A NEW Yorker never forgets. Just ask one, no matter how long ago the migration to Washington. Here are the hungry cries of Washington's immigrants from Manhattan:

"There are no bakeries here. There aren't even bad bakeries. I'm talking about a real bakery, with crumb buns and cherry coffee cake. You walk into a bakery down here and ask for a crumb bun and they don't know what the hell you're talking about." --George Michaels, WRC sportscaster

"I miss the ethnic cooking. In New York even the street vendors sell all kinds of exotic food: They'll sell you grape leaves and kielbasa. In Washington they've got hot dogs." --Ann Berk, station manager WRC

"Every time I go back home I stop at an Italian delicatessen and load up on meats and bread. People on the shuttle look at me like I'm a gypsy or something, but if we're hijacked I figure I'm ready." --Gay Pirozzi, appointments secretary for Sen. Moynihan

"When I want to go to the "21" I go to the Jockey Club. When I want to go to Toots Shor's (which no longer exists) I go to Mel Krupin's." --William Safire, New York Times

"I've learned to exercise mind control; I can last about four days, then I hop on the shuttle and head for the homemade bread and fresh ricotta in the Italian district -- none of that prepackaged stuff they have here." --Rep. Geraldine Ferraro, 9th district, Forest Hills

"I think Washington does well. It has deli food -- you can't get it at 4 in the morning, but then I'm not up at 4 in the morning, so it's not a problem for me." --Clifford Alexander, of Alexander and Associates management consulting firm

"I miss stumbling out of work, or out of bed on a Sunday morning, and being able to hit two or three places on your way down the block for a paper . . . When I first moved down here I lived on Columbia Road, and that was a little better, but it's still not New York." --George Dalley, member of the Civil Aeronautics Board

"It's not that Washington doesn't have everything New York has, it's just a matter of training yourself to get in the car and look for it. The bakeries and delis aren't on every block; you have to find them." --Ellen Kingsley, consumer reporter WDVM-TV

"Like everything else in Washington, it's not New York." --Leon Winter, Washington Post

And then there are the immigrants from Washington to New York, who are faced with new problems such as:

"Jersey tomatoes getting in bizarre sale rivalries of 5 to 7 pounds per dollar. You can start to feel guilty for not only not cooking, but not cooking passionately . . . On the subject of chocolate . . . suffice it to say that on that account life is worth living here ." --Thom Feild, designer

Finally, there are those who never have been New Yorkers, but are the watchers, the commentators, the ethnographers:

"And so indeed we remain today, two nations, New York and the rest of the country . . . There may be better cities for food -- Paris currently, Saigon before socialism -- but none in North America. This comes in part out of the sheer demandingness of New Yorkers, but in part, too, out of their insistence in treating the dreariest luncheonette as if it were their mothers' altogether hospitable kitchens. I have never heard people order food as I have in New York. 'Sam, fix me a sardine on rye, with a very thin slice of onion, and a light rinse of lemon, pickle on the side.' " --Aristides, in "You Take Manhattan," The American Scholar, Autumn 1980