Dining Capsules

Restaurants previously reviewed by Eve Zibart.

CAFE PROMENADE (1127 Connecticut Ave. NW in the Mayflower Hotel; 202-347-2233. Metro: Farragut North, Farragut West or Dupont Circle) -- Looking for the in-laws' or out-of-towners' summer special? Look no further. While longtime chef "Tino" Buggio can soothe a nostalgic weeknight palate with such continental classics as Muscovy duck and Guinea hen with Savoy cabbage (and lure a smaller appetite with lamb chop lollipops and foie gras), the Friday night seafood buffet is a magnet for protein addicts: clams, oysters, shrimp, antipasto and green salads, grilled, baked and sauteed fish, crab cakes, tenderloin of beef and a surprisingly good gargantuan paella for $39. And low-cal/low-carb, if you avert your eyes from the desserts. Entrees $15.95-$25; Friday buffet $39 adults, $19.50 11 and under.

THAI CORNER (4733 Bethesda Ave., Bethesda; 301-654-0262. Metro: Bethesda) -- This is a Thai restaurant for those who prefer their Thai not too trendy and less than incendiary, but it's a handsome spot, both inside and out (it has a small, below-sidewalk-level patio), and eager to please. Best bets include yum tuna, a carryover from the old Thai Place up the street; soft-shell crabs; whole fish; mousse-like "crab cakes"; and the inadvertently ticklish "peppery shrimp" with sweet-and-sour pickles. If you do like chilies, fight for your right, but beware the cooking oil; it stains. Entrees $7.95-$12.95. Not wheelchair accessible.

AMBROSIA GRILLE (802 Hungerford Dr., Rockville; 301-251-5816. Metro: Rockville) -- You can take the grille out of the country, but you can't take the country out of the grille . . . well, you get the idea. It may have relocated, but this longtime old-Rockville favorite still hands off filling and unfussy Greek and Italian family fare at prices tonier spots can't match. Try the spanakotiropita (cheese and spinach cigars), eggplant melitzanosalata, dolmades (beef-and-rice-stuffed grape leaves), the unusually light moussaka and the conventionally well-done but tasty beef and lamb gyros; or the meatless lasagna with spinach and linguini with clam sauce. Entrees $6.15-$12.95.

OVATIONS (1551 Trap Rd. at the Filene Center, Wolf Trap; 703-255-4017) -- Under new management by the group that owns Georgia Brown's, Old Glory, Paolo's, Fin, etc., this pretty and convenient pavilion buffet is a better bet than ever, especially when it comes to the main dishes: cayenne/espresso- marinated flank steak, pepper-crusted ahi tuna with sun-dried tomato vinaigrette (a nice twist) and crisp fried chicken. Pastas could be a little bolder (except for the garlic) and the breads more interesting, but the cream of portobello soup, the sliced tomato/mozzarella/pesto salad and the edamame succotash are very good. The a la carte options aren't bad, but at the price the buffet's better. All-you-can-eat $24.95, ages 9 and under $9.95; a la carte $16.95-$28.95.

SIGNATURES (801 Pennsylvania Ave. NW; 202-628-5900. Metro: Archives/Navy Memorial or Gallery Place/Chinatown) -- It's only one of Signatures' two creative menus, but the modern-sushi list is full of reverse-fusion palate-pleasers: A deconstructed tuna roll of jicama with tuna tartare and wasabi "gelee"; sunomono (assorted fresh sashimi) in filtered "gazpacho water"; avocado and jicama rolled in crushed sesame, hazelnuts and pulverized corn; Kobe beef maki with beet oil and chive soy; and a clear improvement over the common "Philly roll" that combines smoked salmon mousse, asparagus, cream cheese and bagel crumbs wrapped in smoked salmon. Sushi $7-$16.

KAZ SUSHI BISTRO (1915 I St. NW; 202-530-5500. Metro: Farragut West or Foggy Bottom) -- Kaz Okochi's "original small dishes" (or sometimes, "free-style Japanese" fare) were among the very first in this area, and they're still among the best, especially the plum wine-infused duck foie gras nigiri with plum wine jelly, sea trout sashimi "napoleon" and tuna with black truffles. If you like the "deconstructed" new-Catalan dishes that Ferran Adria has made famous, order the sweet shrimp with ajo de blanca (ground almond sauce). Sushi and small dishes $3.75-$16.