Washington may not have a nightlife scene on par with New York or Miami, but this city still has a lot to offer. With numerous universities and government agencies, a bustling high-tech corridor and tons of intern positions open every year, Washington always has scores of young people looking for something to do. We have huge dance clubs, great corner bars and cozy Irish pubs. Unlike many other subway systems -- including London and Paris -- the Metro runs until 2 a.m. on the weekends, a huge boon for the nightlife scene. More importantly, because of Washington's diversity, there's something for everyone, whether that's salsa dancing, Ethiopian nightclubs, places to watch European soccer, country karaoke or Persian techno. It might take some legwork, but it's there. We promise.
Adams Morgan
Adams Morgan is the key neighborhood for Washington nightlife. Any kind of going-out option you need sits chock-a-block around the intersection of 18th Street and Columbia Road, extending down 18th as far as Florida Avenue. There are Caribbean and African clubs; the three-story Reef, which features a large rooftop deck, one of the area's coolest beer selections and dozens of varieties of aquatic life; the swank Felix martini bar and Spy Lounge; the giant dance club Heaven and Hell, with its legendary '80s night on Thursday; "neighborhood bars" like Toledo Lounge and Millie and Al's; the best salsa dancing (and Mojitos) in D.C. at Habana Village; chill lounges Soussi, Meze and Bossa, several rooftop bars; and Madam's Organ, which Playboy named one of the best bars in America. A neighborhood landmark, Madam's has nightly specialties that move between blues, bluegrass and jazz, plus the occasional wandering magician.
The crowd varies by club, but by and large, most are night owls ages 21 to 35; and if you go by the license plates that fill every parking space within eight blocks, many are suburbanites looking for thrills they can't find at home.
Word to the wise: Don't drive if you can help it. Parking spaces go quickly. Beware the homeless men who will "help" you find a parking space that you've already seen. Take Metro: Go to the Woodley Park/Adams Morgan station, then board a shuttle, which costs $.25 each way, or make a 15-minute walk.
Capitol Hill/Union Station
At Capitol Lounge, a comfy pub and restaurant with a cigar lounge in the basement, there's a chalkboard behind the bar that lists the brands of beer on tap. At the bottom, in bold and underlined letters, is this message: "No Politics!" That's the problem on the Hill, where young congressional staffers, lobbyists and government types gather after business is concluded. Most bars try not to wear their politics on their sleeves, although it's sometimes obvious – Tortilla Coast is home to lots of Republicans, for example. But it's not always so easy. Staffers of all stripes love both the Hawk and Dove or the new Lounge 201, which is a great place to relax with a martini. Unless you see someone toasting the "Nixon's the One!" poster at Capitol Lounge, you can't tell whom they work for.
Instead, the nightspots on the Hill are more easily divided by their proximity to a certain side of the Capitol. Over on the Senate side (closest to Union Station), the hot bars are the enormous Capitol City Brewing Company in the old Post Office building, My Brother's Place, with its weekend $12 all-you-can-drink specials and cheap happy hours, and two neighboring Irish pubs: the Dubliner (traditional) and the Irish Times (young and boisterous).
Along Pennsylvania Avenue and the House side, there are two main strips: Pennsylvania Avenue and Seventh Street. Highlights include the venerable Hawk and Dove; the Penn Ave. Pour House (a Pittsburgh-themed bar); Politiki, a tiki bar in the basement of the Pour House; and Mr. Henry's, a cozy bar with live jazz upstairs (Roberta Flack was discovered there). More bars are clustered a few blocks away by Eastern Market (around Seventh Street). There you'll find great jazz at Ellington's; and Bachelor's Mill, a club that's popular with gay African American men.
If all the politics get to be too much, for a welcome break hit one of Pennsylvania Avenue's dive bars – Zack's, Lil' Pub, the Tune Inn.
Dupont/West End
Dupont Circle has been a popular neighborhood with Washington's gay community for decades. But the neighborhoods around the circle have been growing and diversifying in recent years as well.
