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Talk About Travel: Transcript

Hosted by Craig Stoltz
Washington Post Travel Editor
Monday, June 7, 1999

   


Travel Editor Craig Stoltz
Craig Stoltz
The Washington Post
Every Monday at 2 p.m., Washington Post travel editor Craig Stoltz joins us for our weekly live travel discussion.

In this week's discussion, The Post's Travel staff held forth on summer road trips. A transcript is below, along with an archive of previous live discussions.

Washington Post Travel editors: Welcome to this week's travel chat, where our motto is, "If we haven't been there, someone else has.' Travel editor Craig Stoltz can't be with us today, but the rest of us--staff writers Gary Lee and Roger Piantadosi, and editors John Deiner and K.C. Summers--are here in his stead, braced for your questions/comments/horror stories/tips/compliments... Hit us!


Arlington, VA: Loved your I-95 guide last week, but I noticed you left out Boston, New York and other large cities between DC and the Canadian border. Not much doing there, eh?

Washington Post Travel editors: Very observant of you! Yes, we decided to leave out NYC, Boston and other megalopalises
on the way north because we figured most folks heading New England-ward would want to bypass
those congested areas. Also, their charms aren't exactly unsung…our mission was to focus on
smaller, lesser-known and more accessible burgs that our readers may not have heard about.
Keep those suggestions coming, by the way -- we're always up for new I-95 survival tips.


Alexandria, VA: Can someone suggest a romantic spot in Paris to pop the question? How about indoor or outdoor locations, in case the weather's bad?

Washington Post Travel editors: Says Gary Lee, our resident Parisian: There are so many great possibilities, it's hard to narrow it down to two places. But: One excellent place is the bridge behind Notre Dame, which has a sweeping view of Paris and is particularly romantic at dusk. It's called the Pont de la Tournelle. Indoors, I would suggest Jules Verne, which is the restaurant in the middle of the Eiffel Tower. It's a bit touristy but you can't beat that view. Bonne chance!


Boston, MA: I am showing my daughter America. Do you have any quick
weekend trips by car in mind?

Washington Post Travel editors: Says Roger Piantadosi, editor of our weekly Escapes feature to nearby destinations:
Not sure if you're looking for historic sites, or places that help illustrate modern-day America. You didn't say how old your daughter is, but if I wanted to start off a series of educational/fun trips, I'd start where America more or less started, I'd make the trek to Philadelphia -- an easy 2.5-hour drive up I-95 to a city that has managed to overcome--especially for visitors--the hard times and ugliness that ruined its "Brotherly Love" reputation in the '50s through the '80s. There's a lot going on, and as the city prepares for next year's national convention, hotel rooms are blossoming and not inconceivably expensive, especially in summer. Penn's Landing, where namesake William Penn docked his ship "Welcome" 300 years ago, is now a 37-acre riverside park with a great new Seaport Museum and its tour-able schooners and a small amphitheater. The city of the Liberty Bell, of course, was the seat of the revolutionary government, the place where the Declaration of Independence was born, plus the First Continental Congress and the Constitution. And Independence National Historical Park, with Independence Hall as its centerpiece, is the focal point of Olde Town Philadelphia (and is about to undergo a major facelift, much like the rest of Philadelphia). Not far from Philadelphia are the sites of major Revolutionary War battles at Valley Forge and Brandywine, and all these places have other non-historic, kid-friendly attractions.


Arlington, VA: HI, This is not a question but a word of thinks to the responses I got about a month ago regarding dining choices in Duck ,NC. The Blue Point Grill was highly recommended and did not disappoint!! I can also recommend Sorrel in Corolla for those of you heading to the 'banks this summer.

Washington Post Travel editors: Great feedback, Arlington!


Arlington, Va: I'm bouncing around Francem Italy, and Spain for a month with a companion. Do you have a guide to how much ready cash or travelers checks two people would need to carry. We do have credit cards including some that can be used at ATMs.

