Talk About Travel: Transcript Hosted by Craig Stoltz Washington Post Travel Editor Monday, June 21, 1999

Craig Stoltz: Buenos tardes, travelissimos, and welcome again to our weekly support group for travel junkies who'd rather indulge their disease than seek a cure. I just returned from a week-and-a-half in Spain--Barcelona, Seville, and a scratch of Madrid--and can report the following with a high level of confidence: (1) The IVA train between Seville and Madrid--2.5 wonderful hours, smooth and at speeds over 150 mph--is a dream. Amtrak, take note! (2) When you ask questions in a language you speak only as a tourist, make sure your questions solicit only one or two-word replies--or else duck when the response comes at you like a hail of rubber bullets--budda-budda-budda! (3) Barcelona carries a wiggy cosmpolitan energy that reminds me of San Francisco--the energy of a place that thinks itself as more artistic, more enlightened, more authentic than the rest of the country--and for doing so has earned the rest of the country's contempt (4) It's a wonderful relief to visit a place where you know the whackos on the street are, at the very least, not packing heat (5) Spanish restaurants make and serve lousy bread. But if you like squid-ink seafood paella, amigo, you're in the right place. (6) Flamenco is far more interesting, especially in its vocals, than you think it is.

I could go on, but will reserve comment for anybody out there today who has questions about traveling to Spain. And, as usual, we'll take questions about anything you care to ask (unless we don't have a clue, in which case we will pretend you never asked or turn the question over to our audience). So, with no further stalling, on with the show. And always remember this sage piece of advice, repeated thousands of times every day by those Zen master flight attendants: *The nearest exit may be behind you.*

washington, dc:
Hi Craig,

My husband and I are actually going to Barcelona on July 4!

What were your "I'm so glad we went" places to go in Barcelona or the surrounding areas? Your "I wish we hadn't wasted the time" places?

My -generous and fairly wealthy- in-laws are picking up our hotel bill. Do you have any thoughts on how to make the most of the hotel concierge? -We're staying at Hotel Arts-

Thanks for the chat!

Craig Stoltz: So glad you asked. Yes, you're in-laws are generous and well-heeled--the Hotel Arts is a new, way upmarket property said to be of Four Seasons class. So you'll be in good hands. I wouldn't waste my time in the much-vaunted Barceloneta or Port Vell areas--both have been overrun by cruise ship visitors, and the businesses have devolved into those mass-service dining and dancing corrals that most land-based travelers will want to avoid. (I'm sure there are neat picks and niches in Barceloneta still, but unless you have a real insider's pick, I'd be careful).

You'll want to spend a lot of time walking on Rambla de Catalunya (the area that's just above the spot where La Rambla, the famous Barcelona promenade, ends) and the parellel street one block away, Passig de Gracia. PdG is one of the most beautiful and urbane city boulevards you'll see; both streets feature fine shops, some of the best Tapas bars in the city and sidewalk cafes prime for watching Barcelona's astonishingly beautiful yuppies pass by.

Philly, PA: A post-Father's Day question - Dad has relocated to Atlanta and we're wondering if Airtran -Valujet- is safe to fly? They have low price fares but...dad's priceless!

Craig Stoltz: Our airline reporter, John Briley, just wrote about AirTran a couple of weeks ago. Though his story was more about AirTran (ne ValuJet) reducing its flights from D.C., Briley spoke with a number of analysts and industry watchers, none of whom said that safety was currently a problem for the airline. Financial viability is--small, low-fare lines are having a hard time in this boom market, since the majors are doing so well and squeezing them out.

Based on what Briley tells me and what I know from following the industry, I wouldn't hesitate to fly AirTran--or fly a family member--to Atlanta. We get copies of many gripe letters sent to airlines, and I have to say that AirTran is not overrepresented in that correspondence. (They also have really cheap upgrades to first class ($25 or $50, something like that--a nice "gift" for dad anytime.)

Columbus, Oh: Craig, I am one of the lucky -unlucky?- ones that got fairly decent airfare to Las Vegas for the New Year's celebration. However, hotel prices are crazy! During one of your earlier chats you said that you have to be willing to "play poker" that rates will come down. Some have, but not quite enough. Any info on how the hotels are selling? Do you think the rates will still come down? Thanks, this chat is great.

