YOU WON'T need to bother with the Concorde any more, if two star Parisian chef Ge'rard Pangaud is any judge of trends. Some of Paris' top restaurants will only be an Eastern Shuttle ride away. Pangaud was in New York recently -- with a quick side-trip to Washington -- looking for a site for a new restaurant, which would, he said, make him the first two-or-more-star French restaurant owner-chef to open his own restaurant in the United States. Others have sent their names to attach to restaurants they occasionally visit; and Washington's Jean-Louis Palladin (whom Pangaud was visiting here) was chef, though not owner, of a two-star restaurant in southwest France. But now the race is on: Pangaud, who at 29 is young for his stars, reported that he encountered a couple of other top-rated Parisian restaurateurs looking for New York sites. In the next five years, 10 to 12 Parisian chefs will open in New York, predicted Pangaud. "It is a problem of money now," he explained. Frenchmen don't have as much money to spend on restaurants as they once did, so they eat in expensive restaurants only half as often as they used to. His restaurant in Paris is half-full of Americans, which has encouraged him to contemplate going right to the source. Why not Washington? "It is an administration town with maybe three or four good restaurants. Maybe it's enough," he answered. As for the problems of finding backup chefs, waiters and a sommelier in the States, Pangaud hopes to bring them along from Paris. What he knows he can find here are excellent ingredients and an audience that still accepts the idea of progress in cooking; in France, said Pangaud, it is a time of "stabilization rather than progress of the cooking." Before dashing off to investigate the competition in Washington, he quickly sketched on a note pad a couple of plates to show what he means by progress -- grilled salmon on parsley mousse in a parsley butter sauce, vegetables and salmon brushed with aspic on a pool of green chive sauce, presented on a black plate.