Rock of Ages By Daniele Dolges Special to The Washington Post Wednesday, August 18, 1999

The author's mother communes with the lichen. (Photo by Curt Seiss)

In the past, toward this end, we'd shared dance and yoga classes, built Native American drums together, sang in choirs, took riding lessons, even attended a women's gathering. When it was again my turn to choose our joint activity, I yearned for something that would be meditative but require us to work, and focus, together.

Something like . . . rock climbing.

Mum's hesitant assent said about all she couldn't say. I knew of her fear of heights and her worries about having spent too much time lately behind a desk. But even her reluctance served to reveal a dedication that outweighed some pretty serious fears.

We agreed that we would share our first climbing experience at Seneca Rocks, W.Va., a popular spot equidistant from our too-distant homes. We'd had a little experience with climbing, but we both felt a serious need to review the basics, and arranged a weekend climbing class.

The first day out, as we hiked up the trail to the crag, Mum chatted away, obviously nervous. The few hundred vertical feet of steep rock steps, Seneca's ascent, offered our first major physical challenge – even more of a challenge than for most, as neither of us is very tall – but we scrambled on, and it seemed to grow easier.

We worked hard, learned fast, and by midday Sunday had actually reached the southern summit by climbing every inch of the distance on our own power. As we climbed down, I found that despite the breathtaking views and feelings of accomplishment, I felt somehow discontented, unlike Mum.

Before we started, reaching the summit had seemed impossible to her; I understood her elation. Still, for me, we had missed some essence of the practice – the climbing itself. Lost in the distractions – of too many people, maybe, or too much emphasis on competition, gradings and success – was that sense of crumbling boundaries I'd imagined, of expanding perspectives, of the whole meditative quality . . .

Well, even if for different reasons, we both wanted to do it again.

For our next climbing venture, we chose Nelson Rocks Preserve, a pair of lesser-known crags a few miles south of Seneca. Privately owned and opened to the public only last year, Nelson Rocks is said by some climbers to be one of the Eastern Seaboard's most important new recreational sources. Though quite similar to Seneca in many respects, its differences are crucial. Because Nelson is traversed not nearly as frequently, loose rock is much more prevalent. Also, to preserve the area's wild character, visitors are asked to follow a detailed list of rules not posted at Seneca: "No loud or boisterous behavior, no music (headphones only). No dogs or other pets. Climbers should carry 'earth tone' webbing and slings. Do not leave brightly colored webbing or other gear on the crags. Use designated bathrooms only." There is also a small fee for preserve upkeep and development, a warning of the dangers, and a release to be signed.

A road snakes along the floor of the gap. On both sides of a forest of old-growth hemlocks tower the fins of Tuscarora quartzite, silica-cemented sandstone that was literally turned on end, a full 90 degrees, by geological forces some 230 million years ago. Despite millions of years of erosion, the dense layer of quartzite remains, its limestone neighbor all but gone. To the south of the road, having sliced a "V" in the crags, Nelson Run burbles quietly, as if resting. Near here, a lone rock holds a dedication plaque from the owners: "Nelson Rocks Preserve is dedicated to the memory of our son and brother Robert Samuel Pearson Hammett . . . and his grandfather, Robert Arthur Hammett . . . by Stuart, LaVonne, and Grace Hammett." The plaque gives the area around the crag base an air of quiet reverence.

Across the road, a stone step path has been painstakingly worked into the scree, winding its way up the mountain – a two-mile trail to the summit. With a wooden staircase at its foot and a few signs marking its switchbacks, it appears the only other sign of human intervention. We pick our way carefully up the stones, already transformed by the almost overwhelming hush.

The first day proves to be a crash course in dealing with "obstructions," including crunchy lichen-covered rock surfaces and the abundant plant life that had established itself into every possible hand- and foothold. By the second day, acquainted with the new conditions, we are free to focus on climbing strategies and technique – and to appreciate the surroundings. By midday Sunday, a bit reminiscent of our weekend climb at Seneca, we reach a summit. But it is a summit of a different sort.

