Talk About Travel: Transcript Hosted by Craig Stoltz Washington Post Travel Editor Monday, May 3, 1999

Craig Stoltz The Washington Post

This week's discussion dealt with local cruise ports, millennial travel plans, how one reader resolved an airline problem using our advice and much, much more. A transcript is below, along with an archive of previous live discussions.

Craig Stoltz: Greetings once again, everybody, and welcome to The Washington Post Travel Section's Weekly Travel Chat, the online forum that every week bravely answers the question, "What happens when people who are deeply passionate about travel, and badly supervised during work hours, interact with each other online?"

In yesterday's ink-and-paper edition of The Washington Post Travel Section, Carolyn Spencer Brown, our section's cruise reporter, wrote about nine ports much closer to the Washington area than, say, Cape Canaveral or the Port of Miami, from which cruisers usually depart. In other words, ports you can drive to instead of having to fly. She's in attendance today, to take your questions about cruising--from any port, not just "local" ones--and as usual, I, Carolyn and the other travel section staffers unwise or unlucky enough to be hanging around the office will handle whatever questions you throw at us.

So adjust that oxygen mask firmly around your nose and mouth before attempting to help the person in the seat next to you, and let's get on with the show.

Grasonville, MD: Is it safe to travel to Europe this summer?

Craig Stoltz: Funny you should ask. Next Sunday we'll publish a pretty comprehensive answer to that question. Meantime, says Carolyn Brown, who's writing that piece:

"Yes. And no. Because of the Balkan conflict -- and rising anti-American sentiment in the form of occasionally violent protests -- the State Department has issued a handful of warnings and public announcements. The obvious places to avoid are Bosnia, Serbia, Albania and Macedonia, but our sources are also recommending that travelers postpone trips to Greece and Turkey. Western Europe is still, at least at this moment, relatively unaffected but if you're heading to mainstream countries -- Italy, France, Spain -- be prepared for air delays. Better bets, and farther from the action, are Scandinavian countries and Ireland and the United Kingdom. To keep abreast, check the State Department's web site (http://travel.state.gov/travel_warnings.html) for the latest. Juicy details to come Sunday.

And hey, there's nothing wrong with Ocean City. . . .

Washington, DC: Husband and I want to find nice little cottage by lake near White Mountains that we can use as base for week in New England in July. Can you suggest any nice towns or resorts we might try? Want to see Mt. Washington, etc.

Craig Stoltz: I think I became a traveler for the first time in the White Mountains of New Hampshire. I was a teenager driving from Ohio to Maine in a '68 Dodge Dart on a whim and very few dollars to back it. One day we parked at the base of Mt. Moosilauke, part of the White range that includes Mt. Washington. It was the first mountian I'd climbed and from the moment of my first view of that carpeted evergreen mountain valley--with Mt. Washington looming in the near distance--I was hooked. It was my first "mountain rush."

But enough about me. If you want to use the Whites as a base to explore New England, I'd recommend you stay a bit further south than Mt. Washington, and stay somewhere near the intersection of Route 93 (the big N/S road) and 112 (E/W). There's a resort community near the town of Lincoln called Loon, and it's composed of ski and other resorts. Loon Rentals (www.loonres.com) can provide a range of accommodations, from spartan to luxe. This way you'll be near the major roads that can take you into Maine or Vermont, or south to Massachusetts. Mt. Washington won't be too far away for a day trip. And if you "climb the Moose" on your way, give a yodel into the valley for me.

Meantime, Gary Lee recommends Newfound Lake, just west of 93 and south of the White Mountains, as a pleasant base of operations. And Carolyn Brown is a fan of Squam Lake, again just south but on the eastern side of 93, as a good base for loon-watching. On Golden Pond was filmed there.

