Talk About Travel: Transcript Hosted by Craig Stoltz Washington Post Travel Editor Monday, May 24, 1999

Craig Stoltz The Washington Post

This week's discussion dealt with air fare consolidators, travel to Boston, honeymooning in Ireland, and much more. A transcript is below, along with an archive of previous live discussions.

Craig Stoltz: Greetings once again, fellow exit row occupants, it's time again for The Post's weekly travel chat, the only online forum where we answer your questions--and you question our answers. Before we get onto the main event, two things:

1. No live chat next Monday, a k a Memorial Day. I recommend that we all spend the time doing what we always talk about here. (I'll be in Cleveland for the weekend, $78 round-trip on Metrojet our of BWI. Is my life rich, or what?)

2. Please gather up yesterday's Travel section from your recycling pile, or the office trash bin, or wherever. Why? The section's airline guy John Briley nearly died assembling an extremely thoroughgoing, remarkably useful story on airline consolidators (those small firms that offer deep-discount, highly restricted airline tickets)--and, best of all, he compiled two charts describing most top local and national ticket discounters you're likely to encounter (including complaint records). The charts, alas, are not (yet?) online, so ink-and-paper is the only way to get them for now. The charts put into your hands the tools you need to answer that essential frugal traveler's question: How can I get a low-fare ticket to [fill in the blank]? If you're not traveling any time soon, put the story away and save it--it'll be valuable for a long time.

Anyhow, enough hornblowing. Remember, no "lurking" out there--we want/expect/need/demand you chime in with your opinions, experiences and hints too. This forum gets more valuable with every contribution we receive.

Since we focused on airfare discounts yesterday, we'll be taking questions and comments on budget and discount travel--but will be happy to discuss anything on your mind.

In the unlikely event of a water landing, hold your seat cushion securely to your chest, proceed to the nearest exit and follow your flight attendants' directions. No, I'm sorry, you may not bring your carry-on down the slide, ma'am. Ma'am?. . . .

arlington va: craig -- what web sites offer the best last-minute fares for someone who wants to go on vacation for a week in europe in one month

Craig Stoltz: Using yesterday's consolidator chart, I consulted the Web site of Atlantic Fellowship, a D.C. based consolidator specializing in Europe [atlanticfellowship.com]. It's offering a range of European destinations, for May and June travel, beginning in the low $300s. I'm sure those prices go up with June departures, but check it out. I recently scheduled a trip to Spain using Spain Plus (a spinoff of Bargain Airfares, another local consolidator) and got a June departure to Barcelona for under $350. Again, prices'll have gone up since I booked, but consolidators can help you beat those scary $849-to-Rome-in-June quotes from the airlines.

I'm tellin' ya, yesterday's consolidator charts can change your life.

Wash, DC: Hi, I often use Expedia to look up fares and travel schedules, and after I find a good fare, I use all the info I have found and call that airline direct, as I am leary about making a reservation on-line that is not the airline itself. I am paranoid? My line of thinking is that if I were to have a problem, the on line company won't be able to give me good customer service and be able to help quickly if needed. Can you tell me any pros or cons to online reservations?

Craig Stoltz: At this point in history, there's no value to doing the booking online--except for (usually) 1,000 ff miles. I often use the sites for quotes and book direct. To be fair, when I have used an online agent (and I've used all four major ones more than once), I haven't had any problems. I usually request the tickets be mailed (rather than e-ticketing), and have had no problems at all. OK, one: I got paper tickets from Expedia, had to make a change, and had to go to the airline's local ticket counter to do it--or FedEx the ticket back to Expedia. That was kind of awkward. I suspect, but don't know, that a local agent could have made things easier. Certainly if I'd booked through the airline it would have been.

Anyone out there had bad experiences doing online bookings for air?

Springfield, VA : Thank God you're online today! My best friend and I have finally decided to spend 3 weeks in Spain at the end of this summer, after much debate over where to vacation in Europe during high season. The lowest airfare we've found at this late date is around $750...is this good or should we keep searching? Also, we've heard that getting around by train in Spain can be expensive and unreliable. We are backpacking-hostelling, and any tips on how to make this adventure as economical as possible would be greatly appreciated. thanks!

