Steak still tops the special-dinner list, and when you care enough to share the very best, these top chophouses carve, and charge, for two ("two" being their estimate, not the nutritionists'). But even that's just for bench warmers: The folks at Don Shula's steakhouses consider their double-size portions just for one. Guess that's what comes of raising teams of offensive linemen:

BOBBY VAN'S STEAKHOUSE -- 809 15th St. NW; 202-589-0060. Porterhouse for two, 38 ounces; $78.

CHARLIE PALMER STEAK -- 101 Constitution Ave. NW; 202-547-8100. (Metro: Union Station or Judiciary Square) -- Porterhouse for two, 42 ounces; $79.

FLEMING'S STEAKHOUSE & WINE BAR -- 1960A Chain Bridge Rd., Tysons Corner; 703-442-8384. Porterhouse for two, 40 to 42 ounces; $70.

MORTON'S OF CHICAGO -- Various locations. Porterhouse for two, 48 ounces; $84.

OLD HOMESTEAD -- 7501 Wisconsin Ave. (in the Chevy Chase Building), Bethesda; 301-654-2006. Porterhouse for two, 48 ounces; $75.

THE PALM -- 1225 19th St. NW; 202-293-9091. 1750 Tysons Blvd.(Route 123), Tysons Corner; 703-917-0200. New York strip for two, 36 ounces; $73.

RUTH'S CHRIS STEAK HOUSE -- Locations downtown, Dupont Circle, Bethesda and Crystal City. Porterhouse for two, 40 ounces; $76.

SHULA'S STEAK HOUSE -- 1143 New Hampshire Ave. NW (in the Wyndham City Center); 202-828-7762. 8028 Leesburg Pike, Tysons Corner; 703-506-3256. Porterhouse for one, 48 ounces; $80.

-- Eve Zibart

A generous portion: the 48-ounce porterhouse at Shula's Steak House.