Arnold, Md: Hi Craig!
Timed-out on your last discussion. My girlfriend and
I are planning a trip to
New Orleans in October. What's the scoop on cemetary-swamp tours. We're looking for things to do that are a bit quirky and off Bourbon St. Anything that's not to be missed -we'll be in town for a week-? Some have suggested the Voodoo Museum.

Thanks!

Craig Stoltz: Gary Lee, just back from The Big Easy, advises getting tours rather than going it alone: a swamp tour, a voodoo tour and a midnight cemeteries tour. But for each, there are bad and good. Do shop around; don't just grab the first brochure you're handed on Bourbon Street. Gary recommends Roandolph Delehanty's Ultimate Guide to New Orleans for excellent suggestions, particularly on voodoo and cemeteries. Be sure to take the street car up Charles Street towards Tulane University; for a $1.25 ride, you'll see some of the most beautiful houses in the U.S.

Brown says she always calls the concierge at the swanky hotels for tour recommendations, as they take pride in steering visitors away from the schlock. They don't have to know you're not staying there.

New York, NY: I am using frequent flier miles to fly to Ireland in September. I wanted to fly into Dublin and stay at a pretty nice hotel for a night or two before renting a car. Unfortunately, because of the frequent flier, I have to fly into Shannon. Any ideas on a nice place to spend a few carless days near Shannon. I've heard Limerick is kind of boring and industrial and am thinking of Ennis.

Craig Stoltz: Says Deputy Editor K.C. Summers, who went to Limerick last year:

Actually, don't write Limerick off -- it's a surprisingly fun and interesting city, with a lot of history (including a wonderful old castle you can prowl around in, and a medieval cathedral) and a lively, walkable downtown with block after block of restored Georgian row houses. The waterfront has been cleaned up and you can stroll along the banks of the Shannon and admire the swans, rowers, etc. And thanks to the popularity of native son Frank McCourt's 'Angela's Ashes,' Limerick has become a tourist destination in its own right -- the visitors center has put together a walking tour of AA sites (mercifully, the slums are long gone).
As for nice places to stay nearby, there is a wonderful (if pricey) option in the nearby village of Adare, which is one of those little thatch-roofed villages that just wins your heart from the minute you see it. A deluxe resort there called Adare Manor is a five-star hotel in a Gothic Tudor mansion on an 840 acres, with every amenity you can think of, plus golf, fishing, horseback riding, fox hunting etc. Also in Adare is Dunraven Arms, an old-world inn with fireplaces, antiques etc.

Washington, DC: Thinking of going to London and environs for 10 days starting October 10th for my honeymoon. Is this adviseable given the weather? Any can't miss stops?

Craig Stoltz: Says Brown: Weather's gorgeous then. Tourist season's done, the rains haven't started in earnest yet, good price. Base in London and do day trips to Oxford, Brighton, Kent.

Washingtonpost.com: Here's a table of seasonal weather statistics for London: http://www.weatherpost.com/longterm/historical/data/london_unitedkingdom.htm.

Washington, DC: Hi Craig,
Love your chat, here's my question:

My mom and I would like to travel somewhere new in Europe this fall for around 5 days. We've been to -the major cities in- England, Scotland, and France. We were thinking about either a city in Italy or maybe Vienna.

Any suggestions? We like quaint B & B's, great bargain dining -we found some superb restaurants in the "Let's Go Britain and Ireland"-, and some "must-see" sites.

Also, what about hiking tours? Are they worth it, or do you not get to see as many sites on foot?

Thanks!

Craig Stoltz: Vienna is gorgeous, and you can take the train just about anywhere in Europe from there. One great place for cycling or walking is Durnstein, which is the heart of Austria's wine country and sits on the Danube.

As for packaged walking/cyling tours, the good thing is you have sag wagons, which pick you up if you're exhausted or sour. But don't go cheap. That kind of tour is worth spending more for, since you're more likely to get charming accommodations and decent guides and meals.

