In Arkansas, a Passion for Drama By Alan Sverdlik Sunday, September 6, 1998; Page E02

It's no apparition.

The 70-foot white statue, dubbed the Christ of the Ozarks, overlooks Eureka Springs and a number of neighboring ridges in Arkansas's northwest corner, serving as a sentry for the more than 1.5 million visitors who pass through here every year. Built in 1966, the monument altered Eureka's psyche forever: No more just a former spa and hippie enclave, it shortly became known as the venue of America's premier passion play.

"The Great Passion Play," the story of Jesus's last week on Earth, entered its 31st season this spring, making it the country's longest-running production of its type. Performed in an 4,100-seat amphitheater next to the statue, the play is billed as Arkansas's top tourist attraction. The season runs from the last week in April, when the Ozark chill subsides, through the last Saturday of October, when the wind begins to rustle through the hollows.

The 250-member cast, made up of amateur actors and actresses from Eureka and surrounding towns, performs five nights a week on the 550-foot-long set. The show features sumptuous costumes, dramatic sound effects and massive sets depicting old Jerusalem, as well as a supporting cast of live animals that amble on and off the stage throughout the performances.

Even if the play is not the focal point of your trip, it's hard to tune out. The sound effects, particularly the shrieks and thuds from the Crucifixion scene, echo through the hollows. And if you see what looks like a missile in the Arkansas sky, don't worry: It's a beam that tracks Christ's ascent to Heaven, a trick pulled off with a lift and a spotlight.

The play is not Eureka's sole passion. The town's "healing springs," first frequented by Native Americans, were wildly popular with Victorian-era health seekers, and the town is still a spa magnet. The restored Palace Bath House offers visitors the full treatment--mineral baths in clawfoot tubs, massages, clay masks and eucalyptus steam therapy.

The entire town has been placed on the National Register of Historic Places. Victorian homes, more than 65 of which have been turned into B&Bs, cling precariously to hillsides, and restaurants serve "Nouveau 'Zarks" fare, a blend of country cooking and French haute cuisine. Craft and souvenir shops, boutiques and cafes line the winding streets. A couple of miles away there are green meadows and oak forests, jutting boulders and clear streams.

Somehow, Eureka's dual identities--upscale resort and religious mecca--cohere into one, its residents say. "There is a level of tolerance and acceptance here," says Rebecca Barden, a waitress and mother of three. "We have extremely right-wing people and extremely left-wing people, a real mishmash."

David Bailey certainly thought Eureka was odd when he heard "agonizing screams and hammering" in the distance as he sat on his porch one night. "I had just moved to Eureka," says Bailey, who runs a preschool program. "First came these strange noises wafting through the valley. Then a beam of light would shoot up in the air. I thought maybe someone was in trouble, but I couldn't pinpoint where it was coming from."

"The Great Passion Play" runs through Oct. 31 (closed Mondays and Thursdays); call 1-800-882-7529 for tickets ($14.25 and $15.25 adults, $7.50 and $7 children). Fayetteville, Ark., is a one-hour drive from Eureka; TWA and American are among the airlines offering connecting service from Washington, with round-trip fares starting at about $330. Numerous private and municipal campgrounds are available, including those at Withrow Springs State Park, a 700-acre recreation area about 20 miles south of Eureka Springs ($7.50-$13.50 a night); call 501-559- 2593 for reservations. For general information on Eureka Springs, including lodging, restaurants and other attractions, contact the Tourist Center, 501-253-0505, http://www.eureka -usa.com.