Craig Stoltz: Nobody who goes to Las Vegas is lucky. Especially you.

Yes, it's ugly out there, accommodations-wise. Many of the casino hotels are either booked up or saying they are (figuring they need to hold rooms open for last-minuters who'll pay the moon, and for high-rollers who haven't committed yet). And those with vacancies are priced way up. We checked travelscape.com, an online booker that grew out of a Las Vegas hotel wholesale business (meaning it has good LV credentials and contacts). All we could find was a vacancy at New York New York, and at $495/night for the big nights right around the holiday (though only $199 and even $99 a few days before). We checked far lower on the food chain, at the two in-town Days Inns, and both claim to be booked out for the 2000 funfest. Hoteldiscount.com showed half a dozen vacancies; most started at $50-$99 for 12/27, and then shoot up to $500 to $900 per night for The Big Nights (30 Dec-2 Jan.) The Frontier, an older place that usually goes begging, is the best value listed, at $435 for the Gouge Nights and $40 for several nights previous.

One idea that may pan out: Try condo, house and apartment rentals. One of the best online sources of these not-quite-hotel lodgings is vacationspot.com; last we checked, the listings show some availability for the Millennium--some priced way up ($300-$500 per night), some not. We saw a nice week-long rental, hard by the Strip, for $3,000. Big money, sure: But hey, you didn't think you were going to Las Vegas for the 2000 party to get a deal now, did you?

As for "playing poker": I'd say that, for Las Vegas, that may be a losing gamble. It's the most booked up place of any for the 2000 wing-ding, even more so than New York City (which still shows some 70 percent of hotels with vacancies, though prime Times Square properties are long gone). My advice, worth every penny you're paying for it: Find your best deal and make the booking. I don't think you'll see LV prices going south.

Arlington, VA: I'm planning a trip to Cooperstown, NY for August to go to the Baseball Hall of Fame. Any suggestions on places to stay?

Craig Stoltz: I've stayed in Cooperstown a dozen times, never the same place twice for some reason. Aside from the pricey (and I thought rather stuffy) Otesaga resort, accommodations are pretty simple there; and, even better, reasonable. If you want to stay in the historic district (and walk everywhere), the Inn at Cooperstown was comfortable (its so lowkey that activities, according to the National Trust's Historic Bed & Breakfast Guide, are "reading, porch rocking and television"). A little further out, separated from Lake Otsego by a two-lane country highway, is the Lake -n-Pines motel. Again, basic, but here you get water access. By all means, when you visit Cooperstown do the required stuff -- the Hall of Fame et al. but one of the best times I had was renting a motorboat and puttering around the gorgeous lake. For web info, http://cooperstown.net.

Washington, D.C.: I've heard that the conflict in the Balkans resulted in massive cancellations this summer on the Adriatic in Italy and Croatia. How can I get in on the good deals that should create?

Craig Stoltz: Says Carolyn Brown (author of the last response too, I should point out), reporter of several recent danger-in-the-Balkans story for our section:

The conflict in the Balkans not only resulted in summer cancellations to the Adriatic (Venice, Dubrovnik) but the desire to avoid the now-ended war has spread throughout Europe, from the Eastern Mediterranean to, would you
believe, Scandinavia. I've talked to a couple of travel agents who are pretty frustrated about Americans' bad grasp of geography (aside from the Adriatic there weren't many mainstream destinations located too close to fighting) but, yeah, there are great deals now as tour operators and cruise lines are trying to salvage some summer business. Good deals should continue into the fall because a lot of people just decided not to wait the war out and planned alternative -- mostly U.S., Canada, and the Caribbean -- vacations. How to find one? The Internet, obviously, is one source; I've spotted some excellent cruise prices on www.travelco.com. Not to toot our own horns, but check out ads in Sunday newspaper travel sections. Cruise lines are offering all sorts of unheard of incentives for summer sailings in Europe (2-for-1s, free airfare); call a travel agent for more on that. Great deals may be more elusive -- they'll be the first to get snatched up so act fast.

Bethesda, MD! : Good afternoon! My BF and I were thinking of taking a trip to Italy in the fall - probably Oct-Nov timeframe, to avoid the heat and million tourists.

