"Mind with the Dirty Man" is so aggressively lowbrow that "All in the Family" seems like effete sophistication. Comic stubby Kaye, who whopped us all up singing "Sit Down You're Rockn' the Boat" its first time around, is bluff as the mind and raunchy as the man at the Hayloft Dinner Theater for a run through April 3.

Jules Tasca's script began its journey to Manassas under the august sponsorship of the Los Angeles Mark Taper Forum, which introduced it as an experimental production in July '72 and reproduced it for the following winter series, which included such other creators as William Shakespeare and Leonard Bernstein.

If this seems teddibly highbrow, be disabused. Tasca sounds like a writer of blackout sketches for Minsky's Burlesque resurrected for present permissiveness.

He imagines a church-going Baltimore suburbanite, backbone of the Maryland Board of Movie Censors. His and wife Alma's son, Clayton, left home to become a porno film producer and now returns to take over the local Gem, where "The Sound of Music" has had 67 return engagements. Clayton and his sleeping companion, Divina, plan their marriage as an opening night bonanza.

If Clayton and Divina have been open about their lives, Dad and Mom have been secretive. On that rests Tasca's collection of gags and situations which, it's stunning to report, had the Manassas diners screaming and roaring with laughter.

Sample dialogue: "You ought to read 'Everything I Always Wanted to Know about Sex But Was Afraid to Ask.'"

"Not only was I afraid to ask, i was afraid to buy the book. So I shoplifted a copy in Baltimore." Screams of laughter.

Veteran of the borscht circuit, vaudeville and the clubs, Kaye knows how to accompany every syllable with a grimace, a pause and an eye-pop, and director Terry Kester has guided Kaye's six companions in the steps of their master. Chef Georges Richa's International Menu No. 4 is tastier.