THE BOOK AND AUTHOR: "Weber's Art of the Grill," by Jamie Purviance. Ken Winchester, managing editor. Forget hot dogs and beer and barbecued chicken. Departing from its basic backyard philosophy, the Weber team developed this book for people who entertain a lot, eat out at fine restaurants and want to replicate that kind of food at home.

PUBLISHER AND PRICE: Chronicle Books, $35 in bookstores or, included in the $3,500 cost of the Red River Summit 450 Series Grill by Weber, exclusive to Neiman Marcus. Currently on view in the District store's men's department--the one at Tysons Galleria has already sold--the grill can be ordered at either branch. (You get the book with the $4,000 model too.)

FORMAT: Recipes with color photographs? Of course. Dishes that run the gamut from a smoky Baba Ghanoush starter to a very current Halibut with Tomato-Tarragon Cream Sauce to a handful of tempting non-grill desserts? That too. But, just in case the prospective cook is new to grilling or pairing wine with foods, there is guidance on techniques, tools, sauces and ideas for three-course menus. The meticulous recipes are not hard to follow, but they're not speedy either. And you do have to plan ahead.


WHO WOULD USE THIS BOOK: If you want to master a repertoire of stylish dishes that will impress your family and friends, this is a good resource. Even if you're not a master chef, if you take the time to read and follow the recipes, and if your kitchen is pretty well stocked with saucepans and skewers and such, and if you take cues from the plate presentations in the photographs, you'll be able to fool your guests.

Steak and Tomato Kabobs With Avocado Cream

(6 to 8 skewers)

If you like [spicy] guacamole, you'll recognize some of its addictive flavors in this recipe. Most of the heat and spice come from the well-seasoned meat, while the avocado cream plays a cool and creamy supporting role. The tomatoes cook just long enough to break down and release their juices. (From the Meats chapter.)

For the rub:

1 teaspoon minced garlic

1 teaspoon dry mustard

2 teaspoons kosher salt

1 teaspoon chili powder

1/2 teaspoon paprika

1/2 teaspoon ground coriander

1/2 teaspoon ground cumin

For the sauce:

1 small avocado

2-inch piece seedless cucumber, diced (or use a 2-inch piece standard cucumber, peeled and seeds removed)

1/4 cup sour cream

1/4 cup thinly sliced scallions, tough green tops removed

1/4 cup chopped fresh dill

3 or 4 dashes hot pepper sauce, such as Tabasco

Juice of 1 lime

1/4 cup water

Kosher salt to taste

2 pounds top sirloin steak

18 to 24 cherry tomatoes

Vegetable oil

8 metal skewers (or wooden skewers soaked in water for 30 minutes)

For the dry rub: In a medium bowl, mix together the garlic, mustard, salt, chili powder, paprika, coriander and cumin.

For the sauce: Pit and peel the avocado and place in a food processor or blender. Add the cucumber, sour cream, scallions, dill, hot pepper sauce, lime juice and water and puree until smooth. Salt to taste. Pour the sauce into a small bowl, cover and refrigerate until ready to use. (May be made up to 1 day ahead.) Bring to room temperature before serving.

Preheat the grill on medium. Cut the beef into 1 1/2-inch pieces. Place them in a medium bowl and coat with the dry rub. Thread 3 or 4 pieces of beef and 3 tomatoes onto each skewer, alternating the pieces of beef with the tomatoes.

Brush the cooking grate with vegetable oil. Grill the kabobs directly over medium heat, turning once, for 7 to 8 minutes total. The skin of the tomatoes should be lightly charred and starting to slip off.

Serve warm with the avocado sauce.

Per serving (based on 8): 301 calories, 23 gm protein, 5 gm carbohydrates, 21 gm fat, 79 mg cholesterol, 8 gm saturated fat, 369 mg sodium, 2 gm dietary fiber

Citrus-Glazed Pork Tenderloin

(4 servings)

Pork tenderloin is favored by grillers because it is so easy to move around the grill and it cooks quickly. When marinated in a somewhat sweet-and-spicy mixture, such as this one, its expansive surface area takes on robust flavors and a glistening glaze. (From the Meats chapter.)

2 tablespoons ketchup

2 tablespoons hoisin sauce

1 tablespoon rice wine vinegar

2 teaspoons grated orange zest

1 teaspoon hot chili sauce

1 teaspoon dark sesame oil

1 1/2 teaspoons soy sauce

1 1/2 teaspoons curry powder

2 pork tenderloins, 3/4 to 1 pound each

Vegetable oil

In a medium bowl, whisk together the ketchup, hoisin sauce, vinegar, orange zest, chili sauce, sesame oil, soy sauce and curry. Add the tenderloins and turn to coat on all sides. Cover and refrigerate for 3 hours or overnight.

