"I don't really like the look of today's model," said Marco Glaviano, a leading fashion photographer for magazines like Vogue and Harper's Bazaar. Glaviano has recently found his idea of a beautiful woman among the ranks of such actresses as Jennifer Beal, Candice Bergen and Linda Gray, rather than professional models.

"My goal is to make a beautiful picture," he told his audience last Monday night during the opening lecture of the "Opulence and Illusion: Masters of Fashion Photography" series sponsored by the Smithsonian Institution's Resident Associate Program. "I make the model look as beautiful as possible with lighting, position and of course by using a beautiful woman. My job is to present the clothes in the best possible way. I am not making art, but my photographs should give pleasure to those who look at them."

The Sicilian-born Glaviano says beauty has a great deal to do with the emotion provoked by a model's energy and personality. He will make exceptions to the perfect model measurements to get a beautiful face. It's not only the look but the clothes models wear that inspire him. "I can't do a portrait of a girl who is wearing jeans because without the proper clothes I cannot imagine what the feeling should be. She must have the whole ensemble." He added that he can only work with a model for about six months before he starts to see the same poses over and over again.

Other fashion photographers that will participate in the course are Barbara Bornick, Barbra Walz, Rico Puhlmann, James Moore and Robert Farber.