An uncooked meal combines the benefits of an unheated kitchen with the virtues of undrained energy sources. In return, it provides something cool, something crunchy and light, something that, in short, you can face during a heat wave.

The ingredients put into salads are so personal and depend so heavily on both inclination and what's available, that it's hard to tell anyone just how it should be done.

One man's summer savory is another man's sandy spinach, so read the recipe, consult the greengrocer and substitute, substitute, substitute. MENU Indulgence Salad Whole Wheat Crackers Fruit Tray with Orange-Peanut-Butter Dip INDULGENCE SALAD (4 to 6 servings) 1 small head butter, Boston or red leaf lettuce 1/2 head romaine or iceberg lettuce 1/2 cucumber, peeled and chopped 2 or 3 radishes, sliced 2 ripe tomatoes, peeled and cut in chuncks 1 carrot, scraped and sliced thin 3 scallions, sliced 1 tin (3.66 ounces) smoked oysters, drained 1 jar (6 ounces) marinated artichoke hearts, undrained 1/4 pound mushrooms, sliced 1 yellow crookneck squash, cut in half and sliced 3 to 4 tablespoons sunflower seeds 1 large handful (about 1/2 cup) bean sprouts 3 to 4 tablespoons grated parmesan cheese Salad dressing as desired

Combine all ingredients and toss thoroughly. The artichoke hearts' marinade provides an adequate, though skimpy, dressing, but for real indulgence pour on your favorite French, Italian or oil and vinegar mixture. ORANGE-PEANUT-BUTTER DIP (4 to 6 servings) 2 tablespoons orange juice concentrate 1/4 cup peanut butter 1 cup plain yogurt

Stir together ingredients, or mix in blender. FRUIT TRAY

Include six fruits. I suggest 1/2 pint strawberries, 1 peach, 1 banana, 1/4 cantaloupe, 1 slice watermelon, 1/2 can (20 ounce) unsweetened pineapple chunks. GROCERY LIST

Two heads lettuce -- choose from butter, Boston, red leaf, romaine or iceberg, 1 cucumber, 1 bunch radishes, 2 ripe tomatoes, 3.66-ounce tin smoked oysters, 6-ounce jar marinated artichoke hearts, 1/4 pound mushrooms, 1 yellow crookneck squash, bean sprouts, 6-ounce can frozen orange juice concentrate, 8 ounces plain yogurt, 1 pint strawberries, 1 peach, 1 banana, 1 cantaloupe, watermelon (smallest size available), 20-ounce can unsweetened pineapple chunks. STAPLES TO HAVE ON HAND

2 to 3 radishes, 1 carrot, sunflower seeds, parmesan cheese, peanut butter.

Game Plan:

Wash greens, pat dry and place in refrigerator to crisp. Mix orange juice, peanut butter and yogurt for dip, put in refrigerator to chill. Cut up remaining salad ingredients and toss in bowl, add greens, cheese and salad dressing and eat.

Wash and cut up strawberries. Place bowl containing dip in middle of tray or large plate. Arrange strawberries like 5 spokes of a wheel around dip bowl. Fill spaces between strawberry rows with banana slices, peach chunks, cantaloupe balls, watermelon balls and pineapple chunks. Serve while everyone else sits languidly on front porch.