Call it yet another chapter in the changing needs of the downtown diner. Chang-Wook Chon, owner of Sizzling Express, the popular cafeteria-style breakfast/lunch restaurants at 1445 K St. NW and 1400 I St. NW, as well as a new breakfast, lunch and dinner operation with a full liquor and sushi bar at 600 Pennsylvania Ave. SE, has signed a lease on the space at 1150 Connecticut Ave. NW--the former home of the venerated restaurant Le Lion D'or. Plans call for a November opening. Go, Mr. Chon!

DINNER TONIGHT

Turkey Cutlets With Lemon Butter

(4 servings)

Cooking a l'anglaise usually refers to dipping a thin cutlet--fish, poultry or veal--in flour or bread crumbs, then in beaten egg prior to frying in hot oil. The batter keeps the meat or fish moist and, if the oil is hot enough, the batter absorbs very little oil.

We found this and many other informative techniques and tips--each with an accompanying recipe--in "Parisian Home Cooking" by Michael Roberts (William Morrow, $25).

2 large eggs

3 tablespoons canola or corn oil

2 tablespoons water

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

About 1/2 cup flour for dusting the turkey

Four 5-ounce turkey cutlets

4 tablespoons ( 1/2 stick) unsalted butter

2 tablespoons lemon juice

1 tablespoon finely chopped sage, fresh or dried

Preheat the oven to 200 degrees.

Using a fork or small whisk, lightly beat together the eggs, 1 tablespoon of the oil and the water in a wide-rimmed shallow bowl. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Place the flour in another bowl. Season the turkey with salt and pepper. Dust lightly with flour, shaking off the excess. Dip the cutlets in the egg mixture and let the excess egg run off.

In a large skillet over medium heat, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons of the oil and 2 tablespoons of the butter until the butter foams and then subsides. Add the cutlets 1 at a time, without crowding (in 2 batches, if necessary), and cook until golden on both sides, 6 to 7 minutes total. Remove the cutlets to a serving platter and keep warm in the preheated oven.

Melt the remaining 2 tablespoons butter in the skillet, add the lemon juice and sage, season with a pinch of salt and pepper and add any juices that may have collected around the turkey on the serving plate. Pour the sauce over the cutlets and serve immediately.

Per serving: 300 calories, 37 gm protein, 7 gm carbohydrates, 13 gm fat, 131 mg cholesterol, 5 gm saturated fat, 137 mg sodium, trace dietary fiber

To Do

THURSDAY: Book signing and reading with Phyllis Richman, author of "Murder on the Gravy Train" and restaurant reviewer at The Washington Post, at Politics and Prose. Free. 7 p.m. 5015 Connecticut Ave. NW. Call 202-364-1919.

FRIDAY: Introduction to Wine--first in a six-class series with Rob Stewart. $40 per class. 7:30-9:30 p.m. Arlington Hilton, 950 N. Stafford St., Arlington. Call 703-685-7970.

TUESDAY: Avellino wine dinner at Pulcinella Restaurant. $59.95 includes tax and tip. 7 p.m. 6852 Old Dominion Dr., McLean. Call 703-893-7777.

RESERVE NOW:

JULY 28: New Zealand wine dinner at the Stardust Restaurant. $80 includes tax and tip. 7 p.m. 608 Montgomery St., Alexandria. Call 703-548-9864.

JULY 28: Light and Simple Summer Desserts--cooking demonstration with Uptown Bakers' chef John London at Fresh Fields. $25. 7 p.m. 2700 Wilson Blvd., Arlington. Call 703-527-6596.

JULY 28: Summer Tasting--wine dinner at Clyde's of Tysons Corner. Guest lecturer: Washington Post wine columnist Michael Franz. $45 includes tax and tip. 6:30-9 p.m. 8332 Leesburg Pike, Vienna. Call 703-734-1901 or www.clydes.com.

July 30: Beer tasting including buffet, lecture and auction at the Austrian Embassy. Benefits the Good Knight Child Empowerment Network. $35 in advance. 7-10 p.m. 3524 International Ct. NW. Call 301-595-8989.

Think you've tried every potato chip out there? Here's something different--thick-cut chips fried in olive oil and flavored with rosemary and sea salt. They're addictive. They're also on the pricey side. A 5-ounce bag of Olive Oil Potato Chips sells for $3 to $4. Chips from the Olive Oil company are also available in lemon, cracked pepper and sea salt-only versions. At Fresh Fields, Williams-Sonoma and many convenience stores.

When it comes to great-tasting salmon, wild members of the species are preferable to farm raised. Confined to a tank or cage, farm-raised salmon feed on a prepared meal made of fish, shrimp and herring. Farm-raised fish are good. But meanwhile their wild brothers and sisters are dining on natural crustaceans. And what salmon eat has an influence on how they taste. Beautiful, deep-red wild salmon from the Pacific Northwest and Alaska are available in many supermarkets and fish stores this time of year. Also for the next four to five weeks buttery, mild and delicious wild Icelandic salmon will be available at Fresh Fields stores (per pound $9.99 whole, $12.99 for steaks, $13.99 for fillets). It's on the menu at Kinkead's, 2000 Pennsylvania Ave. NW (call 202-296-7700); Restaurant Nora, 2132 Florida Ave., NW (call 202-462-5143) and L'Auberge Chez Francois, 332 Springfield Rd., Great Falls (call 703-759-3800).

Add this Web site to your bookmarks:

www.scoreone.com

Kids home from camp already? While the kitchen may be an area you usually steer clear of with your children, this site's kids' kitchen offers several recipes (sent in by children) and safe cooking activities for your "Kings of the Kitchen." With recipes titled Green Eggs and Ham and Puppy Chow, your kids will be entertained for hours. Take note, though, that some recipes call for an adventurous spirit and some extra clean-up.

--Erin Crahan Nagle