A few questions:

1. What are the must-sees for a first trip to Italy - should we do the cities or the counrtysides?

2. Is it cheaper to travel in Italy in the fall -ie, lower hotel rates etc.-?

3. We've been looking for packages on the internet -airfare-hotel- but can't find any for that far in advance. Any advice?

Craig Stoltz: K.C. Summers, instant Italy expert (just returned from a three-city tour), says:

Definitely concentrate on the cities. You can't go to Italy and not see Rome, Venice and Florence, and you need to spend three or four days in each to do them justice. In Florence, for example, it takes just about all day to do the Uffizi properly, and ditto for the Vatican Museums in Rome. But if you'll be in Italy a couple of weeks, you can also see a bit of the country, too, by taking a couple of day trips out of Florence or Rome. Two great day trips out of Rome: Go to the beautiful hill town of Tivoli (an hour's drive) to see Hadrian's Villa, the amazing ruins of the emperor's 2nd-century villa, and the Villa d'Este, a gorgeous 16th-century estate with beautiful gardens and fountains. Or from Florence, it's an easy half-day trip to the medieval town of Siena

And yes, you're smart to avoid summer -- fall is definitely cheaper (not to mention cooler and less crowded). As for packages, try Untours (on the Web at www.untours.com) -- they have some fall offerings. Two other tour operators to try: Uniworld and Amelia International, which offers custom-designed escorted itineraries as well as more independent trips.

Washington DC: going to the US Open at Pebble Beach next June, any suggestions on reasonable accomodations in the monterey area?

Craig Stoltz: No. Reasonable Monterey ain't. Try B&Bs (bbchannel.com), but do it quick. Fallback: Hotels along the 101 freeway. Not glam, but they'll give you shelter.

Gaithersburg, MD: I'm trying to convince my parents on allowing me to go to Spain with some friends this fall. I was wondering if you could think of any persuasive arguments on why Spain is a good place to visit. Perhaps, some information about the safety could be helpful. Thanks!

Craig Stoltz: (1) It's cheap--the dollar's strong against the paseta. You would need to try very hard to spend more than $20 for an interesting meal--for two. (You can spend much more, but you can do well for $10 each.) (2) It's safe. (3) It's a direct flight from Dulles, so you don't have to worry about getting sidetracked in the airport in Kabul. (4) Because you're an American kid and used to getting what you want.

Arlington, Va.: On my last flight, someone told me that if you are offered a choice of meals, you should take the fish because the rules are very strict about how to handle it so it's always fresh. Does this sound right to you?

Craig Stoltz: This is new to us. Anybody out there know about fish prep safety? Or airline food?

Arlington, VA: Planning a trip to Scandanavia. How would you rate the various major cities in terms of nightlife-young culture & overall chic? Someone told me Copenhagen is a blast. Any other gems aside from Helsinki-Stockholm?

Craig Stoltz: Says Brown, veteran of two trips to Scandinavia: Stockholm rocks. Great food. Neat art. Fun. Beautiful. She's partial to Reykjavik, but that may be an acquired taste. And at $10 a beer, you won't be drinking very late into the night. . . .

Other Scandinavia vets have advice for Arlington?

Washington : Craig,
For personal reasons, I am DESPERATE to get a flight to Charlotte, NC tomorrow night, returning Wednesday morning. I am having no luck finding a fare below $697 either by calling or on the internet. Do you have any suggestions?

Craig Stoltz: This may be the rare exceptional case where it's worth it to try priceline.com, that otherwise deeply bothersome bid-on-a-ticket service. You may find a deal. Some consolidators specialize is last-minute domestic fares. Check ads in our section for last-minute specialists. Try Bargain Airfares (703-522-3777) or Air Deals (888-999-8757). No guarantees, you understand.

washington, dc : I am going to the Bahamas -Nassau- in two weeks. I have read a lot about the Restaurant at Compass Point. Know anything about it, like is the food any good?

Craig Stoltz: Nobody here can testify. Anybody out there have a meal, or heard a story, about this Nassau restaurant?

arlington, VA: Are the summer sales gone for
this summer to Europe? 100,000
seats across the Atlantic
every day sounds like a lot
of room for a bargain.

