Spring is one of the best times to repot house plants. Foliage plants such as philodendrons and rubber plants can be kept in the same pot two or three years but plants that make rapid growth usually need repoting once a year and sometimes more often.

Turn the plant upside down, tap the rim of the pot on the bottom to loosen the ball of soil and let it slide out instead of trying to pull it out with your hand.

If roots are visible and matted, a change to the next larger size pot is desirable. But sometimes it is best to repot into a smaller pot. This is true of the roots do not fully occupy the soil and cannot be seen, or of the roots have been damaged by being in too large a pot together with over-watering and poor drainage.

The problem with too large a pot is that some of the soil is not occupied by roots, it stays wet too long, and increases the risk of root-rot, one of the serious diseases of house plants.

Water the plant with slightly warm water before checking it for repotting. This reduces the chance of root injury. The plant can be removed from the pot with less cracking of the soil ball if the soil is moist.

Before using new clay pots, soak them in water for about six hours. Otherwise, they will absorb a lot of water from the soil after repotting, thus robbing the plant of its share.

The packages of potting soil sold at most large garden centers are suitable for repotting. Be sure not to set the plant deeper in the soil than it was before.

Recently purchased house plants should not need repotting for several months.

One of the best things that can be done for tulips and hyacinths after they finish blooming is to cut off the faded flowers.

Tulips and hyacinths usually produce their best flowers the first year after they are planted. The second year they are not as good as the first, the quality depending to a large degree on the treatment they have received.

Daffodils and crocuses should be better the second year and even better the third year. This is because they multiply and there are more flowers.

The foliage of all spring bulbs should be encouraged to stay green as long as possible. The foliage produces the food which is stored in the bulb for next year's flowers.

It is good idea to fertilize tulips and hyacinths lighty with 5-10.5 fertilizer soon after they finish blooming. It will help promote healthier foliage which in turn will produce more food.

Keep weeds out of your tulip and hyacinth beds. They compete for moisture and nutrients. Water them during dry weather. The longer the foliage remains in good condition, the more food it will produce.

Many gardeners dig their tulip bulbs every two or three years.If you are very particular and can afford it, is better to dig them every year and keep only the largest bulbs for the display garden (the smaller one can be planted elsewhere).

If the bulbs are dug, they should be stored for the summer in a cool, dark place.

Daffodils multiply as times goes by.The original bulb splits up forming several small new bulbs which, in time, become big bulbs. After four or five years the clump becomes crowded and stops blooming.

When the foliage turns brown in late spring, dig up the large clumps, separate the bulbs, and replant at once, a single bulb in each place. They should start blooming again the following spring or the spring after that.