McLean, VA: For the Ireland traveler, I was in Ennis myself. It's a very pretty little town with twisting cobblestone streets. It's easily navigable on foot. I didn't make it to Limerick, so I can't say what it's like there. Try the Lonely Planet Ireland guide for good car-less suggestions.

Craig Stoltz: Thanks, McLean.

Southbridge, VA: Hello Mr. Stoltz,

Where do you recommend traveling in the Caribbean geared towards fun activity, night life, but not TOO commercial and over-americanized? thanks...

Craig Stoltz: Dutch and French islands are a good bet: Martinique, Curacao, maybe Aruba. Any clicksters have other suggestions?

Washington, DC: This is last week's persistent Swiss Miss regarding anything on the original question re: creative or noncreative info on travel to, in and around the Switzerland?

Craig Stoltz: Can anybody help this poor woman?

Washington DC: My wife and I are travelling to Seattle -and possibly Vancouver- with a one-year-old boy in the middle of May. We have eight days, and no particular agenda. Are there places we should go that would be child-friendly? Anyplace on the San Juan Islands? In Seatle? Vancouver?

Craig Stoltz: Gary Lee says Stanley Park in Vancouver is very child friendly. He also says there is a train that runs from Vancouver out to Whistler, the ski and resort area, which should amuse the little one. In Seattle, try the ferries that go across Puget Sound for a sensory experience.

Arlington, Va: For Southbridge- how about the ever popular Punta Cana in the Domincan Republic?

Craig Stoltz: Alas, we've never had a nightlife report on our favorite Caribbean destination--which may, for all we know, not even really exist. Anybody done the evening scene in ol' PC?

Columbia Heights DC: Shannon is pretty close to the famous Burren in Co. Clare which is said to be a not-to-be-missed unique natural wonder. I missed it, and I've been regretting it for the last 12 years.

Craig Stoltz: Yes, I've heard the same about the Burren. We have a reporter there now, so we may have some more info on it in the next several months.

Arlington, Va.: I have a strange cruise question: Let's say I was scared to fly and wanted to get to Europe by boat. Are there any price-effective ways to do this? How long does the crossing take? Have any passenger ships gone down during Atlantic crossings?

Craig Stoltz: Says Carolyn Brown, our cruise correspondent: "The best time to sail to Europe is during Spring and Fall when cruise lines are "repositioning" ships from the Caribbean to Europe (and back again). There are great deals because these aren't meant to be revenue-enhancing voyages for the lines, which hope they can just get enough paying customers to cover costs. There's great variety, from Costa to Celebrity to Windstar.

Don't forget too, the mighty QE2 -- the only passenger ship to have regularly scheduled transatlantic cruises. This is a good option if you aren't able to go in spring or fall.

And yeah, passenger ships have gone down in the Atlantic though not recently. Ever heard of Titanic? Lusitania?

Bethesda, MD: Hi Craig, love the chat! I'm headed to Miami for the weekend. Do you have any 'must do' ideas for me?

Craig Stoltz: Go to South Beach, of course; go to Lincoln Road for cusp shopping; Key Biscayne has some great swimming beaches where you can rent all sorts of watercraft; Coconut Grove and Coral Gables are two neighborhoods worth checking out.

Silver Spring, MD: Planning a trip to Jamaica for Christmas, and I hear mixed reviews of both the resort vs. 'off the beaten path lodging' debate. In terms of overall reliability, cost, and quality, what type of lodging would you suggest? Do you have any hotel-resort recommendations?

Craig Stoltz: Depends what kind of traveler you are. Remember, Jamaica is a "developing country," as they say, meaning it's poor and, recently in particular, suffers from things like riots and social disorder. If you're a Lonely Planet, let's-get-to-know-the-citizens-of-the-world person, there are plenty of small, cheap villas off the tourist tracks. Some of these, I'm told, can be unsafe. If you're just seeking beach and sun, stick with an all-inclusive resort where you don't have to leave the reservation.

