There is a special place in the repertoire of every cook for quick and tasty ways to use up leftovers -- especially the long-enduring leftovers from the holiday turkey. The breast meat is easy to use up in hot turkey sandwiches, turkey a la king and perhaps turkey tetrazzini.
Most cooks run out of patience, however, and toss what's left into the soup pot. Those drumsticks, thighs and wings have had slices of meat carved from them, and then always seem to hang around until the very end.
But a final hurrah for the bird can take its inspiration from the frugal kitchens of sturdy English folk. In centuries past, on days following feasts, West Country cooks seeking to feed their families on the remains of roast fowl or game would mix up a paste of mustard, butter, worchestershire sauce and chutney, slater it on the disjointed leftover carcass and grill it. Mixing a little of the mustard paste into leftover heated gravy and pouring it over the Deviled Bones made a triumph out of a rerun.
As a result of England's longstanding involvement with India, chutneys and spicy sauces such as worchestershire sauch have been staples of English cupboards for a long time. Worcestershire, said to have been discovered in India by Sir Marcus Sandys of Worcestershire, is the ost notable.
The art of chutney making, also learned in India, gave the English of pre-refrigeration days a means of preserving local summer produce to enhance winter meals and fend off scurvy. Mustard and mustard sauces have long been common on English tables.
To adapt this old tradition to a modern turkey, use drumsticks, wings and thigh joints that might have had some of the meat sliced off. Prepare the paste as directed and rub it into the meat. While the meat is cooking, reheat the leftover gravy, combined with a little of the mustard-chutney paste and serve with the Deviled Bones.
This recipe is also very good with leftover leg of lamb, roast beef, pork roast or chicken. You don't really need bones. Think slices of left-over meat also get a second lease on taste when enhanced with the mustard-chutney paste. This recipe can be doubled or tripled depending on the extent of your leftovers. DEVELED BONES
4 heaping tablespoons unsalted butter
1 heaping tablespoon flour
1 teaspoon dry mustard
1 teaspoon dijon mustard
1 tablespoon chutney
1 tablespoon worchestershire sauce
2 leftover turkey leg, wing or thigh pieces
1 cup gravy
For the sauce, mash the butter and flour together on a plate. Work in the dry mustard, dijon mustard, chutney and worchestershire sauce. The paste should be fairly firm; if it is too thin, work in a little more flour, so that it is easily spreadable. Set aside about 1 tablespoon of the mixture for the gravy and rub the rest all over the bones.
Broil or grill the bones 4 or 5 inches from the flame, turning oven, until the meat is heated through the nicely browned and crusty on the outside.
While the bones are grilling, heat the gravy and stir in the rest of the mustard-chutney mixture. Bring to a boil, stirring constantly and allow to boil 1 minute. Pour the gravy around the Deviled Bones and serve.