Craig Stoltz: Try Bargain Airfares or any other consolidator. I'm sure you can beat $750 (with highly restricted tickets, of course). Spain does have excellent trains running from Madrid (I'm booked for the high speed AVE (I think it's called) to Seville, 180 mph I'm told. But the network elsewhere can, I'm told, be funky. (We gave up on taking a train from Barcelona, for instance, which appeared too time-consuming for a 9-day trip). Spain of course has plenty of affordable paradors, hostel-like lodgings, but I'm told they are usually pretty booked for summer.

Clickster advice on affordable Spain? Rick Steves, by the way, the guru of under-budget backpackers everywhere, does have a Spain book; I suspect it's worth it for you.

Ashburn, VA: My husband and I -30s- want to vacation for a week-10 days. We've been to WDW, the NJ, DE, and MD beaches, Carribbean, San Francisco, Boston and Shreveport. Looking for a good mix of entertainment, adventure & physical activity, relaxation and moderate prices in the August - November timeframe. With those wide parameters, what would be your top 5 places? -we're open to air, land, and-or water traveling-

Craig Stoltz: For the quintessential leaf-peeping experience, try Asheville, an arty, urbane metropolis in North Carolina's Smoky mountains. Nice blend of sophistication (great shopping, particularly for art and unique clothing), adventurous restaurants, culture (Biltmore is there), great nature "stuff" like white water rafting, kayaking, cycling, hiking. Next choices: Montreal (particularly in August/September when the weather's getting cooler but not too crisp) for similar eclectic grab bag of activities. A
cruise to Bermuda is a cost-effective way to see that tlantic island. You've been to San Francisco -- what about California's Central Coast (roughly defined as Carmel on south to Hearst Castle and San Luis Obispo); gorgeous scenery, arty towns, wine-growing regions. Here's a wild card: San Miguel de Allende, about 3 hours from Mexico City; lovely colonial city, lots of history, art, interesting restaurants, lovely scenery. It's on my list for next vacation.

Burke, VA: We have friends in the U.K. who are planning a 3-week trip to New England in mid-to-late September. We aren't really impressed with what their travel agent has recommended--5 days in Vermont, 3 days in Martha's Vineyard, lovely but very pricey accommodations. We recommended the Berkshires, Newport, Mount Washington, and Boothbay Harbor to them. What do you think of these suggestions? Do you have others? What is a good source to find nice but reasonably-priced inns-B&B's in these areas?

Craig Stoltz: I'm particularly fond of www.innbook.com as a source for b&bs in the U.S. and Canada. Some are moderate, others are pricey, just depends on what amenities you want. I use it when planning my vacations. Another site is www.bbchannel.com; I've had middling success with that one. Where to go? In Maine, Boothbay Harbor (and Mt. Washington) are highly touristy; why not suggest a just-down-the-road spot like Belfast, which is a quaint arty town on Penobscot Bay and close enough to places like Camden and Boothbay for
daytripping. Instead of Newport, try Portsmouth, New Hampshire's main coastal town. Also in New Hampshire, Squam Lake (in the town of Holderness) is lovely and relatively serene. Burlington, Vermont is charming and eccentric. If there's time, why not cross the Canadian border and head for Montreal. Anybody been to Block Island in Rhode Island? We hear it's a neat alternative to the slick Martha's Vineyard, Cape Cod, Nantucket scene....

Chicago, IL: Are you able to suggest any strategies for buying business class Atlantic or Pacific airfares at far less than business class prices?

Craig Stoltz: skyauction.com offers business class seats for bid, usually at far less than you'd pay through conventional methods. (Look for Carolyn Brown's complete report on travel auctions in our June 6 issue).

Any other road warriors out there have advice about scoring business class at discount prices?

