People who are up on their soda fountain trivia know that milkshakes are also known as frosteds (the latter being an old-fashioned term favored by purists). They also know that malted milks (or a "malted" for short) are milkshakes with malt added for extra flavor.

Beyond the terminology, however, there aren't any rigid rules or recipes to follow when it comes to making milkshakes. Even in the old corner soda fountains in deepest Brooklyn, where the milkshake once was king and is still regally regarded, milk, ice cream and flavoring are combined in a stainless steel container and stirred up with a milkshake machine.

Home cooks can accomplish the same thing using a blender or a food processor. (The final product need not be perfectly smooth; in fact, some say it's a good idea to leave a few lumps.)

There are a few optional serving and drinking rituals. Milkshakes are best served in tall, clear glasses (never frosted or colored, and never, ever crystal). They are said to taste best when sipped through a straw.

If you choose not to use a straw, however, you must work casually but deliberately to leave a residual mustache on your upper lip after each sip.

LIP-LICKINGLY WONDERFUL SWEET WHITE CHOCOLATE SHAKE (Makes 1 large shake)

6 ounces white chocolate

1/2 cup milk

8 ounces fine quality vanilla ice cream

Break the chocolate into a dozen or so pieces and place in the top of a double boiler. Heat over simmering water until chocolate is just melted. Remove from the heat and with a wire whisk, beat the milk into the chocolate until liquid is smooth. Place the ice cream and chocolate mixture in the canister of a milkshake machine, or in a blender jar, and spin until a basically lump-free shake forms.

To make a malted, add 2 heaping teaspoons of instant powdered malt to the shake before blending.

A GREAT CHOCOLATE MILKSHAKE YOU CAN SINK YOUR TEETH INTO (Makes 1 large shake)

8 ounces fine quality chocolate ice cream

1 cup chocolate milk

Combine the ice cream and milk in the canister of a milkshake machine or jar of a blender and spin until a basically lump-free shake forms.

To make a malted, add 2 heaping teaspoons of instant powdered malt to the shake before blending.