You can keep your Whopper and your Wendy's, your Big Mac and your double chili cheese. You can have all those rank imitations, because we've found the real hamburger.

The genuine, 200-proof, registered and certified hamburger (made only with pure Montana beef, of course) is found nestled in a big forest of steak fries on a heavy ceramic plate atop the long bar at The Rialto, the finest cafe on Last Chance Gulch, the historic street in Helena where a ragged group of miners decided to try one last dig and thus launched the Montana gold rush.

This large, juicy, slightly-charred hunk of meat -- definitely not a quiche-eater's repast -- is best enjoyed with a not-too-cold glass of Henry Weinhard's Special Reserve dark beer, which The Rialto recommends not only because it's a great beer but also because The Rialto is the only place in Montana that serves this legendary Oregon brew.

Since the Rialto hamburger is too huge to down in one sitting, you can pass the time in the bar's game room, which features pool, a long, polished shuffleboard table, and even a few video games, which diminish the atmosphere somewhat but are evidently needed to attract customers. After all, until they hit The Rialto, a lot of people think that fast-food joints sell real hamburgers.