For Caroline Kennedy's Groom, Willi Wedding Wear

When Willi Smith started designing his latest collection he dubbed it "totally serious," because he wanted clothes as serious as a navy gabardine blazer and gray flannel trousers mixed with his easy-fitting, unconstructed clothes and sweaters. Little did he know he would get one of the more serious design assignments this year -- the men's clothes for the wedding of Caroline Kennedy and Ed Schlossberg.

Two years ago Schlossberg created a design commissioned by Williwear for a contemporary artists' T-shirts series that also included shirts by Christo and Keith Haring. Now the favor will be returned. For Schlossberg, Smith will create the garb not only for the groom but for the nine ushers as well.

What about Kennedy? As reported here earlier, Carolina Herrera will be designing Kennedy's wedding dress, and Herrecm,28p6 ra's designs are always, well, totally serious. As one would suspect, Kennedy has asked Herrera not to answer any questions about the dress or her wedding. Like any bride, we guess, she wants to surprise her fiance'. To the Victims Go the Spoils

Washingtonians didn't fare so well when W, the well-read fashion pictorial offshoot of Women's Wear Daily, looked at frumpy Washington. But in the June 16 issue, W singles out "Fashion Victims," a term the magazine created long ago for those overdosed in fashion, and none of its pick of the crop is from Washington.

"Two things to remember: At one point or another, just about everybody is a Victim, and, secondly, Victimhood, unpleasant though it may be, does not imply any kind of moral or philosophical deficiencies," writes W. "It merely means that on at least one occasion, someone has dressed badly. Of course, there are women -- and men -- who always look bad. But even that might not be their fault; there are designers who have made substantial fortunes encouraging women to be FVs."

Among those on the W list of indistinction: Princess Caroline and Princess Stephanie, both of Monaco, Gloria von Thurn and Taxis, Mary McFadden, Grace Jones, Tom Wolfe, Bianca Jagger, Goldie Hawn, Joan Collins and Morgan Fairchild. W calls Hollywood "the heartland of the fashion victim." It singles out Imelda Marcos and Michelle Duvalier "whose fashion passions helped topple their husbands." Remember the Mane!

Being hairdresser to Raquel Welch might be reason enough to write a book. Instead Bruno Pittini, the stylist of the Bruno Dessange hair salons, put a photo of client Welch on the cover of his new magazine, called BD, which celebrates his 10 years in business. The hair styles are terrific and the photographs show them off very well. While he shows some sleek styles that seem interchangeable for men and women, his new look, which he appropriately dubs the "gypsy look" or the "messy look," is tousled and, well, messy.

Just as interesting are some of his old styles (he calls them best sellers) that look just as right for today as when they were created. "They have made their way through the fashion without aging a bit," says Bruno on the opening page of the magazine. "The reason for this is simple. I've always preferred to respect the personality of a woman rather than to impose a particular fashion on her. For me, the most beautiful women are those who have found their own style and can let it develop further through fashion." What better example than Raquel Welch? Davy Crockett: The B'ar Facts

Don'ts read this paragraph if you don't like to believe in public images. Davy Crockett never wore a coonskin cap. To reinforce his honest backwoodsman image, he wore a buckskin hunting shirt -- but only when he campaigned -- but no hat. The confusion may have come from an engraving of Nimrod Wildfire wearing a coonskin cap. Wildfire was the main character in an 1831 play, "Lion of the West," which was thought to be a caricature of Crockett.

Crockett, who was always called David, not Davy, according to a National Portrait Gallery spokesman, is the subject of a show at the Smithsonian gallery commemorating the 200th anniversary of his birth, and his death at the Alamo 50 years later. It opened yesterday. Shipshape Designs

With the demise of the Coty Award, the prestige menswear honor is now the Cutty Sark Award, handed out last Sunday at the Penta Hotel in New York. The winners, please, were Robert Stock (as the top U.S. designer), John Weitz (for having held on the longest) and Hector Hernandez (as the up-and-coming new student talent).

Hernandez was introduced by Alexander Julian, a former Cutty Sark winner, who said later, "Hernandez reminded me of myself -- so anxious to get to New York and get to work."

Hernandez, who said his family had to refinance its car to get to the awards ceremony from Texas, gave an honest plea during his acceptance speech -- "I need a job!"

And according to Julian, Hernandez had at least four offers before the night was out.

Other award winners that night: Roger Baugh (as the most promising U.S. designer), Valentino (outstanding international designer), Willi Smith (outstanding sportswear) and Susan Horton (outstanding accessories). Inches From the Knee Like Rings on a Tree

Note de la mode:

New York -- It used to be that short skirts were the prerogative of younger women and older ones stayed with longer, conservative styles. At Mortimers, the bistro at the center of the fashion/social world, you could tell the age of the crowd by their hemlines. The older crowd, which included Vogue editor Grace Mirabella, Cosmo editor Helen Gurley Brown, Pat Mosbacher, wife of former chief of protocol Emil Mosbacher, in a pink Bill Blass, actress Arlene Dahl and socialite editor Consuela Crespi, many of them at a private birthday party Tuesday night for New York socialite Mildred Hillson, were all done up in proper costumes, with skirts always to the knee. Also at Mortimers that night: Hubert de Givenchy and designer Kasper.

The younger, after-dinner bar crowd was faithful to long skirts, some of which were skinny white knits to the ankle, but there were even more very full skirts worn with flat shoes. The favorite tops were the many variations of the deep-armhole turtleneck and black flat-knit, long-sleeve pullovers. Jazzing Up the Industry

Carla Renee Foggie had Lena Horne and Dorothy Dandridge in mind when she designed an off-the-shoulder gown as her entry in the Beefeater Fashion competition for best design of a costume that reflects a fashion trend started by a jazz artist. Foggie, who graduated from Howard University, is a free-lance costume designer, a graphic artist and a former model. She now is eligible for the next round, the national finals of the competition. Foggie has submitted her entry, a design for a silk charmeuse evening gown with green beading on the bodice, for the finals. The judges will include Lois Alexander, founder and director of the Harlem Institute of Fashion and the Black Fashion Museum, and Audrey Smaltz, noted fashion consultant.