bubbling jacuzzi tub, followed by a half-hour massage, is $45--well worth the price. And there's a nice view from the tub as well.

"Tari's restaurant is great--good food, service, eclectic, terrific ambiance, jazz on Saturdays. It's right in the middle of downtown Berkeley Springs. Get reservations or eat in the bar area."

Let us know how it went. . . .

Arlington, VA: How in the world is San Francisco "foreign"? While it is a lovely city -- one of the best in the country -- it's about as foreign as D.C.

Craig Stoltz: I'd argue that it's far enough afield, climate-wise and culturally, to qualify. I'd like to hear from others. Also various big Asian subcultures. This whole "foreign" US city thing is getting interesting. . . .

Arlington, VA: For my parents' 35th anniversary, we're sending them to NYC for a few days. What's the swankiest hotel we can get for $250 or less per night? -Early Septemberish-.

Craig Stoltz: We recommend The Plaza Athenee (swank, secret), the Carlyle (in Mad Ave tony shopping area), or the Algonquin, near Broadway. It's been refurbished recently but retains some character. Any (well-heeled) clicksters have other suggestions?

Rockville, Md.: My wife and I and our three children -ages 9 - 15- want to go to Bermuda this summer. The kids are particularly interested in swimming with dolphins. What are your suggestions for comfortable, but reasonably priced, hotels that offer the dolphin activity? Which airlines fly direct from any of the D.C. area or BWI airports. Any suggestions for packages which reduce overall cost?

Craig Stoltz: The Southhampton Princess is the only hotel that offers the dolphin program (as far as I know), but it's tony and expensive (in the $300s per day, if I recall correctly). You can stay elsewhere and try to reserve a space in the dolphin program, but you may not get in, as preference goes to guests. USAirways flies direct to Bermuda from BWI. I have seen Bermuda packages recently; in fact, there was an ad in our paper yesterday with Bermuda deals. Check yesterday's paper; Southhampton Princess was listed as one of the deals.

Harrisburg,PA: I think that San Francisco is the only American city that I have seen that has the charm of a European city.

Craig Stoltz: Thanks, Harrisburg. . .

arlington, va: Another comment re: the Black Pack. My closet is a sea of black, so I have little choice when traveling. When in Rome over the Winter I was often mistaken for British, and my black clothes and chunky shoes were cited as the "giveaways." FYI, I was hit on by more beautiful Italian men than ever before in my life. However, learning a few phrases and just being open and polite are the key. It's amazing how far "ciao" wil get you. . .

Craig Stoltz: Ciao, Arlington!

Washington, DC: I had some problems with Delta in December when I flew to Portland. I sent them a complaint letter on January 8. I sent them a copy of that letter via Delta's website on March 24. I have yet to hear from anyone at Delta. What should I do? Should I write to them again? Thanks.
Do Airlines normally take this long to reply to a complaint?

Craig Stoltz: We haven't tried this yet, but last week we heard about a new service called passengerrights.com, which says it can help you handle this sort of thing, including filing your complaint electronically to the appropriate parties.

Let us know how it works. Usually complaint letters do get at least form responses within 8 weeks.

washington, DC: Hi Craig,-you look really cute in your pcture by the way-

I was wondering which of the Carribbean islands you would recommend for being less crowded, more isolated, -any deserted beaches?-, but safe too... get my drift? i don't need any family type place and i scuba dive but i don't require that facility...?
Thanks bud,
Katherine Ella David

Craig Stoltz: Saba (offers some diving too); Dominica (with Saba, subject of our off-the-beaten-path Caribbean issue in March), Anguilla (tony, expensive, but a lot less crowded than most). St. Lucia, though developing, has some out-of-the-way places; Martinique can also offer some solitude with a French flavor.

As for your first comment, thanks but I suspect maybe you've been spending too much time at your computer screen.

McLean, VA: Regarding all of this talk of black clothes--Americans seem to have a lot of self-loathing when it comes to travel. We hate "looking American" overseas -which is understandable, considering some ensembles I've seen and grating voices I've heard overseas...-.

Anyway, the question: do you know of any other ethnicity-nationality that hates "looking -insert nationality]"?

Craig Stoltz: I turn this one over to our vast clicking audience for comment. . . .

Torrington, CT: Any idea why airfare to the Caribbean, more specifically Puerto Rico, is so high right now? About two months ago the round trip fare from CT was $300. Now, in what is supposedly the slow season down there, the fare is nearly $550.

Craig Stoltz: American cut back flights to the Caribbean, to redeploy the planes on more profitable European routes. It's made seats much more scarce, and we know the ageless, unyielding relationships between supply-demand-price. Package deals, which use charters (they're the ones that advertise in papers), are the best source of deals right now.

WAsh DC: To recap: does this mean that if I go to San Francisco, wear black & chunky shoes, and say "ciao", I, too, will get hit on by gorgeous Italian hunks??

Craig Stoltz: No, Asian hunks.

Arlington, VA: For the person traveling to Vienna, I'd add a visit to the library in the Hofburg Palace, with some of the most beautiful ceiling paintings I've ever seen, and the Kunsthistorische Museum, on the Ring Strasse, with strong collections of Flemish and Dutch art, including a Vermeer that didn't travel to the exhibition in DC of several years ago, as well as Italian painting and sculpture.

Craig Stoltz: Thanks, Arlington. . . .

St. Joseph, Mo.: I had a big Delta problem two years ago -six hour delay, missed flights and then they lost my luggage. I missed a job interview because of them.- I got two $200 vochures out of them within three weeks. They were very apologetic. I still hate Delta, but at least the next time I had to fly them I was flying on their dime. I choose not to fly them now. Too much hassel.

