Tressed for Success: Long Locks are Back

Washington hair stylist Bernard Portelli is one of those cheering the return to long hair. "Short hair s matter of fashion, but long hair is more natural,"said the Frenchborn hair stylist who recetlys opened Okyo in Georgetown. "When a hairdresser wants to create a new hair style, he does a haircut, always short. But everyone likes naturally long hair."

Portelli says long hair has come along as a relief from the money years of short hair-even for men, insists Portelli, who wear his hair in a ponytail. "Men want to wear long hair now because gay men are wearing their hair so short. Men with long hair are showing they are straight and clear and no problem."

He has had his ponytail 10 years. In the past six months he has cut it just once. "Longer hair is more natural for men and more maschuline. It seems nonsense but it's true."

With women's clothes so simple at the moment, long hair for women is particularly appropriated. "We have to see the hair more than the clothes."

Portelli first came here as a tourist about eight years ago. He returned over a year ago to work here and opened his own salon four months ago. He gave it a Japanese name, Tokyo without the T, "because a French name in this business, like the food business, is passe. A Japanese name sounds more professional, more efficient."

Early in his career at Carita in Paris, Portelli did the hair of Princess Grace of Monaco, Catherine Deneuve, Alain Delon and Omar Sharif. So far he has acquired a number of well-known Washington clients, but he admits quickly, "I want to be the next hairdresser to the first lady and would like to do the hair of Elizabeth Dole."

Move over, Robin Weir. AIDS Fundriser

The AIDS fundraiser cocktail party in New York later this month marks one of the rare occasions when the fashion and beauty crowds have worked together on the same project, and it's the first really all-out effort by either group to raise money for AIDS. The April 29 event is being billed as "The World's Largest Photo Session" and will take place at the New York Convention Center's Crystal Palace. Bill King will be the photographer and among those to be photographed in group are designers Donna Karan, Louis Dell'Olio, Jeffrey Banks, Judith Leiber, Stan Herman, Carolina Herrera, Pearl Nipon and Bob Mackie, plus Grace Mirabella, Geraldine Stutz, Claudette Colbert, Vidal Sassoon, David Brenner and many others. Elizabeth Taylor is also expected to participate in the photo campaign, which has the theme: "AIDS strikes without prejudice." Stephane Kelian, Shoe to Be a Hit

Notes de mode: The shoe scene on Connecticut Avenue will be stepped up when the Stepane Kelian boutique opens there at the end of the month. The Armenian-born Kelain designed the first woven shoes and creates the inventive styles that are shown with the Paris collections of Claude Montana and Jean-Paul Gaultier as well as in his own Paris and New York boutiques. That's Shoe Biz!

And stepping off Connecticut and Wisconsin avenues is Rich's, one of Washington's fine old shoe chains and the oldest family-owned business in Washington. The Rich's Shoe Stores continue downtown and in Chevy Chase. Says Frank Rich, "Frank Rich, "We decided to strengthen the busines and maintain the service standard and taste level and assortment for our customers. Our future is downtown and in Chevy Chase." Sized for Small Fry

"I wish they made it for kids."

Wishing has made it so; The Gap is testing in its Seven Corners, Va., store the same well-selected, well-made, good-value clothes scaled down to kids' sizes in its easy-to-shop setting.

And with sizing so unreliable in kids' clothes, The Gap's sizes, extra small through extra large, work as well as any other size range. Mannequin & Men in Blue

Why is that lady upside down and what are those policeman doing just staring at her?

THat's what a caller wanted to know after seeing the Charles Jourdan window in Chevy Chase. The mannequin was virtually on her back and the policeman cutouts didn't seem to be helping her.

Explains free-lance display artist Nancy Ackerman, who created the controversial window: "I like to work with found objects and this time I used the chains normally used in the store for security of leather garments, to focus attention on new black handbags. I put the mannequin upside down simply to attract attention."

And the policemen? "Raleighs had a display sale and I bought them there. I used them because the jumpsuit on the mannequin had gold buttons and looked a bit military like the policemen. I guess you could say that the policemen were protecting the woman." Getting in Chip Shape

Meanwhile, they are shaping up on Massachusetts Avenue in the Spring Valley Garfinckel's. Starting this past Friday and for seven more weeks to come, nutritionist Romano Horst of Rockville is coaching some of the staff on better eating habits. "We're learning to eat better and can help each other with a Frito Hot Line," said Jane Simpson, Garfinckel's general manager. Chanel Crossing

Hecht's Vice President Nancy Chistolini is wearing her Chanel bow a lot these days. "It is as close as I can get to Chanel for a while," laughs Chistolini, who had planned to be in Paris this week on a working trip for the company. The trip was postponed because of the terrorist attacks in Paris. "The May Company (the parent company of Hecht's) decided it was not in our best interest to travel at this time," she said.

Chistolini's trip is not timed to the Paris showings. "We go looking for ideas for fresh merchandise, for display, as well as color direction, silhouette direction," says Chistolini. They pick up their ideas watching what is being worn on the streets and promoted in the shops. That's where she has gotten ideas about big silver hoop earrings, leggings and denim for summer. "They wear and display things with great imagination and attention to detail. THere are always fresh ideas."

When Chistolini gets to Paris, her first stop will be a Chanel to buy anything from the real Chanel she can afford, then to Galerie Lafayette and the Metro boutiques for the Chanel copies. "I have orders from 10 friends for 10 copies of the Chanel bag. They'll just have to wait a little longer."