The bars along 17th Street, such as JR's, are (and have been) landmarks for gay nightclubbers. Can't-miss stops include Chaos, which offers a great drag brunch every Sunday morning and drag bingo on Tuesday nights, and Foodbar, which features a restaurant, lounge and dance club on its three floors. There is also a cluster of bars along P Street, including Apex a large dance club formerly known as Badlands, the Fireplace, known for its huge fireplace, and Mimi's American Bistro, with its singing waiters. Also near the circle are the Big Hunt, which has almost 30 beers on draft, and Buffalo Billiards, downtown's best (and most swank) pool hall.
South of Dupont, a nightlife hub has formed around the intersection of M Street and Connecticut Avenue. This is the site of several of the city's best upscale clubs: MCCXXIII, Ozio, and the ultra-exclusive 18th Street Lounge, which reserves the right to refuse entry if the color of your pants is "too light." There are also two great after-hours dance clubs – both Five and Red go until the wee hours of the morning.
In recent years, Washington has welcomed a wave of upscale hotel lounges with modern designs and clever drink menus. The Dupont area is home to three of the best: Bar Rouge, Topaz Bar and Helix Lounge. The drinks aren't cheap, unless you hit happy hour.
The West End, which has nothing to do with the one in London, is southwest of Dupont Circle, and might well be called Georgetown East. It's the home of the legendary Brickskeller, which earned a mention in the Guinness Book of World Records for its selection of more than 1,000 beers, and a number of bars for the twenty- to thirty-something set: Lulu's Club Mardi Gras, which can get as wild as the name suggests, the Madhatter and Rumors. An older set loves the friendly bar at Blackie's.
Downtown/MCI Center
The area around the MCI Center has grown exponentially with real estate development, and the nightlife scene there has become diverse. You'll find steakhouses (Angelo and Maxie's); brewpubs (Capitol City Brewing Company and Gordon Biersch); steakhouses that brew their own beer (District Chophouse); restaurant bars with excellent cocktail menus (Poste and Zola) and Fado, the largest Irish pub in Washington.
A recent addition to the 'hood is R.F.D., which has 40 beers on draft -- Washington's largest selection -- and several hundred more in bottles. Most of the cooking done in the restaurant also involves beer.
Also around that way, the F Street corridor is home to Platinum, a large New York-style dance club; the VIP Club, a very upscale four-floor lounge and dance club; Home, a more intimate dance club and lounge that spreads over four narrow levels; and Polly Esther's, a weekend-only club that made its reputation with '70s and '80s dance music, although they play Top 40 and house as well these days.
Georgetown
Long considered a must-do area for Washington nightlife, this neighborhood draws on two nearby student bodies (Georgetown and George Washington universities), students who come from area universities to party with those local students, and visitors who go to the clubs and bars after dinner or shopping trips.
Like Adams Morgan, most of Georgetown's nightlife is set around one intersection – in this case, Wisconsin and M streets.
Since Georgetown is essentially the closest thing Washington has to a "college town," you'll find plenty of young people drinking beer in spots like the Rhino Pump House or Garrett's. The Tombs, located within walking distance of Georgetown University, is a traditional spot for students and alumni, although it seldom gets as rowdy as the Rhino. The Third Edition, the bar used as a location in "St. Elmo's Fire," draws a mix of young professionals and students; while the happy hour at Clyde's is famous for its half-price hamburgers. Mr. Smith's, another local fixture, offers a great burger and piano players who take requests (a teenaged Tori Amos once tickled the ivories here). Those who fancy themselves too stylish for pitchers of Miller Lite head for Modern, Georgetown's first upscale lounge with a dress code, or the restaurant-cum-lounge Mie N Yu.
In the summer, Georgetown is a great place to spend an evening. The bars on the Waterfront – Riverside Grille, Tony and Joe's, Sequoia, Sole – are packed with people enjoying the great views and the cool breeze blowing in from the Potomac River. Tiki bars, located inside Third Edition and farther up Wisconsin at the Deck, are packed.
U Street
This street has long held a special place in the Washington nightlife scene, especially for the city's African American population. In the 1920s, this was the "Black Broadway," where a young Duke Ellington and his band performed. Later, Ella Fitzgerald and Count Basie could be found at such nightspots as the imposing Howard Theatre. In the '50s and '60s, luminaries like Miles Davis and Thelonius Monk played in its clubs. Less jazz is performed here these days, but U Street has a number of great options for going out.
