South African President Frederik W. de Klerk didn't spend all of Sunday, his first day in Washington, in private meetings with his staff; he found time to visit the National Gallery of Art. His afternoon visit to the gallery was of concern to gallery officials, fearing that he would be a target for anti-apartheid protests. But de Klerk is a most average-looking man who, if it hadn't been for his entourage and security guards, probably would have gone unnoticed. Roger Mandle, the deputy director of the gallery, conducted the VIP tour for him through the " Sculpture of Indonesia," "George Caleb Bingham" and "Kazimir Malevich -- 1878-1935" exhibitions.

Some nervousness at the National Gallery may have been related to the fact that it is hosting a special reception and black-tie dinner tribute tomorrow night in honor of the founding and retiring members of the Congressional Black Caucus on the 20th anniversary of the organization. Yesterday the CBC canceled a scheduled meeting with de Klerk, fearing it could be misinterpreted, and the caucus chairman, Rep. Ron Dellums, joined a group outside the White House protesting de Klerk's meeting with President Bush. Among the guests expected at tomorrow's gallery dinner are Democratic National Committee Chairman Ron Brown, D.C. mayoral candidate Sharon Pratt Dixon, NAACP Executive Director Benjamin Hooks, singer Melba Moore and CBC founding member Andrew Young.

Out and About Washingtonian columnist Rudy Maxa is reporting in the current issue of the magazine that a former boyfriend of Marlene Ramallo Chalmers, the new wife of Redskins owner Jack Kent Cooke, is offering to sell nude photographs of her taken several years ago. Cooke would not comment on the item, which comes out in the magazine today, but around town Cooke watchers say he's so much in love with Chalmers that they've never seen him so happy.

All this could be more fuel for Cooke's battle with the Washingtonian. He has a $30 million suit against the magazine for a story written by his chauffeur and published last year. And his lawyer in the suit, who was seen Sunday in the pregame party in the Vince Lombardi Suite at RFK, is none other than Mayor Marion Barry's superlawyer, Ken Mundy. The faces in Cooke's owner's box were the usual cast of characters, including Sen. Chris Dodd, playwright Larry L. King, John Hechinger, Judge Stanley Sporkin, former senator Gene McCarthy and CBS correspondent Lesley Stahl ...

It was lunch with President Bush last week, and on Sunday another day out for the significantly healthier Lee Atwater. The Republican National Committee chairman and his wife, Sally, and their children stopped at the picturesque Old Angler's Inn for brunch. Atwater, who reportedly is having a surprising recovery after his family, friends and physicians feared he was losing his battle with a brain tumor, told Old Angler's owner Andre Condon it was his first public outing since the tumor was discovered in March. Atwater said they had passed the inn on several motor trips out to Great Falls and this time decided to stop. Atwater gave Condon a pair of presidential cuff links and ordered grilled chicken because he said he was on a diet. That didn't stop him, however, from trying the buffalo carpaccio, a raw-meat concoction ...

With all the worries Iraqi President Saddam Hussein must have about the possibility of an attack, he has the additional one of not having his bullet-proof limousine. According to the U.S. Customs Service, a special limousine able to withstand military rifle blasts and equipped with bullet-proof tires and tear-gas dispensers is being held at a repair shop in a Detroit suburb. The Cadillac, purchased by Iraq in 1988, was returned to the United States for routine maintenance in June. "We have reason to believe that this car might have been used by Iraqi President Saddam Hussein," said Donald Watson, Customs' assistant commissioner of enforcement in Chicago. "In any case, he's not going to get it back." ...