Washington, DC: HELP!!! My friend and I were supposed to go to London this past March, but for various reasons the plans fell through. Now, we would like to travel somewhere outside of the States the second week of August. Unfortunately, I know that this is the most expensive and crowded time in Europe. We are also a bit hesitant to travel to the Caribbean because of the hurricane season. We are very adventurous, have very flexible attitudes -we'll try anything-, and very poor. We cannot spend more than a week of vacation, have to travel the second week in August and cannot spend more than $1,000 total on the vacation. Any suggestions?

Craig Stoltz: Canada, my friend, Canada. Your dollar buys almost a half more there than it does here. There are lovely country places in the Laurentian Mountains (outside Montreal), gorgeous lakes outside Ottawa, the French areas of Quebec City, and lots of Maine-ish coast and natural beauty in the Maritime Provinces (the east coast). The big Rocky Mountain resorts are pricey in August, but you'll find bargains elsewhere.

Arlington: I do most of my research and bookings online. I've never had any trouble at all in the 6-10 times I've bought tickets that way. I also choose to have the tickets mailed to me, and my itineraries are generally pretty simple, altho I did do an open jaw, 3 leg trip to Europe last year that was no trouble.

Craig Stoltz: Thanks, Arlington.

Washington, DC: Hi Craig,

Ever been to British Columbia -- more specifically, the city of Victoria?

Is it the kind of place you just want to stop in for a few days, or could you do a week's vacation there?

Craig Stoltz: Victoria's fascinating (a couple hours ferry ride from Vancouver). You can easily do the downtown scene in a couple days -- public gardens, British-ey shops, ambiance, a nice harbor. If you have more time, explore beyond town. It's a huge draw for sailors, kayakers, cyclists. Stay tuned: we have a reporter there now. The story will appear sometime this summer.

Harrisburg,PA: Do you know if the French high-speed train, the TGV, goes from DeGaulle to Bordeaux? Have any readers ever taken it? Is it cheaper than flying?

Craig Stoltz: Brown has taken the train from Paris to Lyon, but not to Bordeaux. It's fabulous, says she. Tip: Get seats on the second deck, rather than the first floor, so you can see the countryside.

Any readers taken this specific route?

Torrington, CT: For the person with the friends coming from the UK to New England.....As a suggestion, I wouldn't leave Connecticut out of your plans. The shoreline has some excellent attractions -Mystic Seaport & Aquarium as an example-, beautiful beaches, and is only an hour or less by train or car from NYC if you want to take a day trip there. If you're looking for Inns or B&B's, try Litchfield County, in the NW corner of Connecticut. Colonial charm, elegance, and beautiful scenery at a price that won't break your budget.

Not that I'm partial to Connecticut or anything....!!!

Craig Stoltz: Great stuff. Litchfield: Yes.

Reston, VA: Here's a recommendation for Ashburn:

Head up the Pacific Coast from Seattle to SE Alaska the day after Labor Day. The crowds dwindle, the rates are better -- though food and lodging are still expensive -- and, the ULTIMATE Fall foliage ride awaits: Haines, AK to Haines Junction, YT. Peak color is the week after Labor Day. Don't do a cruise. Take the BC and Alaska ferries. They are inexpensive, adventurous and fun.

Craig Stoltz: Yo Reston!

arlington, va: Is there something about DC
that makes people so happy to
leave it? I think the reason people say with conviction how long they've been in town is that's how long they have resisted the urge to flee DC. Isn't it possible that's why locals are such inveterate travelers? Thanks, A Fan

Craig Stoltz: I turn this one over to our vast clicking audience. What say ye, clicksters? Why do you want outta here so bad?

St. Joseph, Missouri: Do you or perhaps the other chatters out there have any recommendations for honeymooning in Ireland this fall? Should we rent a car or perhaps hire a driver? Any ideas for staying in castles that are not completely Americanized?

Craig Stoltz: St. Jo asking *us* for advice? Unimaginable.

Having said that, I turn to our audience. We do have an upcoming story on the less-known joys of County Clare, so keep an eye out for that.

