If sweets are for the sweet, it follows that super bowls are for Superbowls.

Superbowl Sunday there will be super bowl parties with lots of friends cheering for the appropriate team. Create the proper ambience by serving the proper meal, out of bowls, of course.

For San Francisco supporters, the meal is none other than cioppino. It's the definitive Bay City dish, full of indigenous seafood and reminiscent of bouillabaise.

While some San Francisco seafood is scarce, Superbowl watchers in this area can create a suitable soup with what is available. In San Francisco, 49er fans would serve cioppino with sourdough bread. If that proves difficult, substitute crusty french bread.

Bengal fans can create a mood with a dish whose origins trace to the famous chili parlors of Cincinnati. It gets its flavor as much from Greece -- allspice and cinnamon -- as it does from Texas' chili powder, cumin and cayenne. It's a different kind of chili, not one that Tex-Mex fans will rave about, unless they are alerted and maybe if you call it something different.

In Cincinnati's chili parlors, the dish can be ordered several ways, which are designated by numerals. Cooks can duplicate all five ways at home.

For instance, one-way chili is just plain chili. Two-way chili is served over pasta. Most people get it three-way in Cincinnati, with chili, spaghetti and lots of grated cheddar cheese on the top. Finely chopped raw onion tops the mixture to make four-way chili, and kidney beans top onion to make five-way.

Cincinnati chili-parlors serve the chili with a bowl of oyster crackers.

Dallas Cowboy fans? Let them eat crow.

CINCINNATI CHILI (6 servings) 2 pounds ground beef 6 bay leaves 1 large onion, chopped 6 medium cloves garlic, minced 1 teaspoon cinnamon 2 teaspoons allspice 4 teaspoons vinegar 1 teaspoon crushed red pepper 1 teaspoon salt 2 tablespoons chili powder 1 teaspoon ground cumin 1/2 teaspoon oregano 6-ounce can tomato paste 4 cups water 1/2 pound vermicelli, cooked according to package directions 4 ounces cheddar cheese, grated 1 small onion, finely chopped 16-ounce can kidney beans, drained

Brown the beef in a large dutch oven, breaking up meat into very fine pieces. Drain. Add bay leaves, onion, garlic, cinnamon, allspice, vinegar, red pepper, salt, chili powder, cumin, oregano, tomato paste and water. Bring mixture to a boil, then lower heat and simmer 1 1/2 to 2 hours, uncovered.

Toppings: Vermicelli (2-way), cheddar cheese (3-way), onion (4-way), kidney beans (5-way).

CIOPPINO (6 servings) 1 quart clams 1 cup dry white or red wine 1/2 cup olive oil 1 large onion, chopped 2 cloves garlic, chopped 1 green pepper, chopped 1/4 pound dried mushrooms, soaked in water and drained 4 ripe tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped (substitute 16-ounce can, drained) 4 tablespoons Italian tomato paste 2 cups red wine, such as pinot noir or zinfandel 2 teaspoons salt 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh basil or 1 teaspoon dried basil 1 sea bass or striped bass, about 3 pounds, cut into serving pieces, or 3 pounds thick fish fillets, cut into serving pieces 1 pound crabmeat 1 pound raw shrimp, shelled 3 tablespoons chopped parsley

Steam the clams in the 1 cup white or red wine until they open--discard any that do not open. Strain the broth through two thicknesses of cheesecloth and reserve.

Heat the olive oil in a deep 8-quart pot and cook the onion, garlic, pepper and mushrooms for 3 minutes. Add the tomatoes and cook 4 minutes. Add the strained clam broth, tomato paste and 2 cups red wine. Season with salt and pepper and simmer for about 20 minutes. Taste and correct seasoning. Add the basil and the fish, and simmer until the fish is just cooked through, about 3 to 5 minutes. Finally add the steamed clams, crabmeat and shrimp. Heat just until shrimp are cooked. Do not overcook. Sprinkle with parsley and serve. From "The New James Beard"