Steve Jones has started to make Boy George's new hats for his upcoming American tour. The designer's favorite is an Aztec headdress with a raffia wig spilling out the back. Jones, whose head is shaved not only because he says he looks better that way but because he can try on his creations more easily, also makes hats for the Princess of Wales, French designer Jean-Paul Gaultier, the Japanese design house Commes des Garc,ons -- "and lots of ladies over 80."

He got into millinery as a student at St. Martin's College. "I was in a class with 20 girls who could sew up a wedding dress with their hands tied behind their backs, and I couldn't sew a stitch." One day he noticed a gluepot on the table in the class for millinery design and, "I knew right then that hats were for me."

Jones says hats are having a revival "because they are less serious" and no one really has to wear them. "My customers use them as a pick-me-up, like jewelry or a box of chocolates or perfume," he said.

Katherine Hamnett's T-shirts in silk and cotton have become outspoken and lucrative statements for the antinuclear and environmental movements, with some percentage of sales earnings going to those causes. Her latest campaign is against drugs, the shirts printed in bold black letters: "Stay Alive in 85," "Heroin Free Zone" and more. Hamnett used the youngest model in all the shows, a toddler of less than a year, walking down the runway with mother's help, to show off a shirt and its slogan.

"No one in London wears much real jewelry anymore," said Lady Mary Henderson at the party for London designers and American buyers at Lancaster House earlier this week.

To make the point, and to show her support for the London talent that has lured lots of foreign currency here as well, Lady Henderson, wife of Sir Nicholas Henderson, wore decals from Bodymap on her skirt and handbag. And before the evening was up, she had planted one plunk in the center of her husband's silk tie. The gold bow pin she was wearing was by London costume designers Butler and Wilson, who have made jewelry for Giorgio Armani.