Washington Post Travel editors: If you use ATM cards this should be your main method of getting local currency in either of those three countries. As you probably know, the ATM allows you to withdraw money directly from your home bank account in the local currency. However, we always recommend taking some traveler's checks as a backup. If you're staying for a month, take about $500 a month in traveler's checks per person.


Laurel, MD: In your I95 article, you mention the Cliff Walk in RI. Could you give the direction to get there from I95. Do you have to purchase the tour package? We just want to do a short stop over.

Washington Post Travel editors: The Cliff Walk -- a winding, three-mile footpath along Newport, R.I.'s Atlantic coastline
-- is a great way to see the city's famous mansions -- from the back door, literally. And you
get all that dramatic crashing surf as a backdrop. No, you don't have to purchase the tour
package to do it -- access is free. Just wear sturdy shoes (the footing gets a bit dicey in
places). You hear a lot about the glitz of Newport, but it's not all yachts and mansions;
it's also a very charming, historic city with wonderful old neighborhoods. We definitely
recommend a stopover if you're headed north (and can spare the time). Admittedly, it is a bit
of a haul to get there from I-95 -- at least half an hour's drive. To get to Newport from
I-95 north: Take Exit 3 and follow Route 138 east, toward the ocean; go over the Jamestown
and Newport bridges and take the first exit for downtown Newport. It's easy to find the Cliff
Walk and the mansions from the center of town -- just follow the signs.


Lanham, MD: My friends and I are traveling on driving to Canada in a couple of weeks. What kind of papers do we need to get across the border? Love ya, you're great!

Washington Post Travel editors: At least two of us on staff who have driven to Canada recently were not required to show any papers -- just had to answer some questions from the border guards. But it's a good idea to have papers. According to the State Department, U.S. citizens entering Canada from the U.S. need a U.S. passport or proof of U.S. citizenship and photo ID. You don't need a visa if you're staying less than 180 days. More advice from the State Department: Anyone with a criminal record (including a DWI charge) should contact the Canadian Embassy or nearest Consulate before travel. For further information on entry requirements: Embassy of Canada, 501 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Washington, D.C. 20001, 202-682-1740, http://www.cdnemb-washdc.org.


Arlington, Va: Hey Gang,

Thanks for filling in for Craig. Travel junkies of the DC Metro area appreciate it. I'm going to Amsterdam this week and am curious about something. Several people have teased me about mistakenly going in to "hash bars." Are hash bars easily differentiated from regular bars? Do regular bars sell hash? How safe is Amsterdam compared with other European capitals? Are there certain sections that should be avoided?

Thank-you

Washington Post Travel editors: First of all, the "hash bars" are distinguishable from other bars. You'll see a sign or insignia out front. They're quite popular among locals, but they are known as specialty bars, the way martini bars would be in the States. The whole city is quite friendly and accessible, and fairly safe. There is a red light district which you might steer clear of, unless that's where you want to be. Regular bars do not sell hash. Also, if you're interested in hash, do go to a bar. You might be offered hash on the street, but getting it in a bar is a much safer environment.


Washington DC: My mom and sister are meeting me in New York next week, and I'm in charge of finding out about Broadway shows. Do you know of any good websites for finding out what's playing and what we could get cheap tickets for?

Washington Post Travel editors: There's a great site that will link you to all the shows playing now in New York--Broadway or otherwise, and in all five boroughs. The site is administered by the Theatre Development Fund, which runs the TKTS booths in Times Square and the World Trade Center. The address is www.tdf.org; to check on a particular show, hit the "Search NYC/Onstage" button on the left side of TDF's home page. It will tell you the show's schedule, seat prices and any other pertinent info; if the show has its own Web site, you can
head there as well. The whole thing is updated daily. As far as discount tickets go, we can't vouch for any sites that can help you. Anyone out there know of one?


