Talk About Travel: Transcript Hosted by Craig Stoltz Washington Post Travel Editor Monday, May 10, 1999

Craig Stoltz The Washington Post

This week's discussion dealt with local cruise ports, millennial travel plans, how one reader resolved an airline problem using our advice and much, much more. A transcript is below, along with an archive of previous live discussions.

Craig Stoltz: Greetings, fellow wanderers, and thanks for joining our weekly travelchat, where we answer questions, gather the collective and sometimes terrifying expertise of our regular clicking audience and prove the old adage that one man's meat is another man's bag of peanuts, or something like that.

In yesterday's paper, we did our annual Beyond the Pail section, where we provide a good list of the thinking vactioner's options to the beach, national parks, theme parks and other common choices--and then, whistling from the other side of our mouths, report the news you need to know about some of those very same overdone alternatives, just in case you reject our advice.

But before we get started today, one of today's clicksters has posted a question about this very forum, wondering how we choose the questions we publish and answer. Using the characteristic brutal honesty for which we'd like to become known, here's the truth. We hope you find it useful in formulating queries:

1. Questions we happen, by some happy coincidence, to know the answer to;
2. Questions about places or things that a staff member has been to recently, helping us advance the comforting fiction that our staff have been everywhere;
3. Questions that permit us to refer to stories we've recently done, to advance the comforting fiction that you can't afford to miss a single week of the Travel Section;
4. Questions we can answer with a quick flip through the pile of books and old sections we've assembled for this task;
5. Questions that we figure people in our clicking audience might be able to provide useful feedback and opinions on (this is one of our favorite kinds);
6. Questions that complement us lavishly, let us make jokes, or, failing that, introduce important travel-related issues that can generate a hearty online discussion.

The kind of question we get a lot of, but usually have to ignore, is the kind that's so maddeningly specific the answer is likely to be of interest only to the author: "I'm going to Bedkow, a small town not far from Lodz, in July, and I'm wondering if you can tell me about the weather at that time of year, the best restaurants, a castle to stay in for less than $100 per night and the complete names of guides who speak English and work for free. Also, what is the traditional dish of the Bedkow villagers?" We also frown on questions about more obscure places easily accessible from a basic guidebook.

And remember: The best thing about this forum is not what we say, but what you do. We hope all the lurkers tuning in will add their advice, opinions and experiences when a question permits.

All that said, it's time to dive into today's questions. If you can all lay all your bags on the conveyor belt and step through the metal detector, we can get on our way. Except for you, sir. Yes, you. Take all the change and keys from your pockets please. . . .

washington, D.C. : I have been trying to plan a cruise and have come down to a choice between Royal Caribbean and Silver Seas. Problem is, I have seen no good reporting on Silver Seas. Can you give me a quick run down of the pros and cons between the two? If I'm looking for something really nice, are there other options I should be exploring?

Craig Stoltz: Says Carolyn Spencer Brown, the Post's cruise reporter: "Whatever led you to a choice between Silversea and Royal Caribbean? These cruise lines couldn't be more different. Silversea is the ultimate upscale line, where tariffs run between $600 - $1,000 per day -- all-you-can-eat caviar included -- while you can easily book an entire
week on Royal Caribbean for about that amount. RCCL competes with Carnival for the "contemporary" cruiser. Expect theme bars, virtual reality centers, numerous alternative restaurants (and on its newest ship, due out
next fall, a rock climbing wall and ice rink). Expect, also, a lot of company; most of the Royal Caribbean ships hold upwards of 2,000 cruisers (Silversea passengers, on the other hand, are an exclusive group, with
capacities in the 200-plus range). In making a choice, ask yourself these questions: what's my budget? Do I want to visit off-beat, unique ports or mainstream destinations? How important is the caviar?

washington, d.c.: Hi Craig,

I'm going to Barcelona this summer and would love to go to some local theatre. Do you have any suggestions on how I can get tickets or even find out what's available?

Craig Stoltz: The city of Barcelona has its own web site (www.bcn.es -- then click on "English" in the upper left corner) but its online pickings in terms of theater options are pretty slim. Still, Barcelona's theater scene rivals Madrid. Of course it helps to understand Spanish--or maybe Catalan--if you go. Otherwise it'd be like watching a movie in Chinese.

Alexandria, VA: Hi Craig,
Do you know of any nice places in VA or MD to go fishing for a day, either fresh or salt water? Thanks

Craig Stoltz: Roger Piantadosi, our "Escapes" editor, recommends Sperryville, Virginia and Tilghman Island, on Maryland's Eastern Shore. Mike Tidwell did a wonderful story last year about places to fish in D.C. proper--there are many great places ["Where is This Man Fishing," by Mike Tidwell]The Potomac near White's Ferry, and near Fort Washington Park in P.G. county, are also great spots. Anyone else want to share a favorite fishing hole?

