As committees and commissions continue the 27-year-old debate on a suitable memorial for FDR, one can picture the late president gritting his teeth around his cigarette holder and sneering aristocratically at the models of instant Stonehenge and gardens-and-granite. He might, if he could, quote the epitaph on the simple stone of British architect Sir Christopher Wren: If you would seek my monument, look around you. The only formal memorial to FDR in town is a BLOCK OF MARBLE the size of the president's desk in a small park at Ninth and Pennsylvania Avenue NW, across from the National Archives. The whole city bears the mark of Roosevelt and the New Deal, and, especially now as Washington marks the hundreth anniversary of his birth, Roosevelt is all around town -- in murals and sculptures and other works executed under his relief program for artists; in places where he lived, worked and relaxed; and in lectures and exhibits on the man and his presidency. Much of the art, not surprisingly, has a New Deal motif. Look for example at the sculpture "Man Controlling Trade" in front of the FEDERAL TRADE COMMISSION at Sixth and Pennsylvania Avenue NW. The muscular man besting the straining horse is supposed to symbolize the FTC's task in taming trade for the benefit of the people. Michael Lantz, a 29-year-old instructor in a Works Program Administration program, carved it out of limestone on the site. Two other New Deal-financed sculptures of note are hidden away in the interior courtyards of the D.C. MUNICIPAL CENTER at 300 Indiana Avenue NW. On one wall of the west courtyard is an 81-foot long ceramic tile frieze entitled "Democracy in Action." The tiles, principally blue, tan and buff, extoll the work of the D.C. police and fire departments and the Department of Motor Vehicles. Designed and executed by Waylande Gregory, the frieze shows members of these departments directing traffic, returning a lost dog to a little boy, putting out a fire, directing pedestrians around placard- carrying protesters and apprehending criminals -- a scene that aroused public controversy because the policeman appeared to be grabbing the accused by the scruff of the neck and hitting him with a club. (Sorry, no vignette of a car being towed to a police impoundment lot, but this was installed in 1941.) The very Deco frieze in the east courtyard, designed by New York sculpture Hildreth Meiere, shows the health and welfare benefits showered on residents of the District of Columbia. The blue, yellow, green, orange, brown and white tiles show social workers, doctors, nurses, meat inspectors and benevolent bureaucrats helping people fill out forms. The government also commissioned artists to beautify the insides of federal buildings -- principally with murals. Murals are found in post offices all over the country, but in Washington they're practically wall- to-wall. Many portray the glories of the New Deal. In the main corridor of the DEPARTMENT OF HEALTH AND HUMAN SERVICES, Third and Independence SW, Ben Shahn depicts a farm worker filling out an application for a Social Security card. At the east end of the Benjamin Franklin Station Post Office, 12th and Pennsylvania NW, is a mural by Alexander Brook showing a scene at a New Deal Civilian Conservation Corps outpost. It's entitled "Worker in Camp Reading Letter from Home While Other Workers Discuss a Point About Surveying." Just outside the cafeteria in the DEPARTMENT OF THE INTERIOR, C Street between 18th and 19th streets NW, is Mitchell Jamieson's mural "An Incident in Contemporary American Life." The incident is the White House three years earlier, resigned from the DAR in protest. Anderson's manager suggested a free, open-air concert at the Lincoln Memorial, and Secretary of Interior Harold Ickes got permission from FDR himself to give permission for the concert, attended by about 75,000 people. In the lobby of the GENERAL SERVICES ADMINISTRATION Regional Office at Seventh and D streets SW, Harold Weston's murals show the massive building program of the New Deal, even poking a little fun at the program providing art for these buildings. In the last panel on the north wall is a painting-within- a-painting of a controversial mural that's actually in the New Post Office Building. The offending mural, entitled "Dangers of Mail," shows a white woman stripped by marauding Indians. Weston's version shows a caricature of himself dabbing at the mural with a brush. Writers had to eat, too, and thousands of them were paid $23.86 a week by the Works Progress Administration to write guidebooks to states, cities, regions -- and the District of Columbia. The original edition of WASHINGTON, CITY AND CAPITAL, an 1,140-page tome published in 1937, was sold by the Superintendent of Documents for $3. It has sections on everything from the city's Indian heritage to religious trends and can lead you on tours of government buildings, churches, historic houses, neighborhoods and suburbs. Appendices include a chronology of the city and a list of every monument and statue. The updated, 1968 version (Washington, D.C., A Guide to the Nation's Capital, Hastings House) does almost the same thing but in only 512 pages. Inclusive and encyclopedic as they are, the guides don't tell a lot about FDR's personal life. Long before he was president, Roosevelt was a Washington personality. In 1914, when he was appointed Assistant Secretary of the Navy, Franklin settled down with Eleanor in a red-brick residence belonging to an aunt at 1733 N Street NW. The house, which had a rose arbor in back where Eleanor liked to breakfast in fair weather, was torn down and replaced by the Canterbury Apartments -- now THE CANTERBURY HOTEL. But you can sit by the fireside of a house of the same epoch just up the street at the Tabard Inn (1739 N Street NW) and probably drink and eat better than you would have chez Roosevelt. Eleanor and Franklin spent their energies on things other than entertaining, and their efforts were described by their mutual cousin, Alice Roosevelt Longworth, as "crown roast, indifferent wine and lots of knitting." Mrs. Longworth lived at that time just around the corner, at 1736 M Street NW, with her dapper congressman husband. Eleanor and Alice had disliked each other from childhood, and Eleanor rarely attended the Longworths' entertainments; but Franklin, according to his friend and relation Joseph Alsop, visited frequently, usually in the late afternoon, and always had a "grand time." Eleanor's relationship with cousin Alice deteriorated still further when she began to suspect that Mrs. Longworth was encouraging FDR's romance with Lucy Mercer, a genteel but impoverished young southerner whom Eleanor hired as social secretary. Lucy lived in an apartment house at 2002 P STREET NW, but was almost a member of the Roosevelt household, both on N Street and later at 2131 R STREET NW. Even after he moved into the White House, FDR returned to the Dupont Circle neighborhood on occasion. On Christmas Day 1941, he and Winston Churchill attended services at FOUNDRY METHODIST CHURCH, 1500 16th Street NW. They sat in the sixth pew on the right, which is marked by a small brass plate.