Kalorama (2 miles, 2 hours): "One of the finest collections of Beaux-Arts-inspired mansions in the United States," says the guide, "handsomely developed, richly treed and topographically varied."

A "really beautiful neighborhood," adds the couple, with "a European ambiance" stemming from the concentration of embassies and chanceries.

The view of St. Matthew's Cathedral Dome from Jefferson Place NW: A landmark on the midtown tour (2 3/4 miles, 1 1/4 hours), you see it as you walk along Jefferson Place, says Allan Hodges, "framed by buildings like a European treat."

Old Anacostia (1 1/2 miles, 3/4 hours): Nowhere else in Washington, says the guide of this predominantly black residential area, "does there exist such a homogenous collection of late-19th-century small-scale frame and brick buildings." The "pleasant environment" stems from the buildings "working together with remarkable succes to create a cohesive and expressive whole."

Shaw School Urban Renewal Area/Logan Circle (2 miles, 1 1/2 hours): The neighborhood was badly damaged in the riots of 1968, but, says Allan Hodges, the rehabilitation now underway makes it "interesting."

It's "physically very lovely to walk around in" -- though the book suggests you go "as couples or small groups." The architecture is "the same as Georgetown's." And the restored O Street Market "is a gem -- more lively than Eastern Market."

Georgetown (3 1/2 miles, 2 1/4 hour): A "fun tour," say the Hodgeses, where the emphasis is less the historic aspects of the posh neighborhood than on "who lives where." The tour passes by the homes of U.S. senators and other current and former leaders.

16th Street NW/Meridian Hill (1 1/2 miles, 2 hours): "An impressive boulevard," notes the guide, lined with "elegant mansions." Active restoration, says Allan Hodges, makes it another interesting walk.

Southwest/Waterfront Urban Renewal Area (2 miles, 1 1/2 hours): For the city planner, says Hodges, who is one himself, "The tour gives a very good look at urban planning and design." A feature he especially enjoys: "It takes you through alleyways to get the right view at the right time."