Craig Stoltz: You can prowl for "sales" at this time of year, but they are nothing like off-season rates. Aer Lingus just announced a last-minute sale to Ireland, but it's still $600 round trip. I'd say your best bet is a consolidator, airlines' repository of unbought inventory; for some flights you can beat $500, but don't expect $300 tickets until mid-September.

Washington, DC: Suppose you were going to take two weeks to travel by car from DC to San Francisco at the end of July. Would you take I-70 through the middle of the country or the more southerly I-40? Or some other way? Crowds frustrate me, but after nearly 30 summers in either Atlanta or DC, heat does not. Tacky roadside attractions are a definite plus.

Craig Stoltz: I-40 takes you through the Smokies, Nashville, the Texas Panhandle--things really get interesting at Tucumcari, New Mexico. And of course, you'll get to Flagstaff and the Grand Canyon--one of the x-c highlights nobody on this pilgramage should miss. (By the way, the Post's own Bob Levey drove this route not long ago; his report will appear in July).

Anybody out there have x-c driving advice, especially routes in the way of wackiness on the roadside?

Bethesda, Md.: I want to take a road trip this summer to see some states I've never visited. Can you recommend an itinerary that includes stops in Tennessee, Alabama and Mississippi? I'm especially interested in U.S. history.

Craig Stoltz: Gary Lee reports that those states offer good sites re: the Civil War, the Trail of Tears, and Civil Rights history. For example, Birmingham has an excellent Civil Rights museum in the center of town; in front is a park memorialized as one of the battlegrounds of the movement. Throughout Tennessee, particularly around Chattanooga and in Nashville, you'll find interesting sites where Native Americans lived before the coming of Europeans. Jackson, Miss., has some intersting Civil War monuments. Andrew Jackson lived in Nashville, and there's an AJ mansion in Nashville.

Washington, D.C.: For the person hunting for bargain air fares to Europe: Lufthansa has auctions on their Web site for unsold tickets. I have no idea what they end up going for, but it might be worth a look.

Craig Stoltz: Good tip, D.C. That's a new feature; we'd love to hear reports of success/failure.

Washington DC: I have a place to stay in Barbados, have never been before. going in August, what should I expect, what should I not miss, etc?

Craig Stoltz: Says staff Caribbeanist Gary Lee (he's everywhere you want to be!): The beaches just east of Bridgetown, Accra and Silver Sands, are particularly pleasant. But there's much else: An excellent wildlife reserve, also near Bridgetown. A whole range of plantations which are easiest to see on a National Trust walking/driving tour. The shopping and dining scenes in Bridgetown are posh; jackets and ties required for dinner. Bring lots of credit on those cards.

Arlington, VA: For the person going to Barcelona. There's a great tapas place right near the Plaza de Catalunya called Txapela -Basque spelling-. Great food and really good service! Order some txacolí -a light, effervescent white wine- to go with your tapas and you can't go wrong.

Craig Stoltz: Si Si Arlington! I also ate at Txapela, and can verify it's incredible--the Basque spin on Tapas is unusual, popular and delicious. They also have great menus with pictures of the things you're ordering--very important because the menu is not in Spanish or even the local Catalan--it's in Basque.

Bethesda MD: Craig:

I have a comment and then a question. First, to the person who is going to Cooperstown, if you have kids in tow, or are interested in history yourself, there is an interesting restored "farm museum" just on the main road out of town. -As I recall the trolley that goes to all major sites goes there as well.- My then 9 & 5 year old sons loved the animals, the victorian-era children's games to try etc. I also would recommend taking one of the boat tours of Lake Otsego, that was also a highlight of the trip for us.

Now the question: how old are your kids and how did you handle the long flight-jet lag issue?

Thanks!

Craig Stoltz: Good notes, Bethesda.

As for the jet-lag question taking the kids to Spain: We used the little-known trick where you seat the kids on a plane going to grandma and grandpa's, while we go to Spain. Yes, it was just my wife and me (contrary to what the note said up top of this discussion), so I can't, happily, comment on kid-lag.

Harrisburg,PA: Re: the traveler going to Tennessee--the civil rights museum in Memphis in the Lorraine Hotel where Dr. King was shot is fantastic. It was very powerful for us, and our children.