Alexandria: Craig...I will be in the UK for about 9 days in July. I will fly into Heathrow, but hope to make my way up to Edinburgh and Stirling. Any recommendations about good places to stay? Also, is it a good idea to get Britrail passes before arriving in the UK?

Craig Stoltz: You can do your own comparison shopping from home, via Britrail (1-888-274-8724, www.raileurope.com). Anybody have good recommendations near Edinburgh and Stirling? Brown stayed in a flat right along The Royal Mile and says it was great. . . .

Washington DC: Husband and I are off to Costa Rica in February -this time we're gonna plan ahead- to celebrate my 50th. How wet-dry is season then? We want to take 10 to 14 days, and see a variety of what country has to offer -- love birds, nature, are adventurous and willing to consider all kinds of accommodations. Looking for
recommended itineraries and-or CR travel agent?

Craig Stoltz: The basic tourism season in Costa Rica is Christmas-Easter; the wet season doesn't start until May. Mid-Feb should be great. As for recommendations, I turn to the clicksters: Any Costa Rica vets out there to help Washington?

Clemson, SC: I enjoy reading your travel advice every week--thanks! ...My wife and I plan to visit Italy this summer. Our itinerary for Florence and Sienna is set, but we also want to visit the Italian Alps, and don't know much about the area. We would love to find a remote lodge, do some low-key hiking, and the like. Do you have any suggestions?

Craig Stoltz: Greetings, Clemson! The Italian Alps -- primarily the Lombardy region -- is glorious. Rent "A Month by the Lake" with Vanessa Redgrave if you want to get in the mood;
Lake Como is a great place for hiking, cycling, boating. It's about an hour by train from Milan. Excellent web resource is www.italiantourism.com. Milan, which often gets short shrift, is an excellent city to spend some time in--very arty, cutting edge, more European than Italian.

Arlington, VA: You had the article on whether it is safe to travel in Europe right now but I'm not sure what the recommendation is. I want to be in Italy -Venice, Florence, and Rome- around July 1. Would you go there then?

Craig Stoltz: We'd go. We wouldn't hesitate to go to those places, given current conditions. But things could veer out of control, given the situation in China and last Friday's report about rocket attacks on U.S. and British banks in Greece. One solution: Head to Amalfi, the western coast of Italy. (Florence and Tuscany are there too.)

Another reader asks about China, and whether it'll be safe by June. Frankly, for a leisure/cultural trip, I wouldn't go now. That's a personal opinion and gut reaction only. If you can go elsewhere, I would.

Arlington: Craig, this week I'm flying out of Dulles for the first time. How easy is it to do the Metro-shuttle thing?

Craig Stoltz: None of us here have done it, but I suspect the clicksters can help you out. So: How's the Metro-and-shuttle-bus combo to Dulles?

New York, NY: Hello!

My question concerns exchanging money. I am traveling to Europe in June -- one night in Italy and then 2 weeks in Spain. I was going to get a bunch of Traveler's Checks and cash them into local currency once I'm in Europe. However, my dad, who just went to France, said it's better to change money over here -better exchange rate- and just take cash overseas. Is that dangerous, and can I get a better exchange rate in the U.S.A. rather than in Europe? Thanks!

Craig Stoltz: First: It's not a good idea to travel anywhere with a huge wad of cash in your pocket. Buy travelers checks here, if you want, then convert them as you need the money. But credit cards -- and ATM cards, which let you withdraw money in the currency of the country -- are still the safest and most efficient methods (though make sure you tuck a spare couple of hundreds in either cash or travelers check in case systems go down overseas).

Rockville, md: Within the last few months you printed an article giving information about travelling from the Islip airport to Manhattan - but I can't find it anywhere on the website. Can you help out w-options and approximate prices?

Thanks!

Craig Stoltz: Click on Archives, and feed the words Islip or Sottili (the author of the story) into the search field. Since the story's a few week's old, you'll have to pay, alas, to get it from the archives. Go to www.iflysouthwest.com; the site makes price comparisons instantly clear. When we reported, the low price was $39 each way--but you spend more than the airfare to get in and out of the city. We concluded the best cheap way to do it is advance-purchase regular air ($108 round trip, recently, to airports just outside Manhattan), or ride Amtrak to Manhattan. A few readers swore by Greyhound's express bus, urging us to "ride the dog."

