Having two professional restaurant kitchens -- Jean-Louis and the Watergate Terrace -- at your disposal is about as much as a carryout caterer could wish. And so the Watergate Chef has Jean-Louis' whipped anchovy butter ($5 for a small crock) and occasional culinary coups such as airy salmon terrine with a heart of spinach and (in season) shad roe. It has Chef Klaus' pates, including a fine one studded with ham and pistachios in a good short crust. The word is that the kitchen staffs compose their favorite salads for this shop, and we can believe it, for the chicken salad with dill is made with affection and all breast meat, the vegetable salad with bright and crisp raw vegetables, plenty of herbs and attentive seasoning. Success varies -- mushy turkey and too much salt in the curried salad, dull pesto with gritty dried basil on the linguine and oddly perfumed seafood salad were the major disappointments. But inventions such as smoked oyster whip, extravaganzas such as coulibiac of salmon and wonderfully rare beef Wellington (both unfortunately doughy but otherwise delicious) and the fresh simplicity of a peppered and pimentoed potato salad are worth the few risks. The counters of the Watergate Chef offer sandwiches (from corned beef to curried turkey with fresh pineapple on pita), ice cream sundaes, a sophisticated array of cold cuts with special emphasis on German, cheeses in good condition, fresh pastas, breads from The French Bread Factory, pastries from the Watergate bakery across the courtyard, even Petroussian's legendary caviar. Grocery shelves are stocked with Silver Palate gems, all the fashionable nut oils (even almond) and vinegars, coffees, teas and condiments. The staff are kindly, the checkout counter is decorated with fresh flowers, and the high-tech white tile and stainless steel furnishings make shopping a refreshing project. Open 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. Mon. through Sat.; Noon to 5 p.m. Sun. Expensive.