A couple of hundred feet up on the west side of the east fin, we sit in silence with our guide, Dave Martin of Seneca Rocks Mountain Guides. (Martin and Tom Cecil have helped map many of the climbing routes at Nelson Rocks.) We've just completed a pitch and are resting, experiencing the absence of sound: traffic, airplanes, human voices. Though silent, we sit attentively, at rest yet actively engaged with our surroundings. This is what I had imagined.

Taking up the rear, I wait here alone a while as Dave, then Mum, climb on. I watch Mum as she climbs, carefully securing my belay rope into the fixed gear. We've become completely immersed – a part of this place. Nothing breaks the stillness, our thoughts as quiet as the distant sounds of birds and rustling leaves. The sheer majesty of the rock gives it a living quality. At once I see why humankind has long found mountains to be sacred places.

Getting There: Nelson Rocks is about three hours from the Beltway. Take Interstate 66 west to I-81 south to Strasburg, and follow U.S. 55 west past all the "Corridor H: Build It!" signs (promoting plans to extend a major artery west from the end of I-66). At Seneca Rocks, take Route 33 south about 10 miles to a right on Route 28 south and start watching for the Nelson crags in the ridge on your left. Less than a mile down, Nelson Gap Road is an upaved left turn marked with a small green sign on the right.

Where to Stay: The eight Nelson Rocks Mountain Cabins (301/867-5031, doubles $25-$35) are located at the Preserve, a short walk from the crags and recommended for those who want to rough it but without the hassle of tent-camping. Four-wheel drive is a good idea for staying here. Each sleeps four. No electricity or phone, but gas lighting (some with gas heat), vault toilets and a water source. For those who would opt for a hot shower, Yokum's (304/567-2351, doubles $45-$115) offers rooms and cabins with kitchens or kitchenettes. Harman's North Fork Cabins (800/436-6254, doubles start at $99.50) adds whirlpool tubs and satellite TV to the amenities. Also check out Hedrick's 4-U Motel (on Route 55, 304-567-2111, doubles $40-$55), or Mountainside Retreats in Franklin, W.Va. (703/719-9360, cabins about 20 miles from Seneca Rocks).

Camping facilities include Yokum's Vacationland Campground (304/567-2351, $5-$13.50), Princess Snowbird Campground (304/567-2351, $ 5-$13.50, teepees start at $20), and Seneca Shadows (800/280-2267, $5-$30, run by the U.S. Forest Service). Camping is also permitted in the Monongahela National Forest outside the Seneca portion of the Spruce Knob/Seneca Rocks National Recreation Area; call the Seneca Rocks Discovery Center (see Details).

Where to Eat: If camping or staying in a cabin with a kitchenette, bring groceries and supplies. More of these can be obtained at Yokum's store at Seneca Rocks or at Harper's Old Country Store next door. For a sit-down meal, try the Front Porch (304/567-2555), above Harper's Old Country Store (open weekends; offers homemade pizza, sandwiches and desserts) or the 4-U Restaurant (304/567-2111; more diner style featuring homemade mashed potatoes, pies and a few low cal, low cholesterol meals). More choices are a 20- to 40-minute drive away in Petersburg or Elkins.

Details: For climbing at Nelson Rocks Preserve, contact Stuart Hammett at 301/627-5301 or www.nelsonrocks.org, or contact Tom Cecil at Seneca Rocks Mountain Guides at 800/451-5108, www.senecarocks.com. For climbing at Seneca Rocks National Recreation Area, choosing a guide,taking a course or purchasing equipment, contact Cecil (above) or Seneca Rocks Climbing School at 800/548-0108. For visiting the Spruce Knob/Seneca Rocks area, check with the newly opened Seneca Rocks Discovery Center at 304/567-2827.

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