Arlington, VA: This is for the Dulles question - take Metro to National and then take the Washington Flyer Bus to Dulles - they leave every hour on the hour during the week -hours vary on weekends - call to check-. I think it is $16 each way and takes about 45 minutes. Definitely the way to go - especially with parking so expensive and so tedious at Dulles.

Craig Stoltz: Thanks, Arlington! Anybody else?

New York, NY: Once, I had to take the Metro-Shuttle Bus to Dulles and it wasn't too bad. It was easy to figure out, a whole lot cheaper -a few bucks for both rides as opposed to a $60 cab ride on the way back- but, as you probably imagine, it took a lot longer. So just plan for more time and make sure you can handle lugging your baggage through public transportation.

Craig Stoltz: A New Yorker with wisdom about local travel joins in. . . .

Alexandria, VA: For the Dulles traveller,

If you're not in a hurry the metro-shuttle alternative is great.

Craig Stoltz: Yo.

Arlington, VA: My boyfriend's siblings are putting together a cruise for their parents' 50th wedding anniversary. They've found a $995 apiece deal that gets them from Dulles to Spain, covers a coastal cruise and pays for several night in a "moderate" hotel. Having been in many "moderate" hotels in Europe, I know they can range from okay to downright awful. Should they be wary of such a good deal?

Craig Stoltz: Yes, beware, but a lot depends on who is packaging the tour and what cruise line it is. Ask for specific hotel names, and investigate on your own with guidebooks and the Internet.

Fairfax, VA: I've done the metro-shuttle bus to Dulles. You catch the bus at the West Falls Church Metro stop. I had no real problems with it, just the usual annoyance of luggage on the train being awkward. Just give yourself a lot of extra time--better to kill time in the airport than to be chewing your fingernails sitting on a bus in the middle of traffic a half an hour before your flight.

Craig Stoltz: Yo and yo!

Arlington, Va.: I'm planning a trip to Paris in October and am looking for that rarity, a small, charming, centrally located hotel, preferably under or around $100 per night. Does such a place exist?

Craig Stoltz: What, there's no home delivery of the Post in Arlington? See Cheap Sleeps in Paris, by Deborah Baldwin, Sunday, April 18.

Washington, DC: Any suggestions for the best place for a safari in Southern Africa in late January, early February? I have heard that it is the rainy season, which could affect wildlife viewing.

Craig Stoltz: John Briley ["The Zambezi Way," March 14], says to avoid the delta lowlands, particularly the Okavanga Delta in Botswana. Beware it's very buggy in rainy season (the time you specify), increasing malaria risk.

Arlington, VA: Hey Craig,

This is for Alexandria, Va who is in search of a fishin' hole. Lake Arcola near Great Falls is nice. It's even better if you start out near GF and paddle to your destination. There's a nice little nature center, picnic area, and hiking trails as well.

Craig Stoltz: Go fishin. . . .

Reston, VA: Regarding the Metro-Shuttle Connection:

I've done it, and it seems to work fine, so long as you aren't lugging much luggage. It's certainly cheaper than a cab, and significantly quicker than taking the shuttle bus to those horrible satellite lots.
If you're toting lots of luggage, the logistics of transferring from bus to Metro
can be troublesome. If Metro would install luggage carts at the West Falls Church Metro Station -hint, hint, Metro-, it would make transfer much easier for those burdened with lots of luggage.

Craig Stoltz: And Reston adds its weight to the discussion. . .

Paramus, NJ: My fiance and I would like to get married this winter at an all-inclusive resort in the Caribbean. While there is a lot of information out there as far as choosing between resorts based on amenities, I am wondering about the choosing the best time for our trip for the best price. What tips would you have to get the best deal?

Craig Stoltz: After Thanksgiving and before Christmas is a great time, with low crowds and lower prices. The season peaks from a week before Christmas through the end of January, so avoid that. Serious deals start in February and get better in March and April. If you're going all-inclusive, do as much research about the facility/brand/hotel company rather than the island. If you're staying on campus mostly, the island you choose matters little.

Washington, D.C.: We just got back from a week in Italy, Rome and Venice. The only sign that there is something going on in the Balkans are slight air traffic control delays - a few minutes in Frankfurt -a dual use military-civilian airport- and a few minutes in Venice -nearby Treviso airport is military.- Best fish ever at DaFiore in Venice -tiny soft shells-. Avoid Harry's Bar, which is not good value for money.

Craig Stoltz: Thanks, Washington, for the fresh info on Italy.

