A letter from Robert F. Miller of Adelphi began with the observation that one of the most pleasant experiences of late spring and summer is eating fresh vegetables.

That got my attention at once because I am a fresh vegetable freak. You can wake me from deep sleep for a salad made from garden vegetables, and I'll respond eagerly.

However, District Liner Miller complained that many supposedly locally grown vegetables have actually been imported from great distances, and are not very fresh. As Miller drives around the countryside, he keeps an eye peeled for vegetable stands, yet even the items sold there are often disappointments to him. He is espcially critical of "farmers' stands" where "freshly picked" corn is offered "at a price markets." This corn often turns out to be "tough, dry and chewy."

Amen, brother. I have lodged the same complaint with the food engineer at our house, but she says she can't help it. "That's the best I can find," she says.

I had begun to suspect that the Russians were buying up all the sweet corn. Then a few days ago, we happened to pass a roadside vegetable truck in our neighbourhood.

"He has corn on display," I noted, fully expecting her to reply, "His stuff is no good." But she fooled me.

"That's Tony," she said. "He has very god produce. Let's stop and look at it."

We stopped and headed at once for a bushel of corn Tony had on display. "Is it really fresh," my wife asked.

"You betcha," Tony said. "Just be sure you cook it right. You American overcook everything, and you ; ; ; ; much water. A half ci uplf cup of water. That's all. Four minutes. No more . . Sweet as sugar.

He was right, and I bow to his superior knowledge. Tony turned out to be a genuine expert on the subject of corn, not a mere writer who uses it in his columns.

My roommate used a full cup of water, and she cooked one ear for six minutes instead of four because its kernels were larger, indicating that it was not as young as the other ears.

All of Tony's corn turned out to be excellent, but I am reluctant to identify him further because, as we learn from Gold's Law, nothing is more certain to deteriorate than the quality of goods or services one recommends to his friends.

It will suffice to say that I was happy to learn that the Russians had not bought up all our best corn. The yellow stuff I had samples previously this season was more suitable for gasohol than for human consumption.