If you're interested in other cultures and personal safety, I'd recommend places like St. Lucia or Dominica, where there tend to be fewer problems.

Washington, D.C.: I was in Basel, Switzerland last fall. Beatiful Rhine River setting, winding pedestrian streets, an incredible medieval town hall. Much more vibrant than I expected from a Swiss city.
It's also an easy base to explore into France and Germany (I crossed a border without realizing it).

Craig Stoltz: Thanks, Washington, you bailed us out. . . .

mclean, va: re: Travel to-in Switzerland

Fly into another European hub and train it there. As for getting around there, take a train, too many mountains to take a bus. If you can get a car, great whatever. Geneva is great. Beautiful! But Hamburg, Germany is almost exactly the same and has a more interesting nightlife.

Craig Stoltz: And McLean!

Silver Spring, MD: Hi! Two questions: My boyfriend and I wanted to do something for the millenium but found that airfare to our desitination -St. Lucia - we would have had free lodging-was way out of our price range, about $800+. How long after the New Year will it take for airfares to drop?

Second, how reliable are those ads in the Sunday Travel section for cheap fares? I need a cheap ticket to Denver for August. I've seen fares between $180 and $400. What's a good fare?

Thanks!

Craig Stoltz: In St. Lucia, I'd say rates will drop pretty fast, pretty hard, by late January. Some places--Italy, London, Holy Land--are expected to keep drawing millennial crowds throughout 2000, but the islands should be hitting a post-bash lull in late January. Airfare to St. Lucia is rarely cheap, however, especially with recent service cutbacks throughout the Caribbean.

As for the cheap fares you see advertised in our section: We're doing a big report on those firms--called consolidators--on (we think) 23 May. Meantime, as long as you pay with a credit card you're pretty well protected if the company doesn't deliver your ticket (though you may miss your vacation, of course). One good bet: Call a standard travel agent and tell him or her to find the best consolidator fare for you. Agents tend to work with consolidators they trust, and the agency can give you a layer of mediation or leverage if problems develop.

Baltimore: In your cruise ship port story yesterday I was pretty disappointed to see how few ships actually leave from Baltimore. Any plans for other lines, beside Carnival, to depart from there?

Craig Stoltz: Says Brown: "Baltimore would like to snag more cruise traffic (so would Alexandria, the DC port) but the Chesapeake Bay is a bit of a problem -- it takes a cruise ship eight hours to sail down to the mouth at Norfolk/Newport News and that limits itineraries. It's about the same distance from DC to the Atlantic."

Washington, DC: For the couple going to New Orleans . . . I've heard that Tippatinas -sp?- is a great place to catch a band. I didn't get there during my trip and haven't quite gotten over it. Have fun, and a hurricane at Pat O'Briens for me!

Craig Stoltz: Thanks, Washington. Our reporter went to N.O. last year, and Tippy's got a rave.

Arlington, Va: What is the latest on Jamaica? Have things settled down? Still debating destinations for a week-end getaway- should we strike Jamaica from the short list and head for Miami or PC instead? I promise a detailed report of the nightlife if PC prevails.

Craig Stoltz: It's calm now; noone who has plans to go to Jamaica soon should feel a need to cancel or defer. But frankly, if I had a choice of islands right now (and you seem to) I'd go elsewhere. Who needs that kind of uncertainty and stress on vacation? We await your PC nightlife report.

Washington DC: What's the best way to find out if advance tickets are required, and how to get them, for the new Monet Waterlilies exhibit at the Orangerie museum in Paris? There was an article about the exhibit in the Post today and we are off to Paris next week!

Craig Stoltz: Start with www.francetourism.com

McLean, VA: About consolidators: I got cheap tickets through Euram Flight Center last year, and then they went out of business. I found out by reading the article in the Travel section--Euram made no attempt to contact me. Fortunately I paid by credit card, so my credit card company refunded. Euram wouldn't send me the tickets, though. It's a good thing I insisted on a faxed itinerary, which wasn't standard for them. Euram was no fly-by-night, either. They had been around for 20 years. So definitely be careful.