Washington, DC: No need to understand the language when seeing theater abroad! If it's good theater, you'll enjoy all of the other facets even more, and you'll have more of an opportunity to do what the locals do. Last fall in Florence, a friend and I bought tickets to La Gatta Cenerentola -something like the Cinderella Cat-. Well, it was a far cry from the familiar Cinderella tale, but funny nonetheless with a host of step-sisters and the step-mother all in drag. Besides, the production turned out to be in the dialect of Naples so most of the Italians there didn't understand it either, but it sure didn't stop the laughter of applause. Tickets were relatively cheap, too.

Craig Stoltz: Thanks, Washington.

Arlington: I am getting married this summer -august- and my future wife and i are trying to figure out where to go for our honeymoon. We want to go to a place where its not too hot like the -carribeans-. We were thinking of the South Pacific. Any suggestions? We have approximately a week to spend in our honeymoon.

Craig Stoltz: If you only have a week, don't do the South Pacific--you'll spend nearly half your time in transit. Any clicksters been to the Caribbean in August and recommend a milder climate? For most islands, the sea breezes keep the temperature bearable, even in the dead of summer. Do avoid the islands exposed to the hurricane path; August is pretty chancy. The Dutch ABC islands are more isolated from the weather.

arlington, VA: Last week, you remarked about
"crime and grime" on Marguerita Island, Venezuela
as a reason not to go there.

Could you be more specific
about the concern? The
people from there think it's
great. And now Miss Universe
is the governor proclaiming
a area a tax free zone. What
more do you want?

Craig Stoltz: Hi, Arlington: Marguerita Island is just off the coast of Venezuela, and is sometimes considered a "Caribbean" destination. We wrote a fond story about it about 18 months ago and received several letters from people who had been there more recently than the article's author, who told us it had gone downhill, there was a lot of petty crime, etc. Other reports I read afterwards bear this out. I'd read the State Department sheet on Venezuela. There is a lot of change going on in the government there, and they do indeed covet tourist dollars. Whether it will regain its stature I don't know.

Any clicksters have experience on M.I.?

Arlington, VA: Son of Beyond the Pail- Two good destinations for day trips: Battle Creek Cypress Swamp near Calvert Cliffs, MD and Catoctin Zoo, state park, etc. Battle Creek is fabulous- there's a little trail w-ramps and bridges, so you can walk through the swamp- but it's even better via canoe. Catoctin is a nice drive-diversion from DC.

Craig Stoltz: Yes indeed, these are both great places; I visited them while researching my book on stuff to do with kids [Kid-o-Rama, Post Books, if you must know]. Both are day-trip distance but can also make comfortable, diverse longer stays.

Arlington, VA: I'm planning a solo summer excursion to New England - including a wedding in Stowe VT, visiting friends in Maine, and swinging through Boston on my way home. Are there any places along the way I should make a point of visiting on this extended road trip -I'll be gone about 2 weeks total-? Thanks!

Craig Stoltz: On May 30 we'll publish "Do North," our guide to I-95 north from D.C. to Canada. It'll have lots of info about places along the way. K.C. Summers, our reporter for that chunk of road, loved Newport, R.I. and Portsmouth, N.H.--for a solo traveler, lovely B/Bs, neat museums, boutiquey shopping, etc.

Ranshaw, Pa.: I'm fascinated with Cambodia and would love to visit, but is it really hospitable to tourists? I'm not saying I want to stay in a Holiday Inn or anything, but can I expect a reasonable range of hotels and restaurants? Do hotel staff and such speak English? And is it safe?

Craig Stoltz: We've published two stories about Cambodia lately, and it seems it's about where Vietnam was 5 years ago--a magnet for adventursome travelers seeking to explore a place before mass tourism takes over. Yes, there are comfortable hotels, but the list is short and yes, the tourism infrastructure, particularly for transportion, is not very good. At the expensive hotels, I'm told, some English is spoken.

Washington, DC: When I go to the UK, I usually just check in with the Tourist Board, tell them how much I want to spend and generally where, and let them find me a room. -I'm planning to this in Dundee, Scotland, next week.-I've done this everywhere except London.

Re rail passes: the BritRail passes are only worthwhile "if you're traveling the length and breadth of the island, such as it is" -as a BR agent told me-. So London-Edinburg might work.
Otherwise, remember that most tickets allow the holder break the return journey as many times as desired -w-in 30 days, I think-. Then you can get inexpensive "day return" tickets off the main line. I've traveled all over the place this way, for far less than rail passes cost.

Also, buses are a worthwhile alternative, and even less expensive. The intercity bus lines have a web site that provides fares and schedules.

Craig Stoltz: Great stuff on UK travel, Washington. . .