Craig Stoltz: Thanks, Harrisburg!

potomac, md: my son wants me to join him in eastern europe in late july...to visit prague, budapest, etc. is it possible to book at this late date. i would be coming from here and he would be coming from israel

Craig Stoltz: Says Brown: Probably more possible now than at other times, because so many people cancelled summer plans to that part of the world during the bombing. There should be plenty of capacity on the flights; try a consolidator, which probably has more inventory than they know what to do with. Keep an eye out for airline sales too.

Arlington VA: I'm going to be in London for 10 days with my father and sister at the end of August. Any ideas for good day trips, keeping London our base? My dad is late 40s, I'm mid 20s, and my sister's 13, but she likes museums and educational stuff, to a certain extent.

Craig Stoltz: We'll soon be running a wonderful story about a classic English country walk that takes you through all sorts of layers of history--just an hour outside London by train. It starts in an area called Darent; if you go before we publish the story (planned for July, but you never know) check the guidebooks.

Anybody out there have other London day-trip ideas for this family?

Washington, DC: Hi Craig! I love this chat & the travel section in general.
I'm finally getting a chance to satiate my travel hunger this fall with a trip to Europe. I'm spending 3 weeks - low budget travel - and I'd like to see Italy, Spain-Portugal, and London. Is that too much to see in 3 weeks? I don't want this to be a kamikaze trip - I prefer to have an enjoyable time and get the feel for each place, rather than just being able to name the cities I've been to.

Also, do you have any must-sees in these countries?

Thanks!

Craig Stoltz: If you promise yourself that you will do only one city in each country--and use that city as a base for day-trips--that'll be a very doable itinerary. *Please* avoid the trick of thinking you can do a city every two days--it's murder; each unpacking and hotel sign-in steals another splinter of your soul. Three cities in three weeks, with some nice side-trips along the way, will be great.

Washington, DC: I'm interested in renting a house in Italy for a week or so this fall. Do you know of any reputable agencies who handle these kinds of arrangements or where else I might look? Many thanks!

Craig Stoltz: We guarantee nothing, but try www.europevacationvillas.com (800-674-8883). We have just found it on the Web but have no experience to report.

Anyone else have suggestions for houses in Italy?

Rockville, Md.: Is there anything in Europe comparable to the Appalachian Trail? Is it possible to walk from say, Paris to Rome, camping and staying at hostels along the way?

Craig Stoltz: A contributor to our pages has written about a trail that rides the ridge of the Pyrenees and takes you through France and Spain. I know there are many walking/hiking routes in Italy, Switzerland and Germany, but at least some are the packaged, yuppie, inn-to-inn tours (nothing wrong with that, but that's not much like the AT).

Others have experience with such European hiking?

DC: Clarksdale, Mississippi is the home of Blues...or so it claims anyway. The current photographic exhibit on the old railroad tracks is not to be missed. Oh yeah, and the caramel cake is to die for. I was in Vicksburg-Jackson about a month ago and it was hotter than hot. Be sure to take some sunscreen and dine on the river.

Craig Stoltz: Thanks, D.C. That's *dine* on the river, not *die,* right?

Arlington, VA: Craig,

Welcome back. I am going on a last minute trip to Barcelona for three days of July 4 and wanted to pick your brain for a three day itinerary of the city. I am fairly young -24 yrs. old- so I'm not worried about missing a museum or two. Any input would be greatly appreciated.

Craig Stoltz: We didn't do much nightlife stuff, but I can tell you if you spend any time on La Rambla (and you should, at least some), you'll see posters promoting nightly dances and bands that begin at midnight or 1 a.m. If you like architecture--heck, even if you don't--you should go to two buildings by the inevitable Gaudi: the Sagrada Familia (it's a cathedral on glue; make sure you ride the elevator and then climb the stairs to the top of its Dr. Suess spires); and Casa Mila (the rooftop is a hallucination).

Take the wacky cable car from Barcelona to the top of Montjuic, where there's an old fort which the good Generalissimo used to keep the restive Barcelonese in check, and a restored Mies Van der Rohe pavilion.

Washington, D.C.: For the Italian house hunter: I saved the following from Frommer's newsletter a few months ago:
A fascinating Web site, www.travel-italy.com, has a comprehensive listing of nearly 2,000 villas and apartments in various parts of Italy, some of which can be rented for as little as $335 per week, sleeping up to four persons.

