DINNER TONIGHT

Chicken With Sherry Vinegar-Brown Sugar Barbecue Baste

(8 servings)

Whatever happened to good old chicken parts? Sure, we love boneless, skinless chicken breasts, but for grilling, we prefer bone-in, skin-on chicken--and bring on the dark meat!

We found this recipe in "Bobby Flay's Boy Meets Grill" (Hyperion, $29.95). A New York chef and restaurant owner who also appears on cable TV's Food Network, Flay is known for his inventive Spanish and Southwestern- accented cooking. Here Flay uses butterflied chickens for his grill, but we've substituted the more readily available, less labor-intensive chicken pieces--pick your favorite--for this recipe.

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 shallots, coarsely chopped

4 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped

1 cup sherry vinegar

1/4 cup dark brown sugar

6 plum tomatoes, coarsely chopped

1 1/2 cups low-sodium chicken broth

1 tablespoon paprika or cayenne pepper

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

To finish:

6 pounds chicken pieces, skin-on and bone-in

1/4 cup olive oil

Heat the olive oil in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat until almost smoking. Add the shallots and garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, until they soften, 4 to 5 minutes. Add the vinegar and reduce the mixture by half. Add the brown sugar, tomatoes, broth and paprika, stir and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium and simmer for 20 minutes, stirring occasionally.

Transfer the mixture to a food processor and blend until smooth. Return the mixture to a clean medium saucepan and cook over low heat, stirring occasionally, until thickened, 15 to 20 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Cool the mixture to room temperature. (Mixture may be refrigerated, covered, for up to 3 days; use at room temperature.) Makes 2 to 2 1/2 cups.

To finish: Preheat a grill on high.

Lightly brush both sides of the chicken with some of the olive oil and season with salt and pepper to taste. Grill, skin-side facing the heat, without turning, until the skin is golden brown and crisp, 4 to 5 minutes. Turn and continue to grill until cooked through, 15 to 20 minutes, turning occasionally and basting with the barbecue sauce every 3 minutes.

Place the chicken on a large platter and serve.

Per serving (with skin): 571 calories, 76 gm protein, 7 gm carbohydrates, 26 gm fat, 298 mg cholesterol, 7 gm saturated fat, 510 mg sodium, trace dietary fiber

To Do

SATURDAY: Book signing with "Cooking at Home With a Four-Star Chef" author Jean-Georges Vongerichten at Sutton Place Gourmet stores. Free. 11 a.m.-1 p.m., 10323 Old Georgetown Rd., Bethesda; call 301-564-3100. Also 1:30-3 p.m., 3201 New Mexico Ave. NW.; call 202-363-5800.

SATURDAY-SUNDAY: Vintage Virginia '99--wine festival featuring tastings from 40 vineyards and 30 restaurants. $16 in advance ($13 for designated drivers); $20 at the gate ($16). 11 a.m.-6 p.m. Great Meadow Field Events Center, The Plains, call 1-800-277-CORK or www.vintagevirginia.com.

SUNDAY: Cake and pastry-decorating demonstration featuring ideas for Father's Day and graduation. Free. 1-3 p.m. Bloomingdale's, White Flint Mall, 11305 Rockville Pike, Kensington. Call 301-984-4561.

TUESDAY: Chablis dinner with chef Brian McBride at the Park Hyatt Hotel. $75. 7 p.m. 24th and M streets NW. Call 202-223-1700.

Add this Web site to your bookmarks:

www.toaster.org

The Toaster Museum began as a humble art gallery/cafe in Seattle in the late 1980s that served toast with a twist: Bread and toppings were brought to the tables, each set with a different model of toaster. Now the utterly charming toaster collection is online, spanning the 1900s (the first pop-up toaster arrived in 1926) and the Toaster Museum Foundation proclaims the small appliance as a 20th-century artifact.

What makes people get out of bed and in line early on a Saturday morning? It's pastry chef Jill Light's baked goods. She's wowing the crowds at the Alexandria Farmers' Market (301 King St., in front of city hall). There's her lemon tart ($13.50)--a layer of lemon curd, topped with a lusciously light lemon mousse. Don't pass on the Chocolate Decadent Tart ($17.99)--a fudgy brownielike pie with a striking kaleidoscopic topping. But we think the real draw is Light's quiches. It's hard to top her quiche Lorraine ($13.50), with its slow-cooked sweet onions and hickory bacon. Vegetarians will go for the garden veggie version ($13.50). Order ahead, the market is open 5 to 10 a.m. on Saturdays, but Light sells out early. Jilly's Cake Studio, 703-780-4200.

An Icy Turn In McLean

Snow in June? Yes, right in the heart of McLean on Chain Bridge Road. The Snowie snowball kiosk, which opened only three weeks ago, has already attracted a crowd of snowball lovers who line up for the cooling concoctions of shaved ice and flavored sugar syrups.

Owner Marwan Mohey-El-Dien got the idea for the stand from his wife, Laura. A native of Louisiana, she loved the snowballs she used to enjoy back home. But, except for finding them at the occasional fair, she found snowballs hard to come by in this area. Then, after a fire at their McLean home, Mohey-El-Dien was looking for a way to show thanks to the local volunteer fire department. A snowball stand seemed like a good way to raise some money and satisfy his wife's craving at the same time. He worked with a concession-stand company to design the kiosk, asking for something futuristic and cute. The result is a self-contained stand, shown above, with running hot water, air conditioning, heat and its own generator.

Mohey-El-Dien plans to donate 30 percent to 35 percent of his profits to the Fairfax County volunteer fire department. Three sizes are offered: kiddie ($1), medium ($2) and jumbo ($3) and dozens of flavors. But Mohey-El-Dien has a warning about the biggest size. "I don't know a lot of people who can finish the jumbo, except, of course, my wife."

The stand, at 1454 Chain Bridge Road in the Giant Someplace Special parking lot, is open from 3 to 9 p.m. every day and will be open from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. as soon as Fairfax County schools let out for the summer.

CAPTION: Gigi Thompson, left, visits the snowball kiosk of Marwan Mohey-El-Dien, center.