Hollywood MD: I have done several bookings online using E-tickets. Never have I encountered any problems. If I needed to make minor changes, I called the airlines directly after making the reservations and they usually made the changes for me as long as there wasn't a price difference or an itenery change. Picking up the E-tickets at the airports has been a breeze and from now on I really believe this is the way to do travel. Its cheaper and less stressful. I recommend it.

Craig Stoltz: Thanks, Hollywood! (Hollywood?)

Washington, DC: I've done E-ticket several times--for myself and for children who live on the west coast. It was especially easy to email them the itinerary I received from Expedia via email. They could print it out and have all the info needed when they left. Also no worries about getting a FedEx to them when they are never home.

Since I have been known to lose a ticket between the counter and the shuttle, I love E-ticketing. Susan

Craig Stoltz: Another vote for e-ticketing; it's all sounding pretty positive for paperless travel. . . .

Washington DC: Hi Craig! Just found your book Kid-O-Rama at Starbucks, at long last. I'm looking forward to making good use of it. My immediate question, though, is about Disney World in FL. I have a 2 and a half year old son. We will be in Boca Raton, FL with a car for 5 days over July 4th weekend. Is it worth a side trip to Disney World at his age, or should we wait until next year when we will have to drag around an infant as well? I would like to let him have a trip "to himself" while he can, but I just can't tell if he would appreciate it enough to make it worth the effort and $$$. Thanks!

Craig Stoltz: Don't do it. Your kid won't remember it, and you'll just spend a lot of times wishing he was old enough to really appreciate it. Not only that, it's *expensive,* and shouldn't be squandered. At that age, any place in the beach to play in the sand and bounce around in the shallow waves will be stimulation plenty.

Washington, DC: We're going to San Diego in July. Can you recommend some must-see places that are less touristy than say, Sea World and the zoo? Something that will give us a good taste of the area. Thanks.

Craig Stoltz: Definately go to the Wild Animal Park, less crowded than the Zoo and amazing--the animals are in giant, veldt-like expanses rather than cages, and you take a monorail around the park to see them all. Also, when doing the inevitable afternoon in LaJolla, after you've shopped and seen the seals, look for LaJolla cave. It's a tiny passage down into the cliffs; you emerge in a cave that lets you see right out into the water. It's no big deal, but a nice diversion.

Washingtonpost.com: Tomorrow on this site, from 11 a.m. to noon EST, Craig and co-author John Kelly will be online to discuss the Kid-O-Rama book. Check the homepage for a link to the discussion.

Herndon, VA: I am going to be traveling to Boston in June. Do you have any favorite places to go or things to do in and around the city?

Craig Stoltz: We can tell you the same old stuff--shopping on Newbury Street, walking through Cambridge, the dorky Liberty Trail, the Common with the swans, the Computer Museum that desoerately needs rebooting--but we turn to our clicksters for advice. Hot/hip/less exposed Boston, anyone?

(OK, we sort of enjoyed Salem, and the walk along the Charles River near the Science Museum too. And we did a story not long ago about South Boston, which is definately off the beaten track but may float your boat.)

Washington, DC: Two things:

Online Ticketing. I've used Expedia almost exclusively for the past two years and have never had any problem. I've done both paper tickets and e-tickets, but I now prefer the latter in most cases because of the convenience. I also print out the verification of my ticket purchase to carry with me just in case. I use their service regularly, so I give them my business.

Question about Travel Deals to Europe: One of the best travel sites I've found is Frommers, and every day they put out an online newsletter with new deals. The url for the newsletter is http:--www.frommers.com-newsletters-today-contents.html. The site overall is pretty useful

Craig Stoltz: Thanks, D.C. Brown checks out the Frommer's deals daily; it's a decent rehash of deals you can get lots of other places. And some of the info is not fresh.

Reston, VA: In response to Arlington's question: Why do all the Parisians leave Paris in August? Seriously, I think it's difficult to appreciate the virtues of one's home turf, especially since one is usually encumbered with responsibilities on one's home turf.

