Hip Pockets: In East Atlanta, Cool Gets a Grip By Mike Musgrove The Washington Post Sunday, May 3, 1998; Page E04

But things are quietly picking up in this scruffy section of town, based at the intersection of Glenwood and Flat Shoals avenues, making it that most elusive and fleeting of urban locales: the ripe but undiscovered corner, the island of True Cool that has not yet been invaded, plundered or, in many cases, even noticed. It is not long for this world, of course, so visit soon.

Nestled among a few barber shops and an old grocery store, you'll find a handful of new bars and restaurants attracting the just-under-30 crowd. Unlike much of Atlanta, the area actually feels Southern, with red clay dust on the sidewalk and the spare tires decorating front yards. Buckhead this ain't.

The first wave of cuisine here is a suitably homey/funky mix, from the Asian Meatloaf at Burrito Art (1259 Glenwood, 404-627-4433) to the Heaping Bowl & Brew's (469-A Flat Shoals, 404-523-8030) Fried Green Tomato Quesadillas. Vintage clothing shops and antiques stores -- the obligatories of any happening neighborhood -- are popping up at a regular clip. The inevitable coffee house was among the first settlers; try the sweet house blend at the Sacred Grounds cafe (510 Flat Shoals, 404-584-5541). The art and furnishings are supplied by Verdio House (492-B Flat Shoals, 404-880-0708).

Poets, Artists & Madmen, a free local paper aimed at Atlanta's creative types, just moved into the neighborhood in February. Just up the street, Flat Shoals Alley (492-A Flat Shoals, 404-522-5562), a collective of six artists, has been open a month.

At the new Fountainhead Lounge (485-A Flat Shoals, 404-522-7841) -- the name was inspired by the Ayn Rand novel -- co-owner Kevin Arnberg laughs when asked whether the bar will welcome people who don't subscribe to Rand's stark philosophy -- that human progress is made by only a small group of self-directed, egotistical Ubermenschen in each generation. "We will," he jokes, "but maybe we'll make them sit in the back."

From Peachtree Street (all directions in Atlanta start here, after all), take Ponce de Leon Avenue east to Moreland Avenue. Turn right on Moreland and follow it to Glenwood Avenue (across I-20); turn left on Glenwood. For more information, contact the Atlanta Convention & Visitors Bureau, 1-800-285-2682, http://www.acvb.com.