The fact that pilgrimages haven't gotten much press since Chaucer's
day doesn't mean there isn't hallowed ground to track in Washington. If
you've got a day to spend, we've got the pope's tiara, a window of 10,500 pieces of glass and a minaret with a view looking toward Mecca.
The National Shrine
The ornately painted ceiling of the National Shrine.
(Reginald A. Pearman Jr./washingtonpost.com)
|
|
The Basilica of the National Shrine of the Immaculate Conception is
home to Pope Paul VI's coronation tiara. He relinquished it shortly after
assuming his role as the head of the Roman Catholic Church in the 1960s,
opting for the more understated miter now worn by popes. For some time
afterward, this encased crown drew huge numbers of people to the shrine. But the primary attraction to the basilica remains the Virgin Mary the structure was erected out of devotion to her. Catholic communities all over the country have given works of art in her honor.
In recent years, the African American Catholic community donated the Chapel of Our Mother of Africa on the crypt level of the shrine. It's composed of three main elements: a statue of Our Mother of Africa
and her Divine Son, an ebony rendering of her Crucified Son, and a
bas-relief depicting the movement of African Americans from slavery through
the civil rights period.
Docents narrate the stories behind each
chapel and mosaic. Here's an example of what you might miss without Catholic schooling: In the sanctuary of the Upper Church are 15
chapels, representing the sorrowful, glorious and joyful mysteries of the
rosary (a prayer sequence consisting of one Our Father, 10 Hail
Marys and one Glory Be to the Father).
Free tours are given between 9 and 11 a.m. and 1 and 3 p.m.,
Monday through Saturday, but the volunteers will make every effort to show
visitors around at any time.
Washington National Cathedral
| |
Flying buttresses line the south wall of the Washington National Cathedral.
(Reginald A. Pearman Jr./washingtonpost.com)
|
While the basilica takes its architectural cues from Rome,
the Gothicism of the Washington Cathedral hails from the Middle Ages. Much
of the general guided tour is placed in that context. Docents set the
medieval church scene as a place of social activity, where people making
pilgrimages to the cathedral camped out for days at a time.
The stained-glass windows on the exterior walls of the nave
were educational for churchgoers, most of whom couldn't read. Here, tiers of windows speak to different themes. For instance, the top level tells bible stories
and the middle level addresses accomplishments by Americans (one depicts
travel to the moon). A docent helps you "read" each window, but the most
magnificent one the West Rose Window made of more than 10,000 glass panes is
also one of the simplest. "Let there be light" is its theme.
If you have more time, take the Behind-the-Scenes Tour. But be
forewarned: it's not for anybody who's wary of heights at one point you actually
walk over the vaulted ceiling, 10 stories up.
The Islamic Center
Moslems in prayer at the Islamic Center.
(Reginald A. Pearman Jr./washingtonpost.com)
|
|
Among the spires in this capital city is the Islamic Center's minaret,
just down the street from the Washington Cathedral. The center welcomes visitors in
the mosque between 10 a.m. and 5 p.m., as long as they observe a modest
dress code (this includes head coverings for women and no bare arms or
legs).
Don't expect individual attention, but don't be afraid to ask
questions or to enter the mosque during daily prayers (there are five each
day, so odds of arriving during one are pretty good). On any day but
Friday, when crowds of thousands flock to mandatory prayers, you can see
the mosque's tiled interior, with its delicate columns and Arabic
inscriptions.
And just in case you need help finding your way home after your pilgrimage, be sure to take note of the Mihrab, the niche in the middle of the mosque wall that indicates the direction of Mecca.
--Margaret Hutton