Last fall I resolved to do more "touristy" things in DC. I try to take in at least one show or exhibit every 6 weeks. Know what? The DC area is hard to beat in many ways. Just don't ask me where we went on vacation this year.
<smirk>

Craig Stoltz: Good stuff, Reston (so why don't you move into town, huh?)

St. Joseph, Mo.: Hello fellow St. Joseph clickster! I didn't know there was a second one of ye out there. this is the original St. Joe clickster. Maybe the post should offer delivery out here. I'm a trend setter!
Last week's question about road trips to see where specific kinds of beer brought to mind a friend's visit to LaTroube -excuse the horrible spelling-, Pa. He was a big fan of Rolling Rock beer, and he and a friend went there, expecting to find a plant tour, etc. Well, this was six years ago, and I don't know if things have changed, but they arrived on a Thursday -or perhaps Wed.-to discover half of the stores there closed due to some sort of country's tradition of closing on Thursday p.m. Then they went to the plant, and discovered there is no gift shop, no tour. The receptionist was so baffled she sent the company pres. out to see them. They eventually found a shop which sold Rolling Rock logo wear and bought some stuff, camped in the mountains, etc., and they thought this was a great trip.
So, in other words, if you are visiting a regional brewery, you may enjoy it, but don't expect a tour.

Craig Stoltz: My god, two readers in St. Jo! (Must be something about workplace supervision in the midwest. . . .) Good tip on Latrobe.

McLean, VA: A must for the San Diego visitor is Cabrillo National Monument, which is way up on a cliff at the end of Point Loma. It's only $4 a car to get in, and the view of the city and harbor is fantastic. There are also nice tidal pools on the ocean side of the point.

Another idea is to call around the Navy bases and ask about ships that are open for tours to the public. Every weekend a ship is designated as the "visit ship," and tourists are welcome to come aboard for a guided tour. The air stations may have aircraft displays as well, but I don't think they are every weekend--those lazy aviators.

I agree with the Wild Animal Park suggestion. It's way cool.

Craig Stoltz: Thanks, McLean. I stayed for a couple of days on Shelter Island, which faces several military facilities, and just seeing all that massive hardware from a distance is a sight. It also keeps the city from feeling too cute and clever--gives it a grounded feeling.

Silver Spring, MD: Responding to Arlington about why Washingtonians like to get out of town: I thought it was just me - I make lots of day trips to Baltimore, Philadelphia, Charlottesville, Easton, wherever. It may just be the congestion, or maybe it's just the pace of life here with all the other intense Washingtonians...
Any body else ?

Craig Stoltz: Yo SS!

Alexandria, VA: How good are the airfare discounters if you are NOT flexible on dates and locations. For example, if I want to go to London on a direct flight from Dulles on a Thursday, and come back on a Tuesday on particular dates, is it worth calling them?

Craig Stoltz: It's worth a call, but you're less likely to get what you need, of course. Lack of flexibility is the curse--maybe killer--of discount travel. But: Call the big consolidators who rep lots of airlines (see our chart in yesterday's paper). They tend to have bigger inventory.

Reston, VA: Re things to do-see in Boston: Any person who has the least interest in sports should try to take in a baseball game at Fenway Park. You can take in the ambiance and start to understand what the Red Sox mean to the locals.

Craig Stoltz: Indeed. I've been lucky enough, and it's one of those quintessential Boston-no, American-experiences.

Fairfax VA: Were planning on taking a family vacation to the beach. I've heard good things about Emerald Isle, NC. Looking for the opposite of Ocean City, MD. Would EI be the place??

Craig Stoltz: We're clueless on Emerald Isle. Clicksters?

Baltimore, MD: RE: Boston, I always enjoy visiting the Museum of Science. It's huge and the interactive exhibits are great.

Craig Stoltz: Yes, indeed. They have a staircase that plays a different musical note when you step on each step. Not sure what that "teaches," but it sure got me to act foolish in public.

