Deborah Turbeville, Back to Backgrounds

Most fashion photographers follow models to exotic locations miles and miles away from home. Arrangements are complicated. The clothes, as well as stylists for hair, makeup and fashion, are flown out along with a cadre of fashion editors and assistants.

On location, the photographer oohs and ahhs at the exotic scenery -- the all-purpose villa or ruin. The model is lined up in the camera's viewfinder and the photographer takes a tight shot. There's a hint of blue sky in the picture, an edge of ground. The ruin is a faint blur behind the model's shoulder.

Not so with the photographs of Deborah Turbeville. Without detracting from mood, scene, model or outfit, she takes it all in. In "A Personal Vision," a show of Turbeville's work at the Staley-Wise Gallery in New York's SoHo, the photographs come from French, Italian and American Vogue, as well as Vogue Sposa, an Italian bridal magazine. The models, wearing designs by Valentino and Ungaro, are set in dark, mysterious rooms with peeling plaster and dusty floors. Brides have been abandoned standing in a cloud of tulle. Sitting alone on benches or by windows, like Dickens' Miss Havisham, they wait quietly for the groom.

In a portrait, Diana Vreeland is talking. She wears glamorous, shimmering pajamas and several bracelets. Her pale hand is raised up against a dark wall; her mouth is poised to utter a word.

The pictures sell from $550 to $1,400 and are on view through July 11. The gallery is at 177 Prince St. in Manhattan. Fawn Hall's Testimonial Robes

Like many Washington women, Fawn Hall is undecided about her skirt length.

The knee-length checked skirt she wore for her first day of testimony was only a minor victory for the short skirt in Washington. Hall, who also wore a short pouf dress to the White House Correspondents' Association dinner in April, retrogressed on her second day of her testimony to a longer skirt -- about four inches below the knee.

Hall has brought some glamor to the Iran-contra hearings, though. Other than Elliott Abrams' green suit and tie, Rachel Abrams' purple dress and John Nields' beguilingly bad haircut, the fashion at the hearings has been mostly dark suits with variations on the red tie. In Southampton, Maintaining the Barest Standards

Fashion alert for those traveling to Southampton, Long Island. Cover up!

A 33-year-old village dress code will be enforced this year. Anyone wearing a bathing suit, unless it is covered up, will not be allowed in the downtown business district. Repeat violators are subject to fines up to $250 or as many as 15 days in jail.

It seems nearly naked day-trippers have been browsing around the shops in Southampton, gawking at the rich and famous. Interior designer Audrey Koehler, a year-round resident there, says she's delighted with the strict enforcement. "The people wandering the village are disgusting," Koehler says. "I went to Gristedes {market} a couple summers ago and the woman in line in front of me was wearing a string bikini -- nothing else. When the cashier said, 'That's $20,' the woman pulled it out of her panties."

Southampton Village Mayor William Hattrick has had little resistance to the dress codes. "It sounds a little high-handed, but if you've got something beautiful you have to fight to keep it," he says. "It's not a black-tie setup, but there are just minimum standards and we don't think it's too much to ask of people."

Road signs have been set up at the town entrances that say: "Welcome to Southampton. Please observe our beach, traffic and dress regulations." Village stores, which will have copies of the dress code available, will also display window signs saying, "We endorse the village dress codes. Please wear proper attire at all times."

Koehler hopes the new signs will bring a change. "It used to be a lovely, sweet little village; it's a zoo now." Taking a Shot at Hoop Couture

How do you design a basketball uniform?

"Most sportswear should really be called dormant wear," Alexander Julian said while narrating his own collection at the Men's Fashion Association last week. He should know the difference. Julian, who introduced rugby shirts and other athletic wear to his line 10 years ago, has been approached about designing the uniforms and warmups for the NBA expansion team in North Carolina, his home state. The dust is still settling around the new basketball team, which still does not have an official name.

"I want the team to look dynamic and stand out in a positive way," says Julian, who hopes to have a hand in the stadium colors as well. He can't say specifically which colors yet, but he adds, "People associate my work with certain colors -- blue-greens and teals, unusual accents."

The NBA design regulations are fairly flexible, according to Julian. "They just want to make sure {the uniform} is going to work -- be functional," he says.

Will he do high-tops too? "I haven't gotten down that far." Marla Buck: Mainly Manly Jewelry

"I like men," says jewelry designer Marla Buck. "And I like working with men."

Her first men's accessory line, of black matte and sterling desk accessories and jewelry, will be in the stores by August. It was Buck who provided the women's jewelry for the Bill Blass, Carolina Herrera and Adrienne Vittadini fall shows.

For her men's line she has designed money clips, cuff links, tie tacks, tie bars, button covers, pens, paperweights, letter openers, card cases and cigarette lighters -- all the usual masculine stuff, including her men's watches, that any number of women might want to own.

She says she doesn't know any men who wear rings, but she's designed them anyway -- in sterling and onyx. If a man wears a ring, she says, "it might as well be a nice one."

Buck, who has been in the women's costume jewelry business for six years, says that doing a men's line is a refreshing change. "Men are much more appreciative than women. They are always tickled and delighted to see something new that's available for a man, unlike the women who come in {to Buck's showroom} and say, 'Oh no, not another tray of earrings."

Washington Post fashion editor Nina Hyde is on assignment.