FATSO -- AMC Skyline, K-B Fine Arts, K-B Georgetown Square, Loehmann's Plaza, Riverdale Plaza and Roth's Mount Vernon.

In this month's Vogue, a woman confesses that "My involvement with forbidden food is not only as intense as any human love affair I've had, but far more compelling as well."

At "The Art of Dining," Kennedy Center audiences roared with recognition as the patrons of a great restaurant went after their food with X-rated passion.

And in the new film "Fatso," the most sensual scene consists of three junk-food junkies sitting around discussing such wicked treats as Reese cups melted into doughnuts and chocolate-chip ice cream, rather than vanilla, on top of apple pie.

It seems that popular culture, having long maintained that sex is the only basic urge, motivating all human behavior, has recognized the existence of another natural craving. It's about time.

"Fatso," the first movie to be written and directed by Anne Bancroft, who also acts a major role in it, is a small comedy. One could see it as a low-key television family-comedy series, with the same joke motif being done in an endless variety of examples. But it's a sweet picture, because of the passions it sympathizes with, which include not only food, but also extended family. That one might deeply love one's siblings and cousins is another emotional possibility that goes almost totally unrecognized on the screen.

Bancroft and Dom DeLuise play sister and brother in a close Italian-American family where love and food are hopelessly intertwined. A funeral, a birthday, a friendly gesture to a shopper in the family store, a solace in a crisis -- everything has its accompanying food. Even religion involves opening the mouth to receive a wafer.

If these people, along with Ron Carey as another brother and Candice Azzara as the romatic heroine, are stereotypes, laughing, crying, hugging and cooking, they are such in the best sense, not a derogatory one. They are shown representing good traits and understandable weaknesses that are common to humanity in general, with some details from one particular group.