Fairfax, VA: For the Boston question--
As a lifetime Bostonian I would be remiss if I didn't chime in with 2 cents. Definitely don't miss the North End. SUndays are especially great with family parades and festivities. Hit Felicia's off Salem Street for excellent pastries. Also, rent some bikes and take a pedal down the Minuteman trail--the most used bike path in the country. Just some suggestions.

Craig Stoltz: Thanks a lot, Fairfax.

Arlington: re: doing Disney with small child:

I agree. Don't do it. Boca Raton isn't exactly right next door to Orlando. People don't realize how large Florida really is until they actually start driving, and it won't be a pleasant drive, especially in July.

As for things to do in Boston. Make sure to go to Little Italy. Lots of cute, narrow streets and incredible food.

Craig Stoltz: Thanks, Arlington.

Washington DCA: Are you really going to CLE this weekend? I'm actually jealous; nice weather, flowers blooming, lots to do, good culture and architecture, pretty inexpensive.... Are we really supposed to feel sorry for you? Enjoy!!!

Craig Stoltz: Truth told, I grew up in Cleveland; this is one of my few recent visits. Haven't been to the Rock Hall yet, and last time I took a cruise down the Cayahoga River, it was bright orange and in the next year caught on fire. I'm looking forward to seeing it again. . . .

Washington, DC: For the traveler going to Spain on a budget: I took the AVE from Madrid to Sevilla and it was a wonderful way to go. Took both buses and trains throughout the rest of Southern Spain -and to some very small towns- and the only problem we had was when the time changed and no one told us -Spanish version of daylight savings time, I guess-. Some of the bus rides -through the mountains into the interior of Andalucia near Ronda- were quite spectacular -- albeit a bit frightening -bus kept hitting tree branches-

Craig Stoltz: Thanks, Washington.

Farrgut Square, DC: Craig:
In response to the question about on-line booking versus calling, I recently had an experience where I used a consolidator's web site to cost out tickets for 2 adults & 2 kids to Israel via stopover in London this summer. the cheapest fare on the consolidator was via British Air, with no stopovers permitted. When I called British Air to double check, I found that they could give me the identical fare, with a free stopover in London, and 25% off the kids' fares, plus advance seat assignments. the consolidator would not do any advance seat assignments, saying these had to be made at the gate before departure. In my mind, that feature alone would make it worth it not to book on line.

Thanks for these chats!

Craig Stoltz: Very useful stuff, Farragut Square. Yes indeed, it always pays to call the standard retailer to see how much--or whether--you actually "save" with a consolidator. The more complex your needs, the less useful a consolidator. Their strength is point-to-point, international, high-volume destinations.

Alexandria VA: Hi Craig, My cyber-challenged friend, age 52, wants to take her mother -mid-70s- on a short cruise next year, Feb-Mar timeframe. Which of the cruise lines would you recommend for a short -3-4 day- cruise for 2 ladies of those ages? -They are not looking to hook up with gentlemen on the cruise.-

Craig Stoltz: Says Brown: For the most part, the short-term cruise lines (Carnival, Royal Caribbean) are aimed at the contemporary crowd rather than more sedate cruisers. I believe Silversea (one of the best-rated, highest-costing luxury lines) does a short cruise around that time of the year. Anybody else have any suggestions?

Boulder, Colorado: I know you did a piece on US spas a while ago, but I'm wondering about European spas, eg, in the Czech Republic -Marianske Lazne-Marienbad or Karlovy Vary-Karlsbad-. Are they just for sick, old Europeans or can 2 women in their early-mid 30's have a good time with mud baths, massages, etc.?

Craig Stoltz: Says Brown: Don't know anything about Czech spas but I did spend a few days in a really odd, interesting Austrian spa called Rogner Bad-Blumau (about two hours from Vienna); the architect, a famous Viennese eccentric, is famous for his "straight line is evil" themes....

Ashburn, VA: RE: Boston

To my surprise, the tour of the USS Constitution was a LOT of fun and educational, too. Recommend that you take the ferry over. Also the view and history lesson on top of the Trade Tower -?- was breathtaking and I learned that most of Boston was part of the water, years ago. Go right before dusk to see the transition from light to dark.

