Dolce & Gabbana's Photos That Cover the Subject
You would hardly expect an ordinary presentation of photographs from Dolce & Gabbana, that innovative design team in Milan. Domenici Dolce and Stefano Gabbana are the ones whose clothes are remarkably mobile and adjustable because of elastic treatments, hooks and buttons. Like many other designers, the company has put out portfolios, one handsomely shot on the street by Ferdinando Scianna and another by Alfredo Albertoni with a more direct and close-up view of the clothes. For the moment they are just for those who have attended the collections.
And the photos come in Dolce and Gabbana's favorite fabric -- jersey. They have uniquely packaged the Scianna photos in a convertible envelope of black jersey that looks like it would make a great mini or tube top. But we can't figure out how to get into it.
Pity, Patou Passed Up the Paris Parade
Sadly missing from the Paris couture schedule last month was a collection from Jean Patou. Remember, Patou is the old and venerable Paris house that over the years has hired and nurtured many big league designers, including Marc Bohan, now artistic director of Christian Dior, and his assistant Gerard Pipart, now designer for Nina Ricci. Also Michel Goma, who will now design the Balenciaga ready-to-wear collection; Karl Lagerfeld, the designer for Chanel and his own house; Jean Paul Gaultier; and Angelo Tarlazzi. And, of course, Christian Lacroix, the current pet of Paris, who was at Patou for five years until he left abruptly after the last January couture showings.
Jean de Mouy, who succeeded his grandfather Raymond Barbas as president of the House of Jean Patou, would say little on the record about Lacroix's departure. "I want to do nothing to hurt him," he said.
De Mouy is looking for a new designer. And with Lacroix leaving so quickly and taking others with him, it was not possible to have a new collection this season. "I prefer not to present a show that is not perfect," said de Mouy. "Five years ago I said that I respect couture -- that couture is in fashion. Time has proved that to be true."
Vogue's Bare View Of Liz Taylor
Put in your order now for the October issue of Vogue magazine. It will contain nine extraordinary portraits of Elizabeth Taylor -- au naturelle, in a sense. No teased hair, no heavy makeup, no designer clothes. The photographs are the result of a 15-hour session with photographer Wayne Maser. Taylor, who wears her hair wet -- and sometimes tied up in a towel -- for the spread, also wears a T-shirt or a friend's jeans jacket.
"The series is like an analysis of a beauty," says Vogue Editor in Chief Grace Mirabella. Even Taylor was surprised and pleased with the results. (By the way -- Taylor will be at Woodies to introduce her fragrance, Elizabeth Taylor's Passion, on Sept. 23.)
Notes de la Mode
Who was that good-looking kid in some Georgetown restaurants recently wearing his tie around his waist in place of a belt, Oxbridge style? It was
David Lauren, until recently working on the Hill as a summer intern. He dresses pretty well for a 15-year-old. But then, he has a good teacher -- his father is Ralph Lauren.
Check the new column called NEXT in the August issue of Seventeen. Written by Susan Brady, NEXT is a four-page spread of fashion notes and finds. Brady is a Georgetown University graduate who was assisting the beauty editor at Seventeen until she was given her own column.
Ollie North is Marine to the fingertips. In court last week he used a camouflage print pencil.
Tourist Alert: The Beach Is Thataway
The tourists' get-ups in Washington are getting worse and worse. Even miniskirts would look conservative in comparison. Would you believe swim trunks and short shorts on grown -- and big -- men and women? Would the bare-chested men be less comfortable wearing a T-shirt, or the mature women be less comfortable in long shorts or a full skirt? We hardly think so. If they were, then we wouldn't have a case.
The beach is the place where people can walk around in whatever they please and as little as they want. While Washington is a vacation spot for some, it is a professional city for others, and that should be respected by visitors and natives.
So what's being worn at the beach? After several summers of mostly white clothes at St. Tropez in France, with occasional outfits in black, color is finally back in at this high-fashion hot spot. Citrus colors -- orange, lemon and lime -- are worn with bright red. No surprise, the skirts are the mini-est in years.
Sew, Just Wait Until September
Can you hold off till September to shorten your skirts -- or lengthen them? The Washington Post list of sewing classes, which will appear in the Style section the first Sunday in September, will include classes in alterations, as well as tailoring, pattern making, knitting and more. If you offer sewing classes to the public, kindly send information about such classes, including times, fees and skills required to Martha Dailey, Fashion Department, The Washington Post, 1150 15th St. NW, Washington, D.C. 20071.
The Bolshoi Boogies With Esprit
The Bolshoi Ballet dancers don't just dance fancy, they rock 'n' roll too.
When the Soviet troupe arrived in San Francisco this past Monday, Esprit de Corp (the clothing company that will be opening a shop in Georgetown later this month) threw the young dancers a barbecue party. The outlet store next door was kept open late so the dancers, who came with empty suitcases, could buy up Esprit clothes to take home. They chose brightly colored bike packs, windbreakers, trenches and anything that looked especially trendy, according to an Esprit spokesperson.
"They arrived at the party very dour, very Russian," said Esprit's Kristin Joyce, the hostess of the evening. "But then we brought out the food -- hamburgers and make-your-own sundaes -- and they really livened up." After dinner the Esprit employes rocked out with the dancers, including Irek Mukhamedov, who is touted as the new Baryshnikov, prima ballerina Nina Ananiashvili and Andris Liepa.
Only rock 'n' roll from before 1980 was played at the party -- a special request made by the dancers. With one exception: "From Russia With Love" from Frank Sinatra's "Greatest Hits" album. "They loved the song so much," said Joyce, "they called the next day and wanted their own recording." Martha Sherrill Dailey