More recently, U Street was home to Washington's burgeoning hip-hop scene, but the closing of several clubs (including Republic Gardens and State of the Union) has dispersed the crowds. (Gardens owner Marc Barnes is rennovating the spot; meanwhile, he opened the megaclub Dream in late 2001.) Hip-hop still rules Bar Nun, although the club has has great open-mike nights as well.
Those looking for jazz can sample it at the renovated Bohemian Caverns, which has hosted everyone from Ellington to Monk to Billie Holiday. For smaller, less-pricey shows, consider U-topia, where the excellent Pam Bricker and her trio perform on Sunday nights; Twins Jazz, which hosts great musicians while serving traditional Ethiopian food; or Chi-Cha Lounge, a cozy, warm place that has Latin and Brazilian jazz, great drinks and comfy sofas.
Washington's two finest venues for live music co-exist just off the U Street corridor. The enormous 9:30 Club hosts most major names that come through town -- from Radiohead to the Roots. Up-and-coming bands and larger local groups perform at the Black Cat, which primarily features indie rock and alternative music on its two stages; the smaller back stage is often used for dance nights on weekends. Also inside the Black Cat are the large Red Room Lounge, popular with Washington hipsters, one of the city's finest jukeoxes, and, welcoming for both vegans and carnivores, the Food For Thought Cafe.
Other U Street options include Kingpin, a hidden hangout favored by a mix of scenesters; 2:K:9, a huge dance club located near Howard University; the Velvet Lounge, a venue for local rock bands, and Cafe Saint-Ex, a French-inspired brasserie. The cellar-level lounge, Gate 54, has DJs spinning every night.
Maryland and Virginia
Regardless of what you hear, there are nightlife options outside Washington's city limits. Here we'll look at two of the most popular (and most accessible destinations) – Arlington, Va., and Bethesda, Md.
Arlington
Arlington's nightlife center is Wilson Boulevard, a long stretch of road that runs directly above Metro's Orange Line, giving visitors easy access to its bars and clubs. Get off at Courthouse for Dr. Dremo's Taproom, a divey joint with a great selection of home-brewed beer. Also there are Summers Restaurant, a bar favored by local soccer fans who gather on Saturday mornings to catch the latest action from Italy and England, and Gua-Rapo, a chic lounge that shares ownership (and musicians) with Chi-Cha.
One stop farther is Clarendon, a lively neighborhood with a younger crowd. A trio of great live music venues are found here – Iota, Whitlow's on Wilson and Galaxy Hut, although the latter two are also great places to grab a beer and hang out. Mr. Days is great for watching the big game, and the Clarendon Grill is good for burgers and a brew. Across the street is Virginia's first big-time dance club, the deco-style Clarendon Ballroom, which has swing dancing on Tuesdays, electronic and hip-hop on Friday, and happy hours on its rooftop deck.
Hop back on the Metro for one more stop and you hit Ballston, where you'll find Carpool, a bar-restaurant-pool-hall-pick-up joint that is always packed with young professionals ready to party. There's another branch of the Rock Bottom Brewery (located in Ballston Commons Mall) and the Rio Grande Cafe (also known as Uncle Julio's), where the free chips are hot and the margaritas are loaded with tequila.
Bethesda
Not to be confused with Bethesda's vast array of international dining options, most of the bars and clubs seem to be limited to places designed for (and populated by) the "Young Professional" set in its twenties and thirties: Tommy Joe's, Willie and Reed's and the Barking Dog.
Sure, there are other options -– Flanagan's, an Irish pub with darts, live music and three kinds of stout and Uncle Jed's, a roadhouse plopped down in the middle of Bethesda, complete with air hockey table.
Griping aside, Bethesda has all the makings of a good night out, especially since so few of the bars ever charge a cover. Our favorites are Montgomery's Grille, a YP magnet that has the widest draft beer selection in Bethesda and a great outdoor patio; Rock Bottom Brewery, the only microbrewery (and some of the best beer) in town; and the Austin Grill, which is a great place for margaritas and people-watching.
– Fritz Hahn