Craig Stoltz: Lot of Boston partisans here. . . .

Bethesda: RE: Boston, If you like baseball at all, you should go to Fenway. It won't be there in a few years. If you do go to Fenway, make sure you get a sausage and peppers sub from one of the venders outside of the park. Yum. Also the freedom trail. Its touristy, but a great way to exercise the sausage sub off!

Craig Stoltz: Mo Bo Go!

St. Joseph, Mo.: I lived in eastern N.C. and visited Emerald Isle often. It's a great place; much smaller than Ocean City and I think charming. If you go there, there isn't a lot of hotel development but there is lots of residential. The way to go would be to rent a vacation house. -The Convention and Visitors Bureau there could probably give you guidance on that.- From EI, you MUST visit: New Bern, charming colonial town about one hour away -home of the reconstructed governor's mansion Tryon Palace-, Beaufort and Morehead City -both within a half-hour of Emerald Isle and beautiful. Love both of them-. this area is touristed but not NEARLY as bad as Ocean City. I'd recommend it wholeheartedly if you like a fairly quiet beach. The convention and visitors bureau there is 1-800-SUNNYNC. You'll love it.

Craig Stoltz: Now we don't know *which* St. Jo to thank. Maybe we need numbers for you guys. But thanks anyway.

Silver Spring, MD: I've never heard of Emerald Isle, but most of the towns below Nags Head are great, Rodanthe, Waves, Salvo, Avon, Buxton. There are several real estate companyies who will send a catalog of homes. Old beach houses, casual atmosphere, miles of sand and very few of those Washingtonians littering the landscape discussing the "inside the Beltway" issues.

Craig Stoltz: Great stuff. A longer drive than the Outer Banks, but it seems to be worth it. . ..

McLean, VA: A great resource for cheap last-minute trips is the magazine "Arthur Frommer's Budget Travel." They have unbelievable deals like a week in Morocco including air, hotel, and all meals for $900. It's organized by region, ie Europe, South America, etc.

I found a great trip to Ireland that included air, rental car, and accomodations for $600 for one week--way less than summertime airfare. Of course it was early March, but still worth it.

Craig Stoltz: Thanks, McLean. Yes, we find Frommer's one of the few useful, down-to-earth travel mags--most are just compilations of writers' fantasies undertaken while enjoying complimentary lodgings.

Dallas, Tx: St. Jo, Mo- RE: Ireland
Whether to hire a car or use a driver is a matter of comfort. I've hired a car and enjoyed myself immensely. I've also driven on the left side of the road before so that doesn't intimidate me. Depending on money and time, you might start with a driver to get used to seeing left side drivers-driving then hire a car later for an adventure and avoiding the large cities. I can't advise on castles, why not book good B&Bs as you go?

Craig Stoltz: We seem to have a regional debate going on here. . . .

Re: Castles. I'm told many of the castle dinners are quite commercial, not much more authentic or sophisticated than those Shining Knight shows at the Meadowlands.

Mt. Rainier MD: Boston was the center of the universe for the American abolition movement. Any traces of this history left in the city? I know William Lloyd Garrison lived there and published the Liberator for 4 - 5 decades.

Craig Stoltz: Good question, Mt. Rainier. Anybody?

Torrington, CT: I have had a bad experience with E-Ticketing the one time I've used it. I was in Puerto Rico during the American Airlines Pilot's work stoppage in February. After two days or run-arounds, American finally booked me on another airline. However, because I had an E-Ticket, I had to stand in American's line, get the ticket validated, then proceed to my new airline's counter. All in all, I spent 5 hours in line, all because of an electronic ticket. For my money....go with the paper ticket. It will save you alot of hassle in the long run if a situation like this ever occurs again.

Craig Stoltz: Yes, this is the situation where e-ticketing is a real liability. And one experience like this will swear people off digital travel for a long time.

Washington, DC: We're trying to go to Buenos Aires and Santiago, Chile, in late June-early July for two weeks? Are we really stupid? We don't mind cold weather, but do hate mindless tourist crowds, so we thought we'd try it. Any suggestions for sidetrips? hotels? excursions? food and restaurants?

We'll take something -hovercraft or ferry?- across to Montevideo for a day or so. Anything special there?

Would appreciate any tips. Thanks.

Craig Stoltz: Buenos Aires is the so-called Paris of South America; to me it felt like Paris, London, Vienna, etc. all rolled in to one. Fascinating. And I don't think you're stupid; I've been there in June and it was crisp but manageable.

Re Montevideo. Two things. Don't go on a Sunday because everything is closed. Two, when you do go, look for the market near the port (ask for the name, it's a major destination for locals). Fabulous place to eat. Like Baltimore's Lexington Market but some of the stalls actually have carved out little restaurants.

McLean, VA: Regarding "castles" in Ireland, another scam is the castle hotel. Some of them are cruddy looking pre-fab buildings situated next to a pile of rubble that used to be a castle. Not all are like that, but find out first before making reservations.

Craig Stoltz: Great, thanks again, McLean.

Wash Dc: For the honeymooners in Ireland -- try Cabra Castle in County Cavan --- beautiful building and grounds -- near Newgrange -- stay in the stable rooms -- they are even nicer than the Castle rooms -- we got married there last year -- tell em Niall and Myra sent ya!

Craig Stoltz: Great tip, D.C.

Chantilly, VA: I'm attempting to plan a vacation for myself and wife for our 10th anniversary. We like the beach and have enjoyed the less populated areas of the Carribean in the past. Thinking BUDGET minded. I heard Belize might be a good destination. Your thoughts?ps - will travel in summer.

Craig Stoltz: Two words: Punta Cana

Washington DC: Re: leaving DC. I think so many locals travel out so much because there are always so many tourists traveling in. Tourists in DC are worse than anywhere else I've been -which is mostly NYC-. That's why I love August in DC so much -- the crowds dwindle out of fear of our enormous heat -- which has never been that bad in my opinion -- and the locals all go on vacation. You can go to restaurants, museums, movies, all without the absurd crowds and lines. Although I like to spend a week at the beach, I spend the rest of August RIGHT HERE.

Craig Stoltz: A D.C. defender who votes with his/her feet!

dc: Hi,
Just thought you would be interested to know that the folks at R&R Realty are charging IN-SEASON outrageous prices for their beach houses in the Outer Banks, NC for New Year's Eve week. Luckily, I found another realtor -B & B On the Beach- who hasn't read your chats !

Craig Stoltz: Thanks, D.C. Sounds like a good reason to use other realtors--and act fast if the Outer Banks is in your Y2K plans.

washington, dc: One warning on online booking: keep a photocopy of your online booking. The airline I book with has its online service done by a totally separate company which --on one occasion only-- gave me a paper ticket when I asked for e-ticket. I blissfully showed up at the gate counter and discovered that the company was supposed to have sent me a paper ticket. I was then given two choices: 1. miss the flight and go buy a reissue -at the same discounted price- or 2. buy a full fare on the spot and catch that plane. I can get the money back on the reissue but not a full fare. Print out your online receipts and keep all pieces of paper the company sends you---which, come to think of it, might defeat the purpose of e-tickets.

Craig Stoltz: Still more good advice on e-travel. . . .

Fairfax, VA: A Non-Travel Question:
I knew a Craig Stolze in South Dakota years ago. He was a sports writer. Are you related to him?

John Arnold
josarn-erols.com

Craig Stoltz: All I can figure is, this "Craig Stoltz" guy who was a sportswriter in South Dakota has (or had) lots of fans--or, more likely, was a better writer--because people ask me about him more than they do about me. But no, he's a different guy.

And on this strange non-sequitur we end this week's session of Travel Chat. Remember: We're off duty next Monday. We'll see you in two weeks. Meantime, on ink-and-paper: I-95 North and Brown's update on travel auctions. And may the upgrades be with you.