Northleft Passage: California's Stinson Beach By Alan S. Kay Sunday, October 19, 1997; Page E02

Why: Because it's less than 20 miles from San Francisco yet protected by a section of two-lane California Route 1 as tortuous, challenging and breathtaking as any you'll find. Because it's a piece of West Marin, which is a place and a people apart, even for the Bay Area. Because the 47 square miles of San Francisco can get to be too much, and this town of cool grays and sparkling blues is a sure antidote. Because it's a portal on foot to great hiking, and by car to the rest of West Marin, including the awe-inspiring Point Reyes National Seashore, the balance of the North Coast, and the wineries of Sonoma County.

Lodging and Dining: Space in town is limited, so advance arrangements are advised. If you're staying for one week or more or want to set up housekeeping, consider renting a beach cottage; there are lots, both in the area close to town known as the "Calles" and in the gated community of Seadrift. Start by calling Oceanic Realty, 1-800-773-0717, http://www.oceanicrealty.com. For a shorter or easier stay, our preference is the Casa del Mar, a lovely Mediterranean-style B&B with an awesome garden and rooms with views of the Pacific or Mount Tam ($125 to $220 a night; 1-800-552-2124, http://www.StinsonBeach.com). Dining is limited; our current favorite is the Parkside Cafe (415-868-1272).

The Fine Print: The North Coast is not Southern California -- swimming is for the hearty only, and sweaters are often appropriate beach attire. Stinson can be quite foggy, particularly between June and August; many consider this part of its appeal. The drive over Mount Tam can be challenging, especially at night, so think carefully about making evening plans in central Marin or San Francisco. There's no gas station in Stinson Beach, so always gas up on the way there. There's also only one food and wine market in town, plus a nice organic food store nearby; if there's something out of the ordinary you'll want, bring it along. Don't worry about the oysters, though; they're farmed just up the coast, where you can buy them by the box, and are on every menu. Don't expect much TV; reception is poor. But the bird-watching is great, particularly at Audubon Canyon Ranch (415-868-9244).

Oh, yes: About that Shakespeare business: Shakespeare at the Beach (415-868-9500) is performed in an open-air theater within earshot of the breakers, Friday to Sunday evenings from August to October.

How: By car (your only choice), cross the Golden Gate Bridge, then follow 101 north to the Mill Valley/Stinson Beach exit to California Route 1. Turn left at Tam Junction, following the Route 1 signs along a winding two-lane road. Bear left (downhill) at the intersection with Panoramic Highway. At the bottom of the mountain you'll pass turnoffs to Muir Beach and then Muir Woods. Then the road rises again and curves a lot more, finally revealing Stinson Beach spread out below you.

The Bottom Line: Stinson Beach is more accessible today than it was in the days before the Golden Gate Bridge was built, but it's still amazingly far away for the short journey required to get there. It's a town of artists and pelicans, beach volleyball and long walks along the beach. But mostly it's mountain and ocean. That's plenty.