Wash, DC: Hi Craig, this must be honeymooners day! We are getting married in October, and everyone is telling us that we should wait till spring to take our honeymoon, when the climate is better. We really don't want to wait, and are very open and flexible. Any ideas that would be suitable while in the midst of fall? Thanks.

Craig Stoltz: Your friends are lying to you. Fall is wonderful almost everywhere (OK, not so good in Costa Rica, other tropical climes, and Scandinavia gets sort of chilly, and the Caribbean hasn't quite cleared hurricane season in Oct.).

Why not Paris? Why not Tuscany? Why not Montreal? Northern California? Southern California? London. You may get some rain in European cities, but it's not like monsoon season. Fall is also a great time in Europe for small crowds, big deals.

San Francisco, CA: Love your chat! My husband and I are planning a first ever trip to Europe. Given we only have about 2 1-2 weeks, and don't want to return needing a vacation, where would you recommend going? Our hearts are set on Italy -Florence-Tuscany and perhaps Venice-. Is this too much or not enough?

Craig Stoltz: Spend a week in each of Florence/Tuscany and Venice and do a few side trips. But if you use those two bases there's not a lot of unpacking, and you get to really know your way around places--recognize shop owners, return to favorite bistros, etc. The small-itinerary approach is one of the best ways to travel.

Adams Morgan: For the Paris Hotel person:

I've heard wonderful things about the Hotel Esmeralda.
-4th arrondissment?- Apparently some of the rooms look out over Notre Dame. You should be able to find it in a guide book. An excellent source for Parisian hotels is www.paris.org
They post comments about each hotel from people who have stayed there.

Have a great time!

Craig Stoltz: Adams Mo. lends cosmopolitan flair to the discussion. . .

Alexandria, VA: Hi Craig,

What is your take on
Atlantis? Any opinions?

Craig Stoltz: Since it sunk into the sea so many centuries ago, rates are very reasonable and all have water views. . . .Oh, you mean the new big bold hotel in the Bahamas? Imagine Vegas with a beach. Silly, overstated, fun, not cheap--if you can find a deal and like over-the-top places, go for it. If you want class, peace and quiet, good value . .go elsewhere.

Washington, DC: For the New England visitor: When in Stowe, don't miss the tea room at the Trapp Family Lodge -the Sound of Music family still runs it- for lunch. Best Black Forest Cake anywhere. The other food is good, too! Lots of nice B&Bs just south of there in the Waitsfield area -near Sugar Bush-Mad River Glen-.

Craig Stoltz: Thanks, D.C.

Tunkhannock, PA: How is Ireland for offbeat summer vacations? We are considering a week long drive-stay package, but have also thought maybe we could just rent a car and drive around, picking our own places to stay. I'm worried that the drive-stay hotel vouchers might not be in nice places to stay and this is for our honeymoon.

Craig Stoltz: Ireland's great in summer, but off-beat it ain't. It's high season, with the Ring of Kerry and such areas packed with American tourists doing precisely what you describe. It's like going to Disney Christmas week. If you want peace and quiet, consider Scotland or Wales (avoid Edinborough in August). You can do the driving thing with fewer crowds, plenty of natural beauty.

Washington, D.C.: My family's going to the Grand Canyon this summer and we're considering a side trip to Las Vegas -- I've heard it's quite the family destination these days, what with theme-park-caliber amusements and attractions. What's your best advice -- is it really suitable for kids? Can you recommend any family-friendly hotels?

Craig Stoltz: Re-ask this question next Monday; our own John Deiner, intrepid traveler, is doing precisely the trip you describe as we chat.

Arlington: I whole-heartedly agree that the small itinerary approach is the best way to go. I'll never understand why people go to Europe and then spend all of their time on a train going from one city to the next day after day, the entire time they're there with no chance to really get to know any one place very well. Is this a uniquely American phenomenon?

Craig Stoltz: Couldn't agree more, Arlington--too many people seem to want to put new pins on their travel maps rather than absorb and enjoy places. Travel isn't competition, it's a chance to grow and learn and eat great stuff. And sleep in.

Oakton, VA: Can anyone reccomend a good hotel or inn in the Amalfi Coast region of Italy?

Craig Stoltz: What say you, clicksters?

Craig Stoltz: Well, that's all for today, fellow travelers. Be sure to check out next Sunday's ink-and-paper edition, in which we profile several new London hotels and take you on something that a lot of people consider the trip of a lifetime (we want it to be a surprise). If you can all remain seated until the captain has turned off the seatbelt sign. . .no pushing now! Hey, cut it out!. . . .