Craig Stoltz: Thanks, McLean; we concur.

Gaithersburg, MD: I enjoyed the article on the cruise ports within driving distance of the area, but I noticed that all the cruises mentioned ports of call in Bermuda. Are there any other ports of call, like Canada in the summer, we can enjoy?

Craig Stoltz: As the chart showed, there are calls to the Canadian Maritimes (those islands off the east coast of Canada), but most sail from New York and Boston. The QE2 does the Atlantic crossing from New York. You can do the Bahamas out of Charleston. The funky, smaller-ship lines go to. . .(are you sitting down?) Buffalo, Rochester, et al., via the Erie Canal.

DC: I'm off to Key West this weekend. Any must dos? Or restaurants-bars that we must visit?

Craig Stoltz: OK, clicksters: We're tired of listening to ourselves. Time for you to chime in. Anybody have pointed, off-the-beaten-track advice for this hearty soul? And no, Sloppy Joe's is not considered off-the-beaten-track.

C.D. , notgnihsaw: where would you suggest going for New Year's that not more than $1000-person for a week?
thanks, love your advice, you're great!

Craig Stoltz: We continue to promote--with the same odd fervor we have for Punta Cana--the Outer Banks of North Carolina for New Year's. Delightful weather, affordable, quiet, and driveable. Anybody else have a suggestion?

Washington, DC: Key West? I'm jealous! I haven't been, but have had several friends rave about a restaurant there . . . not sure of the name, but chickens roam the yard? Hey, it's Key West - anything goes, right?

Craig Stoltz: OK, it's not helpful advice, but it may prime the (margarita) pump. . . .

phila. pa. : we -married couple- are considering a trip to rome for christmas; any tips on a moderately priced hotel, good tour operators? we are looking at a direct flight to rome around dec. 17 leaving dec. 27

Craig Stoltz: Sorry to say so, but I think you're going at a very (as they say in the retail biz) "competitive" time. Rome for Christmas '99 is going to be packed, I suspect, and the day you fly out is when many Millennialists will arrive. In other words, a very hard time to find bargains. Has any clickster checked this out yet, and have any more specific advice?

Arlington : re: consolidators

It's also a good idea to demand your actual physical tickets as soon as you can. With tickets in hand you'll have no trouble, but if they insist on you waiting until very near your travel date to get the tickets, I'd beware. I think the "travel agent as middle-man" idea is a good one, even though I suspect it adds a fair amount to the price there's a certain piece of mind that comes with it.

Craig Stoltz: Yes, Arlington. Agents will add somewhere between $10 and $25 per consolidator ticket they sell--a modest tax for some insurance.

washington, dc: this chat thing is better than swiss cheese; an awesome thank you to you Craig, and the chatsters who chimed in about Switzerland.

Craig Stoltz: Ah, the satisfaction of helping fellow travelers. . . .

mclean, va: key west, ahhh so nice when its NOT spring break. there's a really cool bar-think Bob Marley- called Barefoot Bob's. And there's a spectacle every night at the Pier-end of famous Duval St- at sundown. Freaks, people who balance bikes on their faces, etc. Great seafood place down there too. Avoid the beach by the airport. Its rocky and too windy. Don't forget Hemingway's house. Don't get into a car that isn't marked CAB-TAXI even if the guy tells you he is. I was harassed and left in the middle of nowhre by a cokehead. key west is the best!

Craig Stoltz: Thanks, McLean. I went to Key West years ago, and at the Hemingway House was shocked to see the guide to the tour was an elderly man who wore, I swear, thick makeup. Nice cats, though!

McLean: I have been seriously considering going down to the Outerbanks for New Years because of your suggestion. Now, I just wish you wouldn't promote it so much or else we'll end up with TONS of people and crowds and high prices ! thanks.

