Q: For years we have been shooting pictures for prints and have been very happy with our photo album. Now, we decided that it would be nice to have slides to project, expecially of the "print" pictures that we've taken. Is there any way to have slides made from color prints? If so, what's the best way to have it done? A: Yes, you can have slides made from color prints. The Kodak labs, and others, can do this for you. The best and cheapest way is to send in the original color negative -- the slides can them be contact-printed directly. This is much better than sending in the prints which then have to be copied by means of an internegative for which there is an added charge.
If you choose, you can make the slide copies yourself and even develop them. The film to use is Kodak Veri-Color Slide Film (S.O. 279) which can be bought in 36 exposure, 35 mm rolls. The film developer to use is C-41, the very same solution that is used for negative color material -- such as Kodacolor. Q: Can you supply information about photo clubs in the Philadelphia area? I have tried several sources with no success. A: Right in Philadelphia you can inquire at the Photographic Society of America, 2005 Walnut Street, Philadelphia 19103, and ask for member clubs in your area. Another source is: PhotoGraphic Magazine, Camera Club Editor, 8490 Sunset Boulevard, Los Angeles, Calif. 90069 -- for country-wide camera clubs which will be sent if you include a list of postal zip zones and a stamped self-address envelope. Q: How do professional photographers take action shots such as one I recently saw on Ice Capades? And how can I do likewise? A: The only way that you can do likewise is with a great deal of hard work, repeats of the action and big electronic flash units that stop the motion. Pro-action pictures are exiting and many amateur photographers would like to emulate the results. Often they "push" the film too far in order to compensate for the lack of light-power. But this doesn't work because the grainy result doesn't look as slick. Another difference is that the pro-action shots were usually taken with multiple flash units that give spotlight effects. A third advantage the pros have is that they can set up the action from their point of view and have the "experts" do their thing at just the right distance from the camera.
But if you would like to take some shots of performers under spotlights when it is permitted, use Type B (tungsten) Ektachrome 160 and double the ASA to 320. At this setting you can take some excellent action shots under bright spotlights, and come close to the pro results. Q: I have some old 8 mm Pathex home movies dating from about 1932. The sprocket holes run right up the middle of the film, one hole between each frame. This design didn't remain on the market very long because a malfunction of the feed mechanism could permit the sprocket to puncture every picture frame until the projector was stopped.
Can this film still be converted to a modern arrangement with the sprocket holes on one side, and if so, how can I go about having it done? A: You've really got an oldie and I had a lot of trouble locating an expert on it.
The old-style 8 mm film was really 16 mm with the sprocket holes up the center of the film as well as on both margins. The center holes were staggered so that the film could be exposed on one half (8 mm) and reversed (forming another 8 mm width) and re-exposed. The 16 mm original, exposed on both sides, was then cut apart to form two 8 mm strips. This type of film, 8 mm, can be converted to super 8, which only has perforations on one side and results in a bigger image.
Kemp Niver of Los Angeles is an expert familiar with the 8 mm Pathex camera. He told me that there were several models with different film sizes available, one being about 9 mm wide.
The idea of using sprocket holes up the middle of the film sank this product because if the film were improperly threaded the frame could be ruined -- as you observed. Because of this unusual feature, most labs can't handle the conversion of this type of film to super 8. But Kemp says that he would take a look and suggest what could be done. (Kemp Niver's shop is located in Hollywood at 910 North Fairfax, Los Angeles, Calif. 90046; Phone: 213/656-4420.)
Another factor that you will have to consider is that the original Pathex was a hand-wound affair, which means that the speed varied with the amount of tension of the spring wind. As a result the movement of the subjects will also vary, so that when transferred to modern speeds, grandfather may turn out spryer now than when originally photographed.