Washington, DC: Craig, I have got to get out of the city! I love living here but work a zillion hours a week. So, I need a place to go that I can do everything in only half a day. Is there anything close by where friends and I can go hiking, biking, boating, etc. We are not early risers.

Thanks!

Washington Post Travel editors: He's not Craig, but our regional getaway expert Roger Piantadosi says: Get yourself to Thurmont, Md.! It's about an hour from DC. You want to go to two parks near Thurmont. Cunningham Falls State Park has great trails, some of which lead to the namesake falls, which you can wade in in warm weather. It also has a lake for swimming. Catoctin Mountain Park also has great trails, including one for horseback riding. Alarm clocks are not allowed in either park. (Joke.)


Mount Airy, MD: Sorry, not a question - but along the same lines as the person who ate at the Blue Point Inn in Duck, NC - another restaurant that won't disappoint is the Red Sky Cafe almost right across the road from Blue Point. It's really yummy!

Washington Post Travel editors: Thanks, Mount Airy.


Washington, DC: I'm planning a late summer or early fall reunion for a group of about 15 friends, probably a three or four day weekend -if only I could sell the working world on the four-day weekend concept!- We're scattered across the United States, so we can hold it anywhere close enough to a major airport that people can fly in. We'd like to rent a house or condo -- something where we're not all in separate hotel rooms on separate floors. Oh, and we'd like to keep the cost under $200 a person. Is that possible? Can you suggest places to go or reference guides to places that might work? Thanks!

Washington Post Travel editors: This is one of the most common questions we get, and we published a story last winter on this very subject. Check it out on our Web site (byline: Elise Hartman Ford; headline: It's All Relative; date: 1/3/99). We rounded up a dozen options for a wide range of styles and preferences. Most were in the Mid-Atlantic region or along the East Coast. We also listed several sources for further info.
Anybody out there have other suggestions?


Rockville, MD: Re: cheap tix in NYC, I don't know of a site, but standing room tickets, especially for matinees, can really stretch your budget. Unless you can't stand for long periods, you won't get tired, as the show will keep you so entertained!

Washington Post Travel editors: Interesting suggestion, Rockville.


Tampa, Florida: Hi! I'm getting married in May 2000 and am thinking about the Caribbean for the honeymoon. Can you suggest a resort that has lots of privacy and great service? Thanks!

Washington Post Travel editors: Gary Lee, who owns a house in the Caribbean, says: There are lots to choose from. One favorite at the high end of the spectrum is Cap Jaluca in Anguilla. It's perfect and romantic. Another, a bit less expensive, is the Jalousie Hilton in St. Lucia. Finally, on my very own favorite island, Tobago, there is the Grand Courlan hotel. Any one of of these would make an excellent full-service honeymoon spot. Anyone else out there got a favorite Caribbean resort?


Fairfax, VA: My husband wants to drive to NYC and see a Broadway show. Do we have to get the tickets in advance?

Washington Post Travel editors: Yes, if you want to see a really hot show. Or, you can always pay the big bucks and get tickets through your concierge. Otherwise, you can just go down to the TKTS booth (Times Square or World Trade Center) for half-price, same-day shows. Tip: The World Trade Center booth offers a minimum number of matinee tickets one day in advance.


Fairfax, VA: Hello. My sister and I are planning an 11 day vacation in California--starting in SF and ending in LA. We've allocated two days to drive down to LA. Can you suggest some sights along the way? We're both in our 20s.
Thanks!

Washington Post Travel editors: Don't miss San Simeon -- that's right along the way, about 45 minutes south of San Francisco. Make sure you call ahead for reservations. There are numerous tours offered, but they're not cheap. There's also Monterey, which is lovely -- it has a new aquarium, and the 17-Mile Drive, which goes through Pebble Beach Golf Course and winds along the ocean. There's also Santa Barbara, which is nice just to stop for a meal and to walk around and window-shop. And a fun place to stay overnight is the Madonna Inn, which features theme rooms, like the Caveman Room (trust us).