Craig Stoltz: Still more hard-won wisdom from the Travel Capital of the Midwest. . . .

Arlington, VA: A friend and I are batting around the idea of going to Montreal for a long weekend in August. We'll do some sightseeing, but we mostly want to bum around, soak in the atmosphere and sample a few delicious meals. Any thoughts?

Craig Stoltz: According to Gary Lee, go to the site of Expo '72, hit the market on the waterfront in Old Montreal for crafts and artifacts, and make a reservation at Toque for the best restaurant in town.

Washington, D.C.: Are there any official or unofficial advisories or cautionary warnings about travel to Europe, specifically Italy, due to the Balkans war and refugee situation? Does the State Department have a web site that lists and updates such warnings?

Craig Stoltz: Check the State Dept site before you go anywhere of course (travel.state.gov). Our reporters are staying close to this story, and we've found no reason to put off or avoid a trip to Italy. I'd go. I'd take my family. Croatia's another story. Hungary. . .tough call. Turkey? Dunno. But Italy at this point is not anything to worry about. Cruise ships aren't calling at Venice any more, because of the increased military activity on the Adriatic. There's no threat on land, however.

Arlington, Va.: Regarding Americans not wanting to appear American, I can present the exact opposite side of the coin. Literally every Canadian I have ever encountered abroad has some kind of maple leaf identification prominently on their clothing or luggage. Maybe Americans should try this...

Craig Stoltz: Eh?

Columbia Heights, DC: McLean is right -- I'm beginning to think that one of the most obvious characteristics of travelling Americans must be their angst over "fitting in" -- which, of course, is impossible. It's beginning to seem terribly Junior High -- which is why I'm sticking to my cowboy hat and southern drawl routine for Ireland-Scotland- Wales!

Craig Stoltz: Godspeed, pardner!

Arlington, VA: For the early Arlington: Being mistaken for British is not a good thing, and in order to have tons of Italian men hit on you in Rome, you must simply be female.

Craig Stoltz: !

Arlington, VA: When I visited San Francisco for the first time last year, I found it to be the most East Coast-like city of any on the West Coast. And yes, that is a good thing. Having lived in Europe for several years -in three different cities-, however, I REALLY did not find San Francisco to have much European flavor -which is not a bad thing, just a fact, particularly in San Fran's case--I love the city-.

Craig Stoltz: So, Arlington, what *is* the most European-esque American city?

Arlington, Va: Are you familiar with Cocoa Island in the Maldives? It sounds incredibly chi-chi, and looks stunningly beautiful. Is this someplace prohibitively expensive, and how does one get there?

Craig Stoltz: Yikes. I turn to our vast clicking audience for help with this one.

McLean, VA: About Canadians and maple leaves on their luggage, my cousins in Toronto tell me this is done so they are not mistaken for Americans.

Craig Stoltz: !

Columbia Heights, DC: Oh, Oh, Montreal! There's an absolutely fabulous B&B there called something de Sans Soucy, one of the only places to stay in Vieux Montreal. Very un-B&B -- spare, beautiful interior stone walls. Michael Soucy, who runs it, has a great story about waking up in a B&B with 17 teddy bears staring at him, whereupon he had his vision.

Craig Stoltz: Thanks, Columbia Heights. . ..

Arlington, VA: I don't think it's that people are ashamed to look American, it's that we're ashamed to look like the rest of the world's IDEA of what Americans look like. According to them, we're all rich, loud and opinionated. And compared to most of them, we are. But please, whatever you do, stop wearing your Aran -fisherman- sweaters when you travel in Ireland.

Craig Stoltz: Well said! It's a truism that anything you can buy at the airport should not be worn in the country you're visiting. Dead giveaway. . . .

DC: This is SO neat, I can't believe it. Not trying to be pushing, but I submitted a question about Switzerland before the chatster began; any chance you'll have a chance at it? THANKS!!

Craig Stoltz: Incredible as it may seem, we didn't answer it because we didn't have a clue. Anybody out there help this reader who's headed to Switzerland? We haven't had a writer there in a long time. . . .

Vienna, VA: Montreal is a good suggestion. Along with it, I'd add Ottawa and Quebec City. I visited Ottawa one recent January and felt completely transported to another world. Visiting Parliament, watching skaters on the frozen river, and dining in some wonderful ethnic restaurants was refreshing. Just experiencing that much cold will be an eye-opening experience for a lot of Americans.

San Fransisco and Seattle don't really qualify as exotic in my mind, but they are both so charming, delightful and different from DC that I'd jump at the chance to visit them again for a weekend.

Craig Stoltz: Yo, Vienna.

Arlington, VA: Don't know if it's the "most" European city, but New Orleans is pretty groovy.

Craig Stoltz: Yes, Arlington. . .

Richmond, Virginia: My family and I love taking weekend road trips. Can you suggest a weekend getaway that would be as fun for adults as it would be for an 8-year-old?

Craig Stoltz: N.C.'s Outer Banks (ferry to Okracoke is neat for kids and grown-ups too); Wilmington, N.C. (filming of Dawson Creek!); Eastern Shore of Virginia (via Chesapeake Bay Bridge Tunnel).

Craig Stoltz: Well, on that earnest, anticlimatic note we end this week's forum. Save up your good questions--and, better, your good answers--for next week at this time. In Sunday's paper: Las Vegas goes upscale! Tyrants tour Cambodia! And cruise ship ports you can drive to!

Have a great week, and keep those tray tables in the locked and upright position.