Craig Stoltz: Thanks, D.C. We'd love to hear how it went.

There's probably a billion things to do there. Check some guide books and look on the Net. I'd definitely do a castle or 2. I went to Windsor last year when I was in London, it's where the royal wedding was held over the weekend. You can take a bus tour there or simply take the train from downtown. On my bus tour we went first to Hampton Court Palace and then took a boat up the river from Runnymede to Windsor and then bused back to London. It was a bit expensive, but I thought it was worth it. Leeds Castle in Kent is also beautiful, and a trip to Greenwich is easy and interesting.

Craig Stoltz: Good stuff, Arlington. Greenwich has wonderful markets on the weekend.

Craig Stoltz: Thanks, Harrisburg. There but for the grace of god, etc.

Craig Stoltz: Great stuff, Rosslyn.

Craig Stoltz: Note that Stonehenge was the site this weekend of a mini-riot by Druids, who were granted access for the first time in a long time to celebrate summer Solstice. Not sure what access will be like in the near future.

I moved up to NJ from DC and I'm wondering if you know of any similar directories to help locate resort spas around NY. My fiance and I are in the thick of wedding planning and could really use a weekend away!

Craig Stoltz: The New Age Spa in the Catskills is reasonably well done for a budget operation. Mohunk Mountain House is not a spa but a Quaker resort that's great for relaxation and stress relief. And very romantic. There is of course the famous Canyon Ranch in the Berkshires of Massachusetts. You can always try SpaFinders (spafinders.com).

Craig Stoltz: Says Brown: "I just got back from a 13-day cruise and land tour from Athens to Istanbul. Got pickpocketed in Athens, and just missed hanging around Kolonaki (its Georgetown)when a shoe store got bombed. Not a successful visit. But the Greek Isles were stress free and the Aegean is the most gorgeous body of water I've ever seen. Istanbul was also a tad rambunctious (there was an attempted rocket attack on the US consulate the day before I arrived); prepare to be metal-detectored everywhere but I loved this city. The people were super nice, the city itself was a fascinating maze of history and culture. One highlight was hanging out for a day at the cafes and boutiques of Ortakoy; another was taking a ferry up the Bosphorous ($2.50 roundtrip); we stopped at the last town on the Asian side and climbed a mountain to see where the Bosphorous entered the Black Sea. Gorgeous! I'd go back in a minute. Didn't get to Cairo, sorry."

Craig Stoltz: Great stuff, Columbia! Thanks for listening. The Ol' Alternative Airport Trick comes in handy again.

Craig Stoltz: Southern Spain has a climate that's similar to that of North Africa; it'll be quite comfortable in the winter. Barcelona is on the Mediterranean and has a mildish climate year-round. We spent two days in Seville, which is a nice, smaller town teeming with Flamenco, bullfights and tapas bars. It's in the hot zone. Really any place in Anadalucia, the south-central province, would be wonderful in winter. Nice side-trips to Morocco too. Yes, I'd go back, particularly to spend more time in Madrid and check out more of the south.

And on that wistful note, we end today's chat. Thanks to everyone who pitched in. In Sunday's paper we focus on adventure travel, *but promise not to write about the sort of death-defying nonsense normal people would never do but which other publications always write about when they do adventure travel.*

And during your week, please remember: That nearest exit may be in front of you, too.

• 14 – Regional Travel With Escapes Editor Roger Piantadosi
• 7 – Summer Road Trips

May

• 24 – Consolidators and Online Booking
• 10 – Taking Metro to the Airport and More
• 3 – Local Cruise Ports

• 26 – New York and More
• 19 – The Ugly American Abroad
• 12 – Open Forum
• 5 – New Year's Eve 1999

• 29 – Europe '99 (with guest host Gary Lee)
• 22 – Summer Travel
• 15 – Open Forum With Associate Travel Editors
• 8 – Airline Web Sites
• 1 – Caribbean '99  

• 22   – Free for All  
• 15   – Cruise '99 (with guest Carolyn Spencer Brown)  
• 8   – Spa and Fitness Getaways  
• 1   – I'm Going to Disney World

• 25   – Baseball Spring Training  
• 18   – All About Airlines  
• 11   – 1999 Travel Trends