Craig Stoltz: Ah, the pain of helping fellow travelers too much. . . .

undersupervised worker, St. Joseph, Missouri: For New Year's: how about driving south into the country and looking at the stars? A midnight picnic in a mild destination could be nice, and cheap, and romantic. If that's what you are looking for.
Key West: If you just want sun, etc., and don't have a place to stay yet, there's a nice Hampton Inn in Islamorada that's a year old. Really enjoyed it there; right on the water. About 80 miles from Key West.

Craig Stoltz: As ever, St. Jo holds forth from the center of our fair nation. . .

Washington DC: While you're plugging OuterBanks for New Years, I'll recommend the Sanderling Inn -- a really wonderful upscale resort in Duck -- with its own health club, terrific restaurant. We honeymooned there in September

Craig Stoltz: Thanks, D.C. Brown also endorese the Inn at Corolla Light, in Corolla. On the sound--gorgeous sunsets, a bit quieter. Rooms have fireplaces, big bathtubs.

Washington, DC: Craig,

I wrote to you last week about a problem I was having with Delta not answering my complaints. As you suggested, I had passengerrights.com forward my complaint onto Delta. The next day, I got a phone call from Delta apologizing for all the delay. Delta addressed my grievances in a satisfactory manner. Thank you for your suggestion!

Craig Stoltz: Great to know this worked out. Take note, fellow victims, of an apparently effective way to get a response from airlines. . . .

Potomac MD: Hi Craig-

My wife and I are planning a second honeymoon--what is the best time of year to explore Italy and Greece?

Craig Stoltz: The fall. Don't go in August, when Europe goes to Italy and Greece. And we wouldn't want to go to Greece any time soon--there's a lot of anti-American sentiment related to the war.

Annapolis: What's your favorite National Park to visit and why? I'm interested in a camping-hiking vacation.

Craig Stoltz: I just spent some time in Joshua Tree National Park, about two hours from San Diego or L.A. It's an awesome, forlorn beauty, with piles of rocks as big as condominiums and those crazy looking Joshua Trees, sort of like a mix between a palm tree, a pine and a Dr. Seuss drawing, marching across the fields. Wonderful hiking, rock-scrambling. Not many facilities. There are a couple towns to the the north that cater to the hipster-20somethings who flock there to climb rocks. But the park is never busy and never "fills," like many popular western parks do. The wind nearly knocked me to my knees several times.

Washington, D.C.: Hey Craig,
Just wanted to tell you Europe is way affordable, i.e. less than $1000-week. I'm hitting Luxembourg and Brugge, Belgium, and little mom and pop hotels with nice digs can easily be had for $60-$70-night. Are you paid to plug the South Atlantic?

Craig Stoltz: In a word, no. Thanks.

Undisclosed business, St. Joseph, MO.: I stayed in a convent in Rome. It really was like staying in a hotel, and it was wonderful. Didn't have to attend services or anything; it was about $60 per night per person, including meals. Rooms overlooked the Piazza Farneze in Rome. Here's the info: Casa di Sata Brigida, Piazza Farnese 96 1-00186 ROMA, telephone 39 6 6865721, or fax 6865263. I'd recommend faxing with your request, as not all the sisters speak English, and they can find someone to interpret English writing. Book now. Also try: Suore di S.Brigida, fax 39 6 858540845. I know the second one is in Rome, not sure where.

Craig Stoltz: Say, you on the payroll for the Vatican? No, just kidding. Thanks again, S.J.

Craig Stoltz: Well, clicksters, that ends our little brain-cleaning session for the day. Thanks as ever for all your partipation. Next's ink-and-paper issue: Beyond the Pail 2: How You Haven't Spent Your Summer Vacation. Save up your last-minute (?) questions about getting away this summer. Meantime, be sure to request a seat on the exit aisle. . . .