Hooker was sacked after Chancellorsville, but it took a while. Lee rested his men for a month and then headed north again, to forage in the Pennsylvania Dutch country, land of milk and honey and shoeleather. Once again he divided his army, and once again he just barely got away with it. This time the Federals, now under George Meade, were also strung out along several of the roads that converged on peaceful little Gettysburg. The fighting lasted three days; on the last of them, July 3, 1863, Lee flung away the flower of his army in the foolish frontal assault known as Pickett's Charge. But once again the Yankees let him get away. Whatever it suffered during the battle, Gettysburg ever since has made a fine living out of catering to the folks who come to visit what Lincoln called "this hallowed ground." There's a lot of shlock, but most of the private exploiters give tourists their money's worth. The point of beginning, as always, should be the visitor center, where an electric map (nominal fee) explains the action. From there you must go to the nearby Cyclorama Center, where a free film alternates with a sound-and-light program (another nominal fee) that even further dramatizes Paul Philippoteaux's stupendous circular painting of the battle. (This odd business of paying fees in a federal park is the result of the government's having recently taken over what were for generations private attractions.) You can drive-it-yourself or NPS-licensed guides will conduct you on a battlefield tour in your own car ($10) or bus ($20), which is novel, and there are several jitney-bus tours at prices ranging from not much to not very much to pretty much. But the all-important sense of the ground is largely lost when you ride at your ease where the men under arms went on foot. The whole of Cemetery Ridge, from Culp's Hill to the Roundtops, is not that much of a hike, and there are scores of monuments along the way. The one straight-out commercial attraction you probably shouldn't miss is the tower that looms over the town (you couldn't miss it if you tried) and gives you the whole sweep of the battlefield. And all this looking around will whet your appetite for the Dutch Pantry restaurant on Business Route 15, which serves authentic and ample Pennsylvania Dutch dishes at modest prices. GETTYSBURG NATIONAL MILITARY PARK -- About two hours (75 miles) from Washington via I-270 to Frederick and U.S. 15 north. Most attractions are open well into the evening from Memorial Day through Labor Day.