The origin of the fried oyster po' boy is in mild dispute as far as the first restaurant or stand to make it and just who those particular "poor boys" were, but no one denies that its real home is New Orleans. Nevertheless, you don't have to jump the jet to get a fix; Washington is full of Louisiana-style restaurants. Some versions are more upscale than others, of course, being made of grilled baguettes or toasted French rolls, with remoulade or chipotle mayonnaise, topped with lettuce and tomato or watercress. Alexandria's Union Street Public House even tries to wriggle out of its Southern responsibilities with a "carpetbaggers' po' boy" with steak and oysters -- but we won't talk about that:

ADDIE'S -- 11120 Rockville Pike, Rockville; 301-881-0081. Po' boy with shoestring fries and coleslaw, $10.95.

BARDIA'S NEW ORLEANS CAFE -- 2412 18th St. NW; 202-234-0420. Po' boy with fries, $8.75.

BLACK'S BAR & KITCHEN -- 7750 Woodmont Ave., Bethesda; 301-652-6278. Po' boy with beer-battered onion rings, $10.

CAFE MARIANNA -- 1201 N. Royal St., Alexandria; 703-519-3776. Po' boy on grilled baguette with french fries and slaw, $9.

HANK'S OYSTER BAR -- 1624 Q St. NW; 202-462-4265. Po' boy with slaw, $13.

JOHNNY'S HALF SHELL -- 2002 P St. NW; 202-296-2021. Full po' boy with chips, $15; half, $8.50.

LEGAL SEA FOODS -- Locations in Tysons Corner, Crystal City and Bethesda. Po' boy with two sides, $11.95.

LOUISIANA EXPRESS -- 4921 Bethesda Ave., Bethesda; 301-652-6945. Po' boy, $8.95.

NEW ORLEANS BISTRO -- 4907 Cordell Ave., Bethesda; 301-986-8833. Po' boy with Cajun fries, $8.95.

OKRA'S LOUISIANA BISTRO -- 9110 Center St., Manassas; 703-330-2729. Po' boy with Cajun fries, $10.

SOUTHSIDE 815 -- 815 S. Washington St., Alexandria; 703-836-6222. Po' boy with fries and slaw, $8.95.

-- Eve Zibart

An oyster po'boy from Hank's Oyster Bar.