AMERICANS ARE culinary pirates. We turn pizza American; we adopt the taco as a national dish; we even export--to France--the french fry.

Ah, but we are generous pirates. We share our recipes in community cookbooks and have built the world's richest cookbook literature, one that preserves for the future the range from grand cuisine to home cooking. Junior League cookbooks, church cookbooks, school cookbooks will provide unending research for culinary historians yet unborn.

One that they should not miss is the new 43-page booklet from D.C.'s Oyster Bilingual School; it has two titles--"International Recipes" and "Recetas Internacionales"--and two versions of every recipe--English and Spanish. But its originality does not stop there. Here is a cookbook that shows the astonishing diversity of the American population.

Traditional Latin American dishes like chiles rellenos join eggplant lasagna and Afghan noodle soup. And take for example this dish, Curried Chicken with Yogurt, which combines ingredients from Asia (soy sauce, yogurt and curry powder) with American marketing--chicken breasts available as parts rather than only with the whole chicken--to create an Indonesian dish by a cook with a Western name--Paula Hazzard. Add to that the Spanish translation, not to mention the possibility of making it after a quick trip through the express lane of the supermarket (with the addition of salt and pepper from your shelves at home), and it becomes an American melting pot dish.

If you want to have this cookbook as well on your shelves, you can do so by sending $6 (profits will help purchase bilingual books and educational materials for the school) to Oyster School Cookbook, 1837 Mintwood Place NW, Washington, D.C. 20009.

EXPRESS LANE LIST: yogurt, eggs, lime, soy sauce, curry powder, ground coriander, chicken breasts, apple. CURRIED CHICKEN WITH YOGURT (4 servings) 1 cup plain yogurt 1 egg, beaten 1 tablespoon lime juice 1 tablespoon soy sauce 1 teaspoon curry powder 3/4 teaspoon ground coriander 1/4 teaspoon salt 1/8 teaspoon pepper 2 whole breasts of chicken (about 2 pounds) split, boned and skinned 1 tart cooking apple, cored, peeled and sliced thin

Beat together yogurt, egg, lime juice, soy sauce, curry powder, coriander, salt and pepper; set aside. Place chicken in shallow baking dish and top each piece with several apple slices. Pour yogurt mixture over chicken. Bake uncovered in 350-degree oven for 40 to 45 minutes or until chicken is tender. POLLO DE "CURRY" Y YOGURT (4 personas) 1 taza de yogurt 1 huevo batido 1 cucharada de jugo de lima 1 cucharada de salsa de soya 3/4 cucharadita de polvo de "curry" 3/4 cucharadita de cilantro molido 1/4 cucharadita de sal 1/8 cucharadita de pimienta 2 enteros pechos sin huesos dividos de pollo (ma's o menos 2 libras) 1 manzana pelada sin corazo'n y tajada

Se bate el yogurt, huevo, jugo de lima, salsa de soya, polvo de "curry", cilantro, sal y pimienta; ponga a un lado. Po'ngase el pollo en una tartera honda y encima de cada pedazo de pollo ponga unas tajadas de manzana; despue's se echa el yogurt encima del pollo. Se coloca en un horno de 350 grados por 40--45 minutos, sin tapa, hasta que el pollo este' tierno.