The schoolchildren who waited outside the mayor of Authon's office to catch a glimpse of Jacinte Giscard d'Estaing, and her new husband Philippe Guibout, following the civil ceremony, were disappointed to see the bride in a red suit rather than a traditional white dress. But for the religious ceremony in the afternoon, the daughter of the president of France wore a white lightweight flannel dress and beaded vest by Jean-Louis Scherrrer (who had also designed the red suit.) Scherrer is a friend and pet designer of Nanne-Aymone Giscard d'Estaing who wore customes by Chanel and Dior for the two wedding ceremonies of her daughter. (By the way, plans are now being made by Neiman-Marcus to bring the current, very lady-like collection of couture and ready-to-wear by Scherrer to Washington in the fall.)
The Paris collections ended with a blast, not a whimper. Fabrice Emaer, owner of Paris' Studio 54 equivalent, invited his 5,000 closest friends to a first year birthday party. The invitation called for evening dress or party clothes. For many of the designers, Ungaro, Saint Laurent and others, this meant black tie. Claude Montana, in his usual Air Force windbreaker and jeans stood shyly in the dark under the stairs watching the crowds. There were a few American Retailers, including George Phillip Kelly, once Garfinckel's president now head of Marshall Field, Bob Sakowitz of the store of the same name in beige satin jacket, Washington model Michele Paradise was in red satin, New York model Toukie Smith (sister of designer Willi Smith) in tiers of red tulle. Big shouldered leather jackets by Montana and baggy leather pants by Kenzo were among the favorite garb of many in the crowd, but for the most part it was a freaky, crowded scene with guys in drag, some women wearing little but fringe, feathers springing from the heads of many and one guy in an umbrella hat. One woman even decorated her hair with a feather trimmed mule.
The new gimmick at the Paris shows-laser beams. The pet music-Superman. The big shoe-the cone heel. Paris hemlines mostly just at the knee, even above. Important exception- Yves Saint Laurent who shortened his length to just below the knee.
Thierry Mugler, who has taken off 10 pounds, warned all his models to lose weight. "I want you to look like a bag of bones," he said.
Sharing a Vaseline pot at the Bercher show- Washington models Michele Paradise and Beverly Lee. Also on the runways, models Gloria Burgess and Ramona Ridge, born in Washington and now living in Paris.
Paris punks have turned in their black leather garb and Swastica pins for Army green or blue Mao Jackets and shiny red Mao pins. They are finding them at a few Arab neighborhood boutiques, according to a well-known Paris punk who calls himself Titus, and wore his suit to all the shows as well as the Le Palace party.
Between shows in Paris, American buyers checked out local stores for fresh ideas on style and displays. From the runway the push is on for bigh shoulders and suits, but in the stores, the rage in Paris is T-shirts of all sizes and shapes including the supersize and skinny shrunken varieties, sweetheart necklines and others. At Prisunic, Paris' classy five-and-dime, the fastest selling oversize T-shirts have Superman printed on the front. At Kenzo's Jap boutique, the big sellers are Kenzo's striped T-shirt dresses, at Agnes B., huge pale T-shirts in geometric prints.
And what was being worn by the audience at the Paris show? Lots of Calvin Klein-looking clothes, easy sportswear separates, and a lot of the comfortable clothes the designers seem to be working awfully hard to replace. Two fashion independents, Karl Lagerfeld pal Anna Piaggi showed up in cockfeathers and gold dusted satin and trade paper editor Marian McEvoy each day in a mix of fleamarket and fashion designer favorites.
Diana Parker, who owns boutiques in Annapolis and White Flint, has worked out the perfect travel garb formula for her twice yearly trips to Paris and Milan. For the trip home this week, she was wearing black strech "highwaters" above ankle pants by Maya, a black body suit and loose, unlined jacket from Pinky and Dianne, and backless stiletto heels . . . "all the easier to slip off," she says.
Kenzo's new perfume will be out next spring. He's calling it King Kong, but not because it has the smell of fur and animal. Actually it is quite floral and strong. "We didn't have to spend much money researching the name. No one else wanted it," laughed Kenzo partner Gilles Raysse. "We're laughing at ourselves with the name," said Raysse, who has already had 1,600 mirrored bottles made up in Japan ready to fill. Kenzo has set aside $4 million to plug the perfume over the first 16 months, half for advertising and promotion.
(Kenzo, by the way, may have been the first French designer to start working in China. They not only buy yarn there but have manufactured leather accessories as well as some clothing there for five years.) CAPTION: Pictures 1 and 2, Diana Parker in stretch travel garb, top left; Maud Frizon cone-heeled shoe for Thierry Mugler, left; Ramona Ridge, center, photos by Nina S. Hyde-The Washington Post: Illustration, Wedding dress designed by Jean-Louis Scherrer for Jacinte Giscard d'Estaing, sketched by Scherrer for The Washington Post.