Ben's Chili Bowl is known for its history, neighborhood feel, Motown jukebox -- and its signature chili dogs. (Mark Finkenstaedt for wp.com)

Photo Gallery of Washington Restaurants

You're a tourist. You dress like one, talk like one and carry all the relevant props. You're the object of abuse and hoodwinking around the world. You're easily lured into restaurants that hire sandwich board-luring agents walking the streets. Everyone is ordering the same thing. You're in Anywhere, USA.

So we offer you the real deal -- the way to a Washingtonian's stomach. These are the places that local folks call home, year after year: They witness history; they watch neighborhoods change; they have become institutions. Here are a few to whet your barometer.

P.S. Leave the map at the hotel.

Chili, half-smokes and cheese fries are the headliners at Ben's Chili Bowl, which has been open on U Street since 1958. But that's just the food. A survivor of the 1968 MLK riots, Ben's is like a historical and cultural monument. There's Motown on the jukebox and kitschy decor (red swirling stools, stainless steel) and there's that chili. Open until 4 a.m. on the weekends, it's worth a stop, even if you don't like chili. You never know whom you'll run into, either. It's a reputed fave of Bill Cosby.

Not too far down the road is another oldtimer, the Florida Avenue Grill, which has been serving soul food since 1944. With its long row of booths and parallel counter, the place feels like a diner, but with a Southern twist. Think grits, collards, macaroni and cheese and biscuits, plus such breakfast standards as pancakes, omelets and sundry pork products. This is one of the few places in Washington where you'll find stripes of all colors, wallets of all sizes and political affiliations in all camps.

Open since 1976, Kramerbooks & Afterwords Cafe prides itself on the first bookstore/cafe in the country. Actually, there's more there than meets the press release; Kramer's, as it's affectionately known, is more of a community hall. The bookstore, one of the last surviving independents in town, had its share of limelight in 1998, when Independent Counsel Kenneth Starr subpoenaed receipts of purchases made by Monica Lewinsky. In its true spirit, the store refused to cough them up, and printed up T-shirts that said, "Subpoenaed for Bookselling."

Just in the next room is the bar area, where you can surf the Web for free while you suck down a draft, and meet both locals and tourists from all over the world. The menu, both barside and at table, is the creation of Pete Barich, a wacky fun-loving sort who refuses to serve hamburgers but will gladly whip you up a hangar steak sandwich or a serious plate of black bean nachos.

Washington benefits from its proximity to the Chesapeake Bay, so when the season is right, we get the bounty. Crabs are king, both hard and soft, and the crab cake is so readily available and so fresh during the season that it should be considered Washington's signature dish (I know, Baltimore has already claimed it.). If you're up for some nitty-gritty and a little home-grown flavor, head over to the Maine Avenue Wharf. Walk along the piers, breathe in some salty air and make friends with the folks who are serving up fish sandwiches, hush puppies and crab cakes. A real treat.

There are few authentic, born-and-bred Washingtonians. Because of the changing tide of politics, world affairs and banking and diplomacy, locals call themselves locals after one year. Many of these folks work near the seats of power, from the White House to the Capitol. Their clubhouses include:

• Georgia Brown's, for upscale takes on southern-style chow, including fried chicken salad, hush puppies, Cobb salad and catfish. Known for its killer brunch (see Brunch story for details) as well, Georgia Brown's is swell for taking in the local buzz and maybe even getting a glimpse at a few celebrities, former Mayor Marion Barry among them.
• Suits flock to Old Ebbitt Grill, a stone's throw from the White House, for its oyster bar, supersonic burgers and a old-boy wooden tavern kind of feel.
• Down the street is the Occidental Grill, a veritable dinosaur that has been around since 1906. Witness to several presidential administrations, the Occidental has lived almost a century of Washingtonia. Go for the architecture, the history and a plate of meat and potatoes. This remains a political celebrity haunt.
• And so does the Monocle, right smack in the middle of Capitol Hill, so if hobnobbing is your thing, go here first and get comfy for a while. The suits will start to trickle in.
• Although a chain with outposts around the country, The Palm in Washington feels very local. It's a steak and martini kind of place, but oh do they do it right. You smell the clubbiness upon entering. (You might smell a cigar as well.) Your chances of spotting a Cabinet member or Senator are quite high. P.S. The creamed spinach is killer.