Lightly brush the cooking grate with oil. Remove the tenderloins from the marinade, wiping off most of the marinade, and grill indirectly over medium heat, turning once, until the center is barely pink (the internal temperature should be 155 to 160 degrees), 20 to 30 minutes.

Remove the tenderloins from the grill and carve into thick slices. Serve warm.

Per serving: 294 calories, 54 gm protein, 2 gm carbohydrates, 6 gm fat, 134 mg cholesterol, 2 gm saturated fat, 208 mg sodium, trace dietary fiber

Halibut With Tomato-Tarragon Cream Sauce

(4 servings)

The concentrated flavors of grilled tomatoes and onions plus the punch of sun-dried tomatoes impart a robust character to this simple sauce. A little goes a long way to perk up a mild-tasting fish like halibut. Be careful not to overcook the fish; it is rather lean and dries out easily. (From the Fish & Seafood chapter.)

For the sauce:

1/2 yellow onion

3 plum tomatoes

1 tablespoon olive oil

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

3 sun-dried tomatoes (not oil-packed)

1/2 cup boiling water

1/4 cup heavy (whipping) cream

1 tablespoon sherry vinegar or white wine vinegar

1 tablespoon roughly chopped fresh tarragon

For the halibut:

Four 7- to 8-ounce halibut fillets

2 tablespoons olive oil

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Preheat a grill or broiler on medium.

For the sauce: Cut the onion crosswise into 1/2-inch slices. Core the plum tomatoes, remove seeds and cut them crosswise into 1/2-inch slices. Brush both sides of the onion and tomato slices with the oil and season with salt and pepper. Grill the onion and tomato slices in a grill basket directly over the heat, turning once, until soft. The onions need 12 to 14 minutes, the tomatoes 9 to 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, place the sun-dried tomatoes in a bowl and add the boiling water. Set aside for 15 minutes. Transfer the tomatoes to a food processor or blender; reserve the soaking water. Add the grilled onions and tomatoes to the food processor and blend. With the processor running, add the cream, vinegar and tarragon. Add enough of the reserved water to make a smooth sauce. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Transfer the sauce to a small saucepan over low heat and keep warm.

For the halibut: Brush the halibut with the oil and season with salt and pepper to taste. Grill the halibut fillets directly over the heat, turning once, until the fish just begins to flake when tested with a fork, about 8 minutes total.

Per serving: 377 calories, 49 gm protein, 7 gm carbohydrates, 16 gm fat, 93 mg cholesterol, 5 gm saturated fat, 283 mg sodium, 1 gm dietary fiber

Garlic-Roasted Potatoes on Rosemary Skewers

(4 to 6 servings)

Skewers fashioned from sturdy rosemary branches add a subtle flavor to this simple dish, and make for a notable presentation. Balsamic vinegar and olive oil lend an appealing bite. If rosemary is unavailable, bamboo skewers can be substituted. Soak them in water for at least 30 minutes beforehand. (From the Sides & Salads chapter.)

1 pound red or white new potatoes, each about 1 1/2 inches in diameter

About 1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon minced garlic

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

6 sturdy rosemary branches

1/3 cup balsamic vinegar

Preheat the grill on medium.

Cut the potatoes in half and place in a medium bowl. Add 2 tablespoons of the olive oil and the garlic; season with the salt and pepper to taste. Toss to combine.

Strip almost all of the leaves from the rosemary branches, leaving some leaves near the slightly thinner end, to form skewers. Finely chop enough of the stripped leaves to measure 2 tablespoons; add them to the potatoes and toss again to coat the potatoes thoroughly.

Using the thicker end of each rosemary skewer as a point, thread the potato halves onto the skewers, dividing them evenly among the skewers.

Grill the skewers directly over the heat until the skins begin to brown and crisp, 25 to 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, pour the balsamic vinegar into a small saute pan over high heat and boil until it is syrupy and reduced to about 2 tablespoons, about 4 minutes. Pour enough of the remaining olive oil onto a serving platter to form a thin layer. Sprinkle the oil with salt and pepper to taste. Drizzle the warm vinegar over the oil. Place the skewers on the platter, turning the potatoes in the oil and vinegar and serve immediately.

Per serving (based on 6): 110 calories, 2 gm protein, 16 gm carbohydrates, 5 gm fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 1 gm saturated fat, 103 mg sodium, 1 gm dietary fiber