The Best Beach in the Hills By Amy Brecount White Special to The Washington Post Wednesday, May 3, 2000

The Washington Post

This summer, as we did last summer, you might find it incomparably refreshing, and rather vividly quaint, to cool off in a spring-fed mountain lake, far from the chlorinated concrete slabs of your neighborhood pool. On the far side of the imposing Signal Knob of Massanutten Mountain, Half Moon Beach will always be a few degrees cooler and the air much fresher than what we put up with on sweltering summer days around here.

Curious groups of small, silvery fish made some of the teenage girls squeal as they entered the water. (But then, what doesn't make teenage girls squeal?) But at 6 and 4, my boys weren't at all squeamish. Making their way down the beach of imported white sand, they took the plunge with their dad and headed for two floating docks.

The baby and I waded waist-deep into the smooth waters, and she danced her toes as I simply breathed, cooled and refreshed. Svenja, a German student who was staying with us for a few weeks, was content to sun herself turtlelike on the beach and soak in the lovely, unfamiliar surroundings.

Usually subject to the strictures of our pool, our boys were thrilled to leap and leap again from the floating docks within the roped-off, guarded area. Unlike at the pool, no signs indicated the depth of the water. Far below its usual mark due to a drought, it was still over our heads in most places. (Floats and water wings are a good idea, even if your kids are strong swimmers.) With normal rainfall, I hear there's a shallow wading area that's perfect for toddlers.

Ever on the go, my husband, Pete, the boys and Svenja headed for the paddleboats to explore the 16-acre lake and examine the blasted, multicolored rock faces up close. Although the cliffs are not naturally occurring land masses, such abruptness in nature is always fascinating. Across the lake from me, a strongly rowed canoe passed the paddleboat and disappeared behind a small island as I filtered the fine white sand through my fingertips and held it out for the baby to squeeze and pat.

Now this is summer, I thought.

While Strasburg and its environs present any curious visitor with several thematic alternatives to explore, limestone turned out to be a main motif of our stay. It was the relentless search for limestone--in 1917, Strasburg's many lime quarries produced 4,000 barrels a day--that led to this great hole, which later filled with water. Limestone and water also combined most awesomely millions of years ago to form the resplendent caverns that abound beneath the hills of this valley.

Over the hill from the old quarry as the crow flies, you can visit Crystal Caverns, a small set of crystalline caves that were a favorite haunt of former first-lady adviser Jeane Dixon. You can follow in her footsteps to renew your psychic powers, or just gawk at the shimmering crystals.

Because Svenja had seen only small caverns in Europe, we opted to visit the larger Shenandoah Caverns, just down the Old Valley Pike (U.S. 11) from Strasburg. While such guided spelunking expeditions tend to be hokey, even the most cynical tourist can't deny the beauty and occasional magic of the formations. It also helps to think what it must have been like to be the first explorer who stumbled into these glistening depths--before all this garish lighting was installed. If all that blasting for limestone couldn't demolish these beautiful underground expanses, then the weight of all those knickknacks and doodads in the gift shop upstairs can't do too much harm.

And don't forget to bring jackets. Unlike up at unabashedly old-fashioned Half Moon Beach, this part of a shimmering summer day is always . . . cool.

GETTING THERE: Half Moon Beach is an easy day-trip drive (about 75 miles) from Washington. From the Beltway, take I-66 west and follow the signs to Strasburg via U.S. 11. The entrance to the beach is across from the Burger King as you enter Strasburg. The beach is open Memorial Day to Labor Day. Admission is about $4 for adults, $3 for ages 3 to 12.

BEING THERE: Half Moon Beach boasts five acres of white sand, including 10 beach volleyball courts. Scuba Ventures (540-667-6299) offers scuba certification classes there in an underwater scuba park complete with sunken boats, obstacles and a cavern. You can also flex your muscles at the batting cage, hone your strokes at a mundane miniature golf course or walk and bike the two miles of woodsy trails. You and your buds can also act out even more muscular fantasies in the 40 wooded acres available for paintball warfare.

Strasburg also abounds in antiques dealers and smallish museums, such as the Museum of American Presidents (540-465-5999) and the Stonewall Jackson Museum at Hupp's Hill (540-465-5884), both of which feature appropriate memorabilia. Kids can try on costumes or play with period toys. Picture-raid the attics of all the residents of a small but historically rich town and you've got the contents of the Strasburg Museum (540-465-3175).

The town is within easy distance of both mountain trails in George Washington National Forest and valley rapids on the Shenandoah River. Downriver Canoe Co. (800-338-1963) in Bentonville offers rafting, kayaks, tube floats and camping along the river. If fishing lures you, check out the new Raymond R. "Andy" Guest Shenandoah River State Park on the south fork of the river below Front Royal. Against the majestic backdrop of Massanutten Mountain, the park boasts 5.6 miles of easily accessed shoreline and four miles of riverside hiking trails.

Within an hour of Strasburg, you can choose from four entrances to the underground world of stalactites and stalagmites. All of them boast a unique formation: Luray Caverns (540-743-6551); Crystal Caverns at Hupp's Hill (540-465-8660); Skyline Caverns (800-296-4545); and Endless Caverns (800-544-CAVE). If you visit Shenandoah Caverns (540-477-3115), be sure to order a milkshake from the shake maker at the vintage coffee counter.

WHERE TO STAY: Half Moon Beach (540-465-5757, www.halfmoonbeach.com, has five cabins atop a cliff that sleep four for $49 a night, including admission to the beach; they're available year-round. (Restrooms and showers are at the beach.) We stayed in a suite at the nearby Hotel Strasburg (800-348-8327), which offers reasonable family packages including breakfast and dinner. There's also a Budget Inn (800-296-5298) just outside town.

WHERE TO EAT: In town, don't miss KD's Kustard--like a soft serve but creamier, with the syrup of your choice artfully swirled atop the grooves. Half Moon Beach has a snack bar with hot dogs, chips and the usual fare. We had a surprisingly good dinner at the Hotel Strasburg (see above), which also has a wide-ranging kids menu.

DETAILS: Strasburg Chamber of Commerce, 540-465-3187, or Shenandoah County Tourism Office, 888-367-3954, www.co.shenandoah.va.us or www.shenandoahtravel.org.

Originally founded by members of the Russian Imperial Ballet who fled the revolution, the popular tourist destination has been completely renovated in the spirit of its original founders. Details: www.russiantearoom.com, 212-974-2111.

For her efforts, Bock- Losee receives a copy of "Escape Plans," The Washington Post's getaway guide.

Now, on to Contest #10:

What north-flowing river is one of the oldest around?

Deadline for Contest #10 entries is 10 a.m. Monday, May 8. Send entries by email (escapist@ washpost.com; put the phrase "Escapes Trivia" in the subject field), fax (202-334-1069) or U.S. mail (Escapes Trivia, Washington Post Travel Section, 1150 15th St. NW, Washington, D.C. 20071). Winners, chosen at random from among correct entries, will receive a copy of The Post's "Escape Plans" getaway guide, or other prizes to be announced. One entry per person per contest. Employees of The Washington Post are ineligible to win prizes. Entries become property of The Post, which reserves the right to edit, distribute or republish them in any form, including electronically.