"I THINK communication among people is one of the most important things," says Kamal "Commy" Jahanbein, owner of the Saloon (1207 U St. NW; 202-462-2640), and his comfortable bar is set up to facilitate interaction between everyone who walks in the door. At this basement-level watering hole, there's no television to turn patrons into staring, slack-jawed zombies. Longtime bartender Robert Valette pulls drinkers into casual conversation at the J-shaped bar while he pours half-liters of German lager. Music (mostly jazz or classical) is low enough to be pleasant background noise. Around the brick-walled room, lengthy tables become communal hangouts on weekends. One of the house rules: It's "against the law" to refuse to share any open seats.

"If you don't want to socialize or talk to anybody, you have no business here," Jahanbein says matter-of-factly. "If you're willing to trade your ideas on beer or politics with a stranger -- maybe 'stranger' sounds like a bad word -- then that's good. But if you don't . . . this is not the place for you."

Jahanbein is unapologetic about the emphasis he places on getting his customers to talk -- "We are not determined to please everybody," he says -- but it's startlingly effective. While sipping beers at the basement-level bar in recent months, I've discussed the pre-war orchestras of Count Basie and Duke Ellington with a programming executive from Clear Channel; been soundly beaten at chess by men old enough to be my father; and, last week, talked one-hit wonders with a production assistant from "American Idol."

But if you want to come in with a group of convivial friends, that's fine, too. "We like to be a pub, not a bar," Jahanbein explains. In America, he says, "if you say you're going to a bar, people think you're [just] going to drink. The definition of a pub in Europe is where neighbors get together. . . . This is more for buddies and friends to have a beer" while chatting or playing backgammon or Scrabble.

Jahanbein is always around, his wavy, salt-and-pepper hair making him easy to spot as he works the room delivering greetings and plates of food from the kitchen.

From 1977 to 1994, Jahanbein was one of the owners of another bar called the Saloon, a Georgetown landmark that started with a shared love of jazz and foreign beers. (That bar is now under different ownership and called the Saloun.) Eventually, though, Jahanbein's hands-on management style began to take its toll. "I was [at the Saloon] seven days a week, 100 hours a week. It was time to change, and dealing with students and tourists was too much." He took off for Europe, where he spent two years traveling through Austria, Germany, Sweden and Norway, exploring "business opportunities" and learning about beer by visiting breweries, sampling local brands and talking to experts.

On his return, Jahanbein and partners decided to open a new Saloon on U Street, just down the block from institutions like the Lincoln Theatre and Ben's Chili Bowl -- and years before the Ellington Apartments and trendy furniture stores began their march on the area.

They spent years renovating the modest building by hand. "We came here to be a small neighborhood place," Jahanbein explains. "We didn't expect all these changes around us. But I don't worry about it. I'm happy with what I've got here. We cannot pretend to be something we are not."

The Saloon looks like a classic tavern, with lots of hardwood accents and Tiffany-style lamps. Sepia-toned portraits, vintage beer advertisements and photos of jazz greats cover the walls. The kitchen turns out crowd pleasers such as burgers with bacon and blue cheese, cheese steak subs heavy with provolone and onions, and, on Tuesdays, 10-ounce New York sirloin steak dinners for $10.

What sets the Saloon apart, though, is Jahanbein's insistence on stocking "top-shelf" beers. He boasts that he doesn't carry light beers or "beers you see on TV," which means no Budweiser or Heineken (although he'll apparently make an exception for Guinness).

Instead, the focus is on products like Urbock 23, an extremely rare Austrian beer sold in tiny wine glasses with a strict limit of one per customer. Urbock packs quite a punch -- it's 9.6 percent alcohol -- but Jahanbein says the restriction is simply because of supply. "We get a limited quantity every three months, and we want everyone to try it. It's a sipping beer," with a smooth, dry taste reminiscent of apple cider. German lagers and Belgian ales dominate the rest of the menu. There are nine drafts and at least 20 bottled beers at any given time; current favorites include the summery Erdinger Weissbier and the rich Abbaye des Rocs Burgundy.

The beers have an international flavor, and so does Jahanbein's ongoing commitment to "good causes and making the world a better place." Scattered around the room are plaques and framed commendation letters from Habitat for Humanity, the organization that builds houses for low-income families around the globe.

A trio of letters near a window booth congratulate Jahanbein on his fundraising prowess over the last two years -- more than $58,000 earmarked for houses in Egypt, more than $50,000 for another project in Nigeria, almost $9,000 for yet another in Cameroon. But, Jahanbein says, involvement doesn't stop when a check is written. He flies around the world to meet with Habitat's local affiliates and the people who will live in the houses, and to see the area for himself.

"I've built 50 homes in Danang, in Vietnam. I just came back from Egypt, building 30 homes there. I'm in the process of building 30 houses in Nigeria and Cameroon. Habitat is very important to me." And when he goes to Africa in December to finalize arrangements for the construction of two high schools, the Saloon will simply close for two weeks.

In a rear hallway, near the bathrooms, is a framed display of before-and-after photographs showing families who have moved from tiny, rundown shacks to modest houses with help from Habitat, Jahanbein and the Saloon. Over one rear booth, the brick walls are covered with the names of patrons who donated money to help build those houses in Danang.

Elsewhere in the bar, you'll see a number of other names in gold paint. They honor folks from the neighborhood who became regular customers -- although plaques on the bar also pay tribute to the owners of Austria's Eggenberg Brewery, the makers of Urbock 23.

Jahanbein prides himself on being quirky. He laughs: "I might be the only bar to stay in business without a TV, and Bud Light and Miller Lite and Courvoisier." Instead, he relies on one of the oldest forms of entertainment: human interaction.

ANTE UP

Who would have predicted that poker would become a televised spectator sport?

Whether you blame the Travel Channel's World Poker Tour, which features celebrities such as Ben Affleck and Jack Black playing Texas Hold 'Em, or ESPN's coverage of the World Series of Poker, won by the exquisitely monikered Chris Moneymaker, poker is no longer the sole domain of guys with cigars and beer playing around a kitchen table, or hard-core casino fans wearing sunglasses and ballcaps indoors.

With this resurgence has come more chances for barroom poker players. Groups ranging from the Leukemia & Lymphoma Society to the American University women's ice hockey team have held charity Hold 'Em tournaments at local saloons. And now Chinatown's Fado Irish Pub (808 Seventh St. NW; 202-789-0066) is hosting Wednesday night games of Texas Hold 'Em for the next three months, then bringing back each week's top three competitors for a local "tournament of champions."

"We're cashing in on the popularity of poker," says Fado managing partner Greg Algie. Other branches of the Fado chain have experimented with tournaments -- "The guy in Austin is a big poker fan," Algie explains -- and their success led Algie to host one here. But first, he says, "I called everyone under the sun -- I called the lottery [board], the ABC, the police and told 'em what we're doing. And they all said, 'Are you playing for money?' I said no. They said, 'Okay.' " And that was that.

The first week found 24 players gathered around four dining tables in the rear of the bar, and then word began to spread. 'We have guys calling all week, saying, 'I heard you have a poker tournament,' " Algie says. Last week, I arrived at 7:45 -- 15 minutes after sign-up usually begins, and 45 before the first hand is dealt -- but still had to get on a waiting list in order to claim a spot at a table. This was after Fado had already added two more tables (12 more players) to make room for more players.

There's no fee to enter and claim a baggie full of $400 worth of chips, although the organizers are deadly serious about not allowing money at the tables. If they see cash -- even to pay a waitress -- you're out. Period.

The last three players win prizes like gift certificates, and are invited back for the big playoff later this year. "If it goes well, we might organize a big tournament for charity," Algie says. "And if this gets really big, we'll try to move it to Sunday night. We'll try to get as many players as we can [involved], but obviously we can't get everyone."

You won't find TVs and Budweiser at the Saloon on U Street, but with luck you'll strike up a conversation and drink "top-shelf" beers with patrons such as Filip Liharik, from left, Sam Test and Stephen Wagstaff.