Centreville, VA: For the person traveling to Amsterdam. It is a gorgeous city! I was there for 2 weeks last year. Many things to do and see. A canal trip is one thing to do, as well as take a trip out to The Hague. You will want to visit The house of Ann Frank and possibly the Rembrant museum.

How you can distiguish between hash bars and regular bars is the hash bars are "coffee shops". They will signs out that say "Han's Coffee Shop" Most of the bars are hash free, but you will run into encounters of people smoking up usually out on the streets. Just be careful of the Red Light District. That is where majority of the coffee shops are.

Washington Post Travel editors: Thanks for the input, Centreville.


Manssas, VA: My friend & I are taking a trip to Nashville this weekend. Any suggestions on "must see or do" things to capture the true flavor of the city? We are especially interested in the music scene. Thanks!

Washington Post Travel editors: This is kind of obvious advice, but the Grand Ole Opry captures the flavor of Nashville more than anything else -- don't miss it. The Country Music Hall of Fame, Ryman Auditorium, any of the music bars downtown -- you can't go wrong. We haven't been there in a couple of years, though -- any readers been there more recently with suggestions on bars or restaurants?


St. Joseph, Mo.: A lovely stop between SF and LA is Filoli, a beautiful home owned by the National Trust for Historic Preservation that has about 100 acres of gardens. The house itself was built in the 1920s for some kind of tycoon -of course-. Great side trip, about an hour south of SF. Another great place is Pacific Grove, a little village of a town about 3 hours south of SF -appx. time-. The seven gables inn, pictured in a Visa commercial several years ago, is there. The Inn overlooks the ocean, as does most of the little town. Didn't stay there, but would have if I had know in advance. I think that is much more charming than Monterey and not so overrun.

Washington Post Travel editors: Yeah, but do they have a Caveman Room?


St. Joseph, Mo.: Forgive me for having to ask, but what shows are considered hot right now? What ones are easier to get tickets to?

Washington Post Travel editors: Amy's View, with Judi Dench; You're a Good Man, Charlie Brown; Death of a Salesman, with Brian Dennehy (just won best drama revival, and others); Fosse; Side Man; Wit (won the Pulitzer this year, playing off-Broadway); Annie Get Your Gun (just won for best musical). These shows won most of the major Tonys last night and are bound to be hot sellers.


Washington, D.C.: I'll be traveling to several destinations in Europe this summer, including London Paris and Berlin. What is the best and most economical way to get around within those cities?

Washington Post Travel editors: In each of those cities, you're best off taking the subway or Metro. All three cities have quick, convenient systems. The cheapest method of traveling in those systems is to buy a farecard, which, for instance, in Paris, would be a week-long ticket; or in Berlin, a three-day ticket; or in London, a four-day ticket. They are all excellent values over what it would cost to pay for each trip.


washington, dc: Re: Nashville trip. As a former resident of the city, I'd also suggest going to the Blue Bird Cafe to see great live music, usually an up and coming talent, and always a fun place. The downtown area has really grown in the past few years, some fun bars there are Flying Saucer and Havana Lounge. Two wonderful options for dinner are South Street and The Boundary, both located by Vanderbilt University and 21st St.

Washington Post Travel editors: Thanks, DC!


Germantown, MD: To Tampa,
Regarding the Caribbean, we went to Tortola, BVI last year for our honeymoon and stayed at Long Bay Beach resort. Excellent. The resort is really a series of villias dotted along a mountainside overlooking the beach and glorious water. You can't miss. Near the top-rated Sugar Mill restaurant.

Washington Post Travel editors: Another good honeymoon suggestion. Thanks, Germantown.


Fairfax, VA: My girlfriend and I are headed to Longwood Gardens in PA this weekend. Do you recommend anything else in that area for a detour?

Washington Post Travel editors: A lot of the Dupont mansions, now indoor/outdoor museums, are in the area. We can recommend Winterthur (museums, gardens and library) in Chadds Ford, Pa.; the Hagley Museum just outside Wilmington; and Nemours Mansion and Gardens, also outside Wilmington. And if you're tired of Dupont excesses, you can check out the excellent excesses of three generations of Wyeths at the Brandywine River Museum in Chadds Ford. (PS -- you'd know all these things if you had a copy of "Escape Plans," The Post's guide to getting out of town, $9.95 at most area bookstores and Amazon.com! We now return you to our regularly scheduled, non-commercial Web chat.)


Fairfax, VA: To the European traveller looking to get around:
I spent time in Paris and London three years ago and relied mainly on my own two feet. That way you get to see much more of the city. In London, we happened upon Princess Anne unveiling a plaque...something we would have never found if we were riding the tube!

Washington Post Travel editors: Good point, Fairfax.


Susquehanna Township, Pa: You told one chatter that San Simeon is 45 minutes south of San Francisco. If memory serves me right, San Simeon is just north of San Luis Obispo. San Luis Obispo is about halfway between San Francisco and L.A. San Luis Obispo would be about 8 hours south of San Francisco -6 from Monterey- if the wonderfully scenic and highly recommended Pacific Coast Highway -Route 1- is taken.

Washington Post Travel editors: Thanks, Susquehanna. We stand corrected.


Ft. Wayne, Indiana: Hello there! Love your column.

I am getting married in the middle of October. We won't have a lot of money -or time- to take my dream honeymoon in Tahiti. Can you please recommend some inexpensive places we can enjoy a 7 day honeymoon? We were thinking maybe Santa Fe and Albuquerque, or Redwood Park and the surrounding area, or PEI in Canada, since their currency is down. What do you think? Other suggestions?

Thank you.

Washington Post Travel editors: Says John Deiner, who spent time in New Mexico a couple of years ago:
Albuquerque is a great, cheap alternative to high-priced Santa Fe, which is only an hour north, and you can get to it easily on a very scenic road. Restaurants there are terrific, and Old Town Alb. is worth a stop. You'll love the tram ride up Sandia Peak -- should be beautiful in October.
The Grand Canyon is a long, easy ride from Albuquerque, if you're so inclined, and October is a much-less touristed season to see it.
PEI also would be an economical choice, given the Canadian currency situation. It's a very popular honeymoon spot, by the way, for Japanese fans of "Anne of Green Gables," so you might have some company.


Washington, DC: As for Nashville, I was there just last week and you don't want to miss Mere Bulle for jazz -downtown- and the Loveless Cafe for the best diner food and down-home atmosphere--and standout neon sign outside.

Washington Post Travel editors: Mo Nashville. Thanks, DC.


Arlington, VA: any suggestions on where to stay in Newport, RI that won't break the bank?

Washington Post Travel editors: KC Summers, who visited Newport recently, says: Absolutely. Newport is full of charming B&Bs with a variety of prices. I stayed in the Marshall Slocum Inn, which, at $125/night, might be a little pricier than you had in mind, but a three-course breakfast and lots of snacks are included. But there are lots of others. Try the official directory of Newport B&Bs at www.newportbnbs.com for ideas.


Timonium, MD: My husband and I want to take a Caribbean vacation in mid- November...Which are the best sites for resort golfing in that area?

Washington Post Travel editors: All of the major islands have decent golf courses. Your best bet for great golfing is Puerto Rico, which has at least 18 18-hole courses. The Westin Rio Mar, which is about 20 miles from San Juan, has two world-class courses. For real pros, the Provo Golf Club in Turks& Caicos is considered excellent.
And that's all we have time for this week, folks. Check out next week's paper edition, when we'll take a look at the sandy side of Michigan, Ireland's exotic Burren, and the old World's Fair site in Queens. And watch for our special, one-time only contest, celebrating 100 weeks of Travel Tips!




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