GETTING THERE: Richmond is 100 miles south of Washington on I-95; continue 14 miles farther south to reach Petersburg. Lynchburg is about 100 miles west of Richmond.

THE CEMETERIES: All three cemeteries are active and open daily, dawn to dusk. Hollywood Cemetery, 412 S.Cherry St., 804-648-8501, Richmond, Tours conducted 10 a.m. Monday-Saturday, April-October, by Historic Richmond Tours, a service of the Valentine Richmond History Center, $7. Self-guided walking/driving tour maps available for a small fee. Old City Cemetery (401 Taylor St., Lynchburg, 434-847-1465, has a dozen free guides and brochures -- on roses, black history, kids' interests, etc. Guides, frequently in period costume, available for a fee. The Cemetery Center has related books and greeting cards of the graveyard in different seasons. Blandford Church and Cemetery, 111 Rochelle Lane off Crater Road, Petersburg, 804-733-2396,; 30-minute tours of the church given 10-4 daily, $5.

WHERE TO STAY: Linden Row (100 E. Franklin St., Richmond, 800-348-7424, is a 70-room hotel fashioned from restored carriage and row houses in the historic district. Continental breakfast included; doubles $110-$130. Norvell-Otey House (1020 Federal St., Lynchburg, 877-320-1020, is a restored early-1800s Federal house with four rooms, full breakfast, with doubles for $135.

WHERE TO EAT: In Richmond, the White Dog (2329 W. Main St.) is a cozy pub in the Fan District serving American regional food in the $16 to $25 range, with seafood specials. Main Street Eatery (907 Main St., Lynchburg) offer continental cuisine, with entrees $12 to $23. The Texas Inn (422 Main St., Lynchburg) is open 24 hours, closed Sunday; a hotdog with secret sauce relish, chili and onions costs a buck.

